Cheap leather suits

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Cheap leather suits
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Cheap leather suits

Cheap leather suits
Inexpensive station wagons

Leather suits at bargain prices. But what if you skid and there is a risk of painful contact with the asphalt? MOTORRAD has taken a close look at five cheap two-piece models, says what you can get for more money and gives tips for a successful purchase.

Jorg Lohse

03/29/2007

In the past, it is said, the navy used to oblige non-swimmers on warships. Because they are more willing to defend themselves. A more than questionable tactic. Transferring this to a motorcycle would mean riding without protective clothing so as not to fall over for fear of the consequences of a fall. Absurd.

So much in advance: Any of the leather combinations tested here from the low-budget class for 270 to 420 euros is better than the popular jeans-and-kidney belt combination. But it is also clear that these station wagons cannot compete with the suits that Dottore Rossi and colleagues wear on the racetrack and cost more than four times as much. Nevertheless, one thing applies equally to both extremes: They are first and foremost protective suits that motorcyclists have to be able to rely on in the worst case scenario. The seams must hold in the event of a fall, the leather must not drag through or even tear completely, and the protectors should avoid painful bone fractures.
But does the leather suit actually keep what is commonly expected of it? Insiders have been observing for a long time that the skin-tight dress is degenerating into a fashion item. The leather suit as a pure protective suit ?? that was once upon a time (see interview, page 82). A weak point of particularly cheap offers is of course the quality of the material: the use of fast-tearing split leather with lousy abrasion behavior, the lack of safety seams, and poorly positioned or slipping protectors. Problems can even arise with reputable brands. If, for example, cheap counterfeits are used instead of high-quality branded zippers.
Industry insiders openly admit that many difficulties are related to the popular production locations in the Far East: »What do you want to do when the container with your ordered goods is in the yard and the cutting specifications for 5000 station wagons have not been adhered to? Or the leather is not of the desired quality? «Many defects could be remedied with permanent quality control on site, but this is practically impossible.
Particularly annoying is the fact that the consumer usually cannot understand which country the goods come from. Because despite the legal obligation, the country of manufacture is always missing, especially in the case of cheap combinations. And many salespeople can only answer that question with a shrug.
The well-known manufacturers of motorcycle protective clothing are still sticking to the production location in Europe. But it is only a matter of time before, after the first eastward expansion in the direction of Romania or Ukraine, distant China will also become the first address for the upper-class brands.
For many cheap labels, going to the Far East has been customary for decades. The proportion of manual work on a leather suit is high, so these costs must be kept down if you want to keep up in the low-budget area. In addition to China, the neighboring country of Pakistan has established itself as a second location for leather production. While the manufacturing quality in the Middle Kingdom is now at an acceptable level, clear cuts have to be made with the goods from Pakistan. This applies to the material used as well as the quality of workmanship.
Basically, however, the entire textile industry in South Asia is increasingly being talked about. Critical voices are increasing, denouncing the wage structure, the handling of environmental and energy resources or occupational safety in the factories. There are often terrible reports here. As a result of construction defects and ailing technology, dozens of workers die every year, mostly women, whose share in the textile industry in countries like Bangladesh or Pakistan makes up around 90 percent. The now overused word of sustainability? it has not yet found its way into the clothing industry in Asia.
In connection with the changed age structure of motorcyclists, however, some well-known manufacturers from Germany see this as their great opportunity. The aged Easy Rider ?? so the assumption ?? exhibits different consumption habits. For him, “sustainability” is becoming more important. This clientele attaches little importance to cheap disposable goods, also due to bad experiences in the past. She asks herself and increasingly also the seller critical questions: What happens if the zipper gives up the ghost after three years? Can the station wagon even be repaired after a slip? In such a cost-benefit balance, many a cheap bargain turns out to be an expensive overall package in retrospect.
The fact is: A large part of the leather suits on sale in Germany come from low-wage sewing factories via mighty container ships into the shops. And what is sold is what has proven itself over the years. You are now looking for real innovations in vain. In direct comparison with protective suits made of synthetic fibers, which always come up with new highlights, the leather suits can only set few accents. The animal skin still has a huge advantage: In terms of abrasion resistance, it ranks unchanged in pole position. Only very elaborately constructed textile suits now come close to the protective function of leather equipment. But the lead will continue to melt when product development in the leather industry gives less and less gas or allows itself to be carried away into questionable constructions under enormous price pressure (see box on the right).
Improvements are urgently needed. A major point of attack is and remains the all-weather suitability. In this regard, textile is far superior to leather. Leather suits can and must catch up here. The first steps were taken several years ago with waterproof and breathable leather suits, but no further expansion has been made so far. Commendable and worthwhile approaches like Dainese’s have disappeared back into the drawer. BMW has had the waterproof leather suit »Atlantis« with a retrofittable Gore-Tex membrane in its range for years. Unfortunately, there is not much more to find in the various ranges. Observers of the scene report of new projects that are simmering in the development kitchens of well-known outfitters in the industry. The concrete implementation in commercial goods, however, has not yet taken place.
Another step was to use a specially tanned leather that does not heat up as much when exposed to sunlight. With some success: the so-called “Cool Leather” (see also MOTORRAD 20/2006) is now available as an equipment feature for some brands. The bottom line is that there are ideas, but what is missing is the courageous and large-scale implementation.
Those interested in buying leather suits are definitely advised not to commit to a specific price region in advance. Quite the opposite: Be brave and after a € 400 combination slip into one for € 1,400. You will be amazed how much the fit can differ despite the same size. And if you already deal with intermediate sizes in normal life, we recommend going to a bespoke tailor anyway. You don’t have to order the entire full-size regalia, sometimes even small changes to a standard off-the-shelf station wagon are enough (see box “Upgrade” on page 86). Such work is quite affordable with prices of less than 100 euros. And there is one more thing that we would like to recommend to you as a critical consumer: Question all the information that is given to you on the patch or package insert. Only the info card of the FLM-Kombi was really convincing in this test. Everything that the buyer needs to know was clearly and unambiguously listed on it. Unfortunately, there were also a number of misleading information. For example, on the Modeka station wagon, a patch on the back pocket suggested the presence of a CE-approved protector. Inside, however, there was only a thin cushion, which at best was suitable as a sleeve-friendly pad for the desk. Even with the supposedly cheapest purchase, one shouldn’t forget: It’s about your skin!

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BuSE SEPANG

Provider: Buse, phone 02471/12690, www.buese.com
Price: from 399.95 euros
Materials: cowhide, nylon stretch inserts, polyester mesh lining
Sizes: men 48 to 60, women 36 to 42 *
Colors: black, black / red, black / orange, black / blue, black / yellow, black / green
Weight: 4.5 kilograms (size 52)
Special features: long connection zipper; Knee slider can be retrofitted

PLUS Except for carelessly applied lettering, very good workmanship; non-slip, comfortable leather; soft, supple collar finish; high quality protector equipment; Double layer of leather on the fall zones
MINUS sharp-edged connection zipper made of metal; no reflectors; Press shoulder protectors; Elbows cut too wide, protectors slip easily; Knee area too voluminous, wrinkles, cuts into hollow of knee; Knee protector pockets not attached to the leather; In the case of sporty posture, annoying bulge in the back plus wrinkles on the stomach
CONCLUSION Acceptable touring combination, but it cannot clearly set itself apart from the competition’s approximately 100 euros cheaper combination. The high-quality protectors are great, but they are positioned too carelessly

-VERDICT:
SATISFYING

CORAX BLACK TRACK

Provider: Two Wheel Distribution, Telephone 07145/93620, www.corax-online.de
Price: 299.90 euros
Materials: cowhide, nylon stretch inserts, polyester mesh lining
Sizes: men 48 to 58
Color: Black
Weight: 4.0 kg (size 52)
Special features: long connection zipper; windproof backed perforation; Knee slider can be retrofitted

PLUS Supple, good-quality leather; very easy; Reflectors; good protection equipment including hip protectors; many easily accessible pockets; effective ventilation zips in the chest area and pleasant-looking perforation; very good zipper equipment; doubled leather on the fall zones
MINUS Extremely slippery seat, therefore very poor grip on the motorcycle; Collar is wide apart; Upper arms too long, forearms too short and too tight, jacket tightly constricts in the crook of the arm; Armpit area cuts in severely; Zipper presses on calf; Protector pockets not optimally placed and fixed
CONCLUSION Good leather, good protectors. But unfortunately the individual elements were not put together in the same quality. Not convincing in terms of fit and comfort

-VERDICT:
SATISFYING

FLM STREAM

Provider: Polo express delivery, phone 0180/5225785, www.polo-motorrad.de
Price: from 269.90 to 309.90 euros *
Materials: cowhide, polyamide stretch inserts, polyester mesh lining
Sizes **: men 48 to 60, women 34 to 42 **
Colors: black, red, blue
Weight: 4.0 kg (size 52)
Special features: long and short connection zipper

PLUS Grippy leather with a very attractive finish; pressure-free fitted protectors; very good grip on the motorcycle; comfortable only with an upright, touristy posture; neatly stitched safety seams; Exemplarily designed booklet with detailed information; Double layer of leather on the fall zones
MINUS antiquated hard foam protectors; little abrasion-resistant stretch fabric in important fall zones; overall too tough and immobile for a sporty gait; limp Velcro fasteners; very hooked zippers
CONCLUSION In this price range, a beautifully crafted leather combination that goes particularly well with comfortable touring motorcycles. In terms of protector equipment, the station wagon should increase significantly

-VERDICT:
SATISFYING

MODEKA SPEEDTEC

Provider: Beckumer Leder-Bekleidungswerk, Telephone 02521/850316, www.modeka.de
Price: 420 euros
Materials: cowhide, Kevlar and nylon stretch inserts, polyester mesh lining
Sizes: men 48 to 58, women 36 to 44
Colors: black / silver, black / blue
Weight: 4.9 kilograms (size 52)
Special features: connecting zipper in two lengths; Knee slider can be retrofitted

PLUS doubling of material in the fall zones; Reflectors; Abrasion-resistant stretch inserts made of Keprotec except for the calf area; many pockets; effective leather stretch in the hip area
MINUS Corset-like, extremely constricting wearing comfort, presses on the stomach, tightens the back; strong wrinkling; Overall, the cut and length proportions were not very successful, some of the seams were drawn very sloppily; annoying press studs on the sleeves; all test suits equipped without protectors
CONCLUSION Not very convincing combination in patchwork design. The fit is poor, the seams are not very convincing. Particularly annoying: The protectors were missing in all test suits. According to the manufacturer, it was an oversight

-VERDICT:
INADEQUATE

PROBIKER SPORTS

Provider: Detlev Louis, Telephone 040/73419360, www.louis.de
Price: 299.90 euros
Materials: cowhide, nylon stretch inserts, polyester mesh lining
Sizes: men 48 to 58
Colors: black / silver, black / blue, black / red
Weight: 4.6 kg (size 52)
Special features: long connection zipper; Knee slider can be retrofitted

PLUS supple fitting; conveys a very good feeling of contact with the motorcycle; very comfortable and pressure-free in the calf area, very good protector package; Reflex inserts; effective ventilation zips on the front and back; Doubled leather on the fall zones; very good workmanship with good seams; very good zippers
MINUS Little abrasion-resistant textile stretch on the fall zones; Knee protectors not attached to the leather; Elbow protectors can twist away if the cut is too wide
CONCLUSION Good complete package at a good price. In terms of workmanship, fit and features, the combination by Louis is definitely recommended. There is still room for improvement when it comes to details such as the cutting of the sleeves or the use of materials in the suit

-VERDICT:
SATISFYING

On the test bench – IMPACTED

The good news first: There are no real failures in this test. Only the elbow protector from the FLM-Kombi is marginal with 35.6 kilonewtons (kN) of residual force. In order to assess the quality of the protectors, MOTORRAD commissioned TuV Rheinland to determine the residual energy based on the EN 1621-1 standard by a total of three blows in different zones of the protectors (center, middle ring, edge area). In this impact test, a five-kilo falling body hits the protector from a height of one meter. Sensors record the residual forces, which on average must not exceed 35 kN (no single impact over 50 kN). The mean values ​​are listed in the table below.
Although the protectors are within the permitted range with the exception mentioned, it is still evident that new developments in this sector can impress with particularly good results. Above all, the latest generation of protectors from Sas-Tec (used in the Buse and Probiker combination, among others) achieves results that make the limit value, which is now ten years old, a long way off. In some cases, it even meets the much stricter requirements for back protectors (maximum 18 kN).
More than half of the five test combinations were already equipped with soft foam protectors. Only Polo equips its FLM combination with hard foam protectors made of EPS (known under the trade name Styrofoam). In addition to the better shock absorption values, the graphic shows another advantage of the soft foam protectors compared to their hard foam counterparts: Instead of a rapid, steep increase in force, they can better distribute the acting force over time and avoid high force peaks.

Cheap combinations at the professional cutter – SHEAR FORCES

Stefan Rottger approaches the station wagon with small nail scissors. The seam is torn from the outside within seconds: »Imagine dragging across the asphalt after a fall. In that case the thread is gone much faster! ”Then he unfolds the leather. The second seam is already exposed, and this is also no problem for the nail scissors. Suddenly the leg opens up over the entire length. Rott-ger calls pseudo-safety seams something like this, and they can be found again and again in low-priced leather suits. “The seams,” the Saarlander lectures, “are the be-all and end-all of a leather suit: What use is the 1.2 millimeter thick layer of leather if the 0.2 millimeter thin thread breaks down immediately when you fall?”
Accurately drawn safety seams prove elsewhere that things can be done differently in this price league. The scissors don’t stand a chance here, and even in a real case, plenty of leather would have to fall by the wayside before the first of two seams becomes dangerous. Light and shadow are close together. In terms of seam quality, in the opinion of the leather tailor, who specializes in the repair of lintel suits, all cheap suits have to be overhauled either fundamentally or at least in some areas.
Another problem is incorrect cuts or length proportions. Especially in the sleeve area around the elbow protectors, the size does not fit. As a result, bulges form and the leather cuts uncomfortably in the crooks of the arm. In the event of a fall, there is also the risk that the protectors twist and can hardly protect. The bottom line is that Rottger does not see a perfectly successful cut in any of the test combinations. A shortcoming that could be quickly remedied with an ergonomically well thought-out pattern.
Another problem with low-budget station wagons is the quality of the material. The station wagons largely consist of many small, sewn together leather substitutes, remnants that are left over from a large skin. It can easily happen that some pieces are thinned out towards the edges and tear quickly. This is usually accompanied by simple stretch textile material, which is also not very resistant. The commercial red pencil clearly rules here. Because otherwise the price for these combinations would not be realizable. Rottger’s conclusion: »The station wagons have a narrow field of application. They are a clear case for beginners and of course always better than any pair of jeans. Experienced frequent drivers, on the other hand, should look in higher price regions. And despite some sporty looks: no two-piece suit is suitable for use on the racetrack.

Interview with leather expert – »AVICATION IS NOT COOL«

Stefan Rottger, 40, runs a leather workshop (www.skill-skin.com) in Heusweiler near Saarbrucken. His customers include professionals such as IDM pilot Andy Meklau and TV entertainer Stefan Raab (“Wok World Cup”). MOTORRAD spoke to the expert about the ideal leather combination.

What should a leather suit do in 2007??
The leather suit should be a protective suit. With low- and high-level station wagons, motorcyclists must be able to rely on the fact that injuries in the event of an accident will be limited as far as possible. However, this only works if the greatest care is taken in the processing and choice of materials with regard to the leather, the yarn, the protectors and their positioning.
That’s nothing new. What does a leather suit actually do??
Today we are at a point where 180 hp are a matter of course in a production motorcycle. If the level of leather protective clothing had risen in line with the technological development of motorcycles, we would have a very high safety standard today. In practice, however, gimmicks and design are predominantly the determining factor compared to security technology. Since the end of the nineties it has been observed that due to the highly competitive market, leather suits are degenerating into a pure fashion item. However, the interests of various producers should be directed towards the best possible protection? not on production cost minimization and marketing strategies.
What should the motorcyclist pay attention to when buying??
A leather suit should ?? if it is done well ?? sit like a second skin. It shouldn’t slack, but it shouldn’t be too tight either? comparable to a wetsuit.
Is a good leather suit a question of money??
It’s not necessarily a question of money, but rather a question of how it will be used. If there was a standard for this, it would be easier to decide whether to choose a low-level or high-level product. However, it should be clear to everyone that greed cannot be cool when it comes to avoiding injuries.

Fitting quality control – SHOPPING GUIDE

What to take: the most expensive product from a cheap label or an entry-level combination from a well-known brand for the same price? The fact is: the station wagon must always sit well on the motorcycle. But important points can also be checked in the store. If anything is unclear or product information is poor, ask the seller. If he just shrugs his shoulders helplessly, it is better to refrain from buying!

Zippers: A solid metal zipper is not yet a quality feature. Plastic-coated spiral zippers from YKK have proven particularly effective. Connection zippers should be sewn firmly into the leather

Seams: The fewer seams, the better. Because seams are the weak point in a fall. Even double quilting seams can be opened quickly. The thread of good, additionally quilted safety seams cannot be accessed from the outside

Protectors: High quality protectors must be well positioned. Make sure that the protective cushions fit snugly but without pressure. Protector pockets must not be loosely hung in the lining, but must be fixed to the leather

Leather: cheap suits look like a patchwork quilt, expensive ones look like a piece. The reason: Whole hides are expensive, which is why they are sewn together from leftovers. The quality of these pieces is sometimes very questionable

Inner lining: In expensive station wagons, the lining is removable and washable. In the case of low-budget leather, it is firmly sewn. When trying on it, check whether the lining is resilient. Are the seams cracking during the seat rehearsal? hands off

Stretch: Inexpensive suits have simple textile stretch, expensive ones are equipped with abrasion-resistant Kevlar stretch (inside with a yellow-black structure). Check whether the stretch can also be stretched in the right direction (across, not lengthways!)

Protectors in practice – CASE STUDIES

No question about it, the test bench values ​​are purely theoretical. And the forces that are measured would in any case overtax any human body. Just as a guide: 35 kilonewtons is the maximum permissible residual force that a protector can let through. A human bone breaks at six to nine kilonewtons. Above all, the test bench data help to typify the protectors and to make them comparable thanks to the reproducibility of the values.
MOTORRAD wanted to know more precisely and commissioned TuV Rheinland to measure selected protectors in addition to the test according to EN 1621-1 when installed. What are the benefits of leather, material doubling or additional foam padding on the outer skin?
The results show: Depending on the construction of the area around the protector, the residual force can be drastically reduced in some cases. As can be seen in the graphic, the force distribution can also be much more positive. When installed, a steep curve with a high force peak (protector solo) becomes a soft, gently rising wave. In order to provide really effective protection, the protector must not shift or twist in the event of a fall. Otherwise the bone is exposed, the forces can act almost unfiltered, a break is programmed. Our test combinations repeatedly showed weaknesses, especially on the arm (shoulder, elbow), but also in the knee area. And then even the good result in the service test has little value. Leather expert Stefan Rottger sums it up: »That would be the same as installing an airbag in the trunk. ??

Conclusion: cheap leather suits

Even if the recordings for knee sliders, which are available in all test suits with one exception, indicate something different: the low-budget leather is hardly suitable for real sports pilots. In this test, we could not find a supple suit, paired with a high degree of mobility and optimally fitting protectors. Riders of wiry sports bikes would be more likely to be hampered by these leather suits. The price range up to around 400 euros is recommended, especially for beginners on beginner-friendly bikes such as a Kawasaki ER-6 or Honda CBF 600.

More money, more leather? – UPGRADE

The price range for leather combinations is enormous. It ranges from just under 200 to 2000 euros. Does “more money” mean “more value”? MOTORRAD looked around in the upper price ranges and put together a selection from four different price categories.

600 euros: The well-known low-cost brands can only be found here occasionally. Polo costs 599.90 euros for the two-piece Evo 1, Buse offers the Donington sports suit for 699.95 euros, both including a CE-approved back protector. Entry-level offers from well-known brands such as Harro can be found in specialist retailers (www.harro.de). The Classic model shown above costs 669 euros. The colors of the timeless cut two-piece suit are freely selectable, a custom-made product is possible from 79 euros extra for three changes (full size 229 euros).
800 euros: the upper middle class of leather suits. The cut and wearing comfort are usually much more convincing than the entry-level combinations up to 400 euros. The quality of the materials used (leather, abrasion-resistant stretch inserts made of Kevlar) is usually higher. Ixs (www.ixs.com) offers the pictured Scream station wagon with aramid-reinforced textile inserts for 799 euros, Alpinestars is charging just under 900 euros for the pre-curved suit for racing. Annoying: a back protector is not yet standard.
1000 euros: The upper class of leather suits is firmly in Italian hands. The two-part Izalco combination (photo, 998 euros) by Dainese (www.dainese.com) has a number of features such as titanium inserts on the fall zones ?? Elements that come straight from racing. The Spidi racing suit R-Course Wind Pro (www.spidi.com) costs 1069 euros and can also be upgraded with a hydration system. And Arlen Ness (www.held-biker-fashion.de) puts himself in the limelight for around 1000 euros with a beef-kangaroo-leather mix.
1200 euros: From this sum, individually adapted leather combinations are available. The picture shows the DynaPro Tour 405 model from Erbo (www.erbo.de), which costs 1339 euros custom-made. Alne (www.alne-leder.de) has specialized for years in combinations of kangaroo leather (made to measure from around 1200 euros), and Schwabenleder (www.schwaben-leder.de) offers classic suits in addition to its well-known racing combinations (1129 euros plus customization from 99 euros) in the style of the legendary superbike era.

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