Table of contents
to travel
South America
South America
Patagonia Express
Patagonia. Vastness. Huge glaciers. Bizarre mountains. And dusty slopes on which hardly anyone is on the move. So there is plenty of room for adventure. And for a Christmas motorcycle meeting at the very end of the world.
Joachim Deleker
02/07/2000
Tempo 100. The speedometer needle of my Honda has been nailed down for hours. Far ahead of me, Birgit tries to reach the dead straight horizon with her BMW. I haven’t seen Andreas and his Yamaha in the rearview mirror for a long time. I don’t know how far behind us. Distances become irrelevant, everyone is alone with themselves and this vastness. Dark green, barely knee-high bushes and yellow grass as far as the eye can see. The Patagonian steppe doesn’t give hills a chance. Frayed clouds, driven by the eternal wind, chase nowhere. Birgit has tucked a list of Spanish words in her tank bag to pass the time. I’m looking for new thoughts and old songs. And stick with Udo Lindenberg’s “Behind the Horizon It Goes On”. A sign on the roadside promises variety: Peninsula Valdes. There are still 93 kilometers to the peninsula, which is now a unique animal paradise in spring. Countless right whales cavort in the protected bays to mate or to raise their calves. On the stony beaches we watch clumsy elephant seals, albatrosses glide over our heads and disappear outside between sky and sea without flapping their huge, three-meter-long wings. We are drawn further south. Towards Tierra del Fuego. The country hardly changes, but at Punta Tombo animals again provide variety: Magellanic penguins. Thousands upon thousands of funny birds populate the shore, and of course there is always something going on in this huge colony. Here a procession of black-and-white fellows waddles to the sea, a male trumpets for whoever, and another group of penguins stares after a skunk that hops frantically through the colony. The entertainment value is limitless, at some point we turn off Ruta 3 towards the west. Soon the horizon gets bumps, finally the first mountains appear. Heavy crosswinds try to push the enduros off the slopes. An annoying balancing act that only ends at the Bosque Petrificado, the petrified forest. Jose, the park attendant, stands grinning in the doorway of his wooden house. “Fresh breeze today.” Patagonian understatement. There would have been a storm warning on the North Sea long ago. The storm rioted all night, shaking the tin roof and shaking the shack. Nevertheless, we lace up our hiking boots early on because Jose sends us into the desert at sunrise. Bizarrely eroded mountains made of red, yellow and brown rock glow in intense colors in the first sunlight, they almost seem to burn. We walk for a long time through the valley with no vegetation. Tree trunks that are meter thick are lying around here ?? and has been for 70 million years. Huge volcanic eruptions have buried the araucaria forests. Over time, the trees petrified and were then slowly eroded from the ground again by storms and rain. When there is almost no wind, we climb over the stone pillars. Calm in Patagonia? “Stay calm,” advises Jose, “it doesn’t take long here.” Nevertheless, we saddle up the enduro bikes and set off for Ruta 40, the “Cuarenta”, as this legendary road is called. The Ruta Cuarenta is the western umbilical cord of Argentina. It winds 4660 kilometers, mostly more or less well gravel, from the Bolivian border down to the Strait of Magellan, which separates the mainland from the island of Tierra del Fuego. For hours we rumble through the dry steppe, meet three or four cars and two Japanese cyclists who also want to go to this end of the world. Along the Cuarenta, solitude is normal, every settlement becomes an attraction here. One of those places is Bajo Caracoles. 48 residents, including two teachers and eight students, police, post office, gas pump, shop, hotel and cafe. Everything a village needs. Bajo Caracoles lies in a depression that is densely overgrown with yellow Ichu grass. Brown mountains on the horizon prevent the view of the Andes, which we discover the next morning. The mountain range is still almost 150 kilometers away, and yet we can clearly see the celebrities among them: the granite towers Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. Dream destinations for extreme mountaineers from all over the world – the vertical, kilometer-high walls are decorated with the highest level of difficulty. Now the country is suddenly pulling out all the stops. The list of vocabulary in the tank bag is no longer of interest when we finally park the motorbikes right on the shores of Lake Argentino ?? and look at the five kilometers wide and up to 60 meters high edge of the Perito Moreno, one of the largest glaciers on the continent. This mass of ice captures us for a week, watching the glacier is more exciting than any crime thriller. The icy front cracks and crackles all the time, every now and then a block of ice slams into the water. We stare at church-tower-high ice formations that look so fragile, as if they were about to fall into the lake at any moment. We wait, but instead, a few kilometers further on, a large wall of ice with an imposing cloud of spray disappears in the floods. A crazy spectacle. Even if the Perito Moreno has gotten lazy. Ten years ago it was pushing its ice front almost a meter further every day. Today it no longer grows. A sign of global warming? We use the local warming to at least 22 degrees and drive back to the Cuarenta. Behind Calafate the windy and barren high plateau begins again. The stiff west wind has cleaned the sky bright, only a few white clouds are in a great hurry to come east. We keep against the wind, cross the Chilean border and patch Birgit’s BMW tires twice. Then it’s back to the mountains. But what for which: On the opposite bank of the jade-green Lago Pehoe, the vertical walls and pointed peaks of the Paine Mountains reach over 3000 meters high into the cloudless sky. We stand in front of a huge glacier again, camp right on the lake and at the foot of this world made of granite and ice, watch huge condors that use the updrafts to gain height, and sneak up to a few meters at guanacos that are growing eat through lush green meadows. Somehow everything is too perfect, too powerful, too beautiful? the breathtaking landscapes of the Torres del Paine National Park are highly addicting. After a week, we force ourselves to go into rehab. Tierra del Fuego calls. Hernando, the camp site attendant, tells of a shortcut to Puerto Natales: “There’s a bridge down by the river …” We found the Rio Serrano quickly, but the condition of the bridge is desolate. For pedestrians and cyclists who are free from giddiness it may still work, but for motorcycles? “Forget it,” is Birgit’s simple comment. “Hey, that looks fun,” it sounds from the single-cylinder faction. And our ascent is already exciting enough. Most of the beams that cross the 80-meter-wide river are rotten. Should we try the enduro bikes? Andreas nods eagerly, so he is the first to turn with his Tenere. We unload the luggage and balance the single cylinder step by step from plank to plank, constantly checking whether the planks are holding. And it works! The jubilation is justified. Now the Dominator. It’s much faster. Routine sets in. Even the fat BMW won’t bring the bridge to collapse. Thanks to this shortcut, we already reach Punta Arenas, which is located directly on the Strait of Magellan. Tierra del Fuego, Tierra del Fuego, beckons on the other bank. What names! Even as a child, the stories of the Portuguese navigator Fernando Magellan put me in a state of excitement. He was the first to circumnavigate the earth and discovered this waterway between the Atlantic and Pacific in 1520. The small, red ferry Melinka finally brings us to the Chilean part of the island. Finally the western storm hits us in the back. We’re flying to the Argentine border. We only drive away from our own cloud of dust at 70 km / h. The border guards are thrilled when they discover our bikes. The clearance is once again a minor matter. Argentinians are crazy about motorcycles, which we can feel on the way to Ushuaia. Oncoming cars flash and honk, the drivers wave enthusiastically at us. The closer we get to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, the more the landscape is reminiscent of Canada or Norway. Fjords, snow-capped mountains and thick forests. Then the first houses on the banks of the Beagle Channel ?? Ushuaia is just a stone’s throw from the infamous Cape Horn. And 17848 kilometers from Alaska. Can wanderlust be more beautiful anywhere? But for a brief moment we think of our families and friends who sent us packages full of nougat, biscuits and gummy bears to the other end of the world for Christmas. So we have not been forgotten. On an idyllic river loop of the Rio Pipo, in the middle of the Tierra del Fuego National Park, we find the perfect campsite for Christmas. Or better: We found out by word of mouth long before our trip that an unofficial globetrotter meeting always takes place here on Christmas Eve. Various motorbikes are already parked on the meadow. Astrid and Daniel come from Alaska, the Canadians Susan and Grant are on their way home with their BMW, and the world-traveling Belgians Marlene and Guy have always wanted to celebrate Christmas in Tierra del Fuego. The hurried Indian Gregory started in Montana just two months ago. Martin, Roland and the Italian Max want to explore South America for a year, the English Greg comes from Alaska with his Royal Enfield. The stories everyone has to tell would probably last until next year, but by then we’re back in Paine National Park for a guaranteed fireworks-free New Year’s Eve. Then the Ruta Cuarenta will be our home again. For days we dusted over the rough gravel road to the north. Every now and then the colorful houses of a farm shine on the prairie. A Norwegian in the saddle of a BMW comes towards you. He actually wanted to go to Ushuaia to meet, but Peru was just too beautiful … A few days later we cross the border to Chile again and follow an exciting track on the south bank of Lake General Carrera, the second largest lake in South America , winds along. Breathtaking gradients, coarse gravel, tight curves and barely two meters wide. First and second gear, nothing more is on the bold track. In addition, fantastic views over the azure blue lake and the Andes. Finally we reach the Carretera Austral, which only opened in 1988. It was a favorite project of the dictator Pinochet, who wanted to settle the almost deserted south by building the 1200 km long gravel road. Unlike the monotonous Ruta Cuarenta, this path leads in endless series of curves through a lush and green landscape in which it almost always rains. But here in the west of the Andes, which separate Chile and Argentina, there is at least no wind, and now and then we pass small villages. Green, blue and red wooden houses that look much friendlier than the dreary buildings on the Argentine side. Those who live here live from the sea and the forest, and mostly it is Mapuche Indians that we meet. We learn from them that for a number of years mainly Japanese companies have been cutting down the unique virgin forests on Chile’s west coast. One would not shy away from 4000 year old Alercen. In the port of Puerto Montt, we finally look in disbelief at the sawed-up giants of the jungle, which are shipped from here to the realm of the rising sun. The young woman in the tourist information sums up the overexploitation: “We saw the branch we are sitting on, but money is blind.” At Puerto Montt we switch over to Argentina again. We stroll through the lake area around Bariloche for a few days, dare a rumbling journey through time in the old Patagonia Express, which has been hissing through the steppe for 70 years, and we are enthusiastic about the perfectly formed volcanoes Osorno and Villarica. On the boringly good tar road to Santiago, the speedometer levels off again at 100 km / h. It’s time to learn vocabulary again.
Info
Patagonia is a dream land for enduro riders. Gravel roads wind through a landscape far beyond European dimensions. And thanks to a relatively good infrastructure, this part of South America is very easy to travel.
Getting there: Flight tickets to Buenos Aires or Santiago de Chile are available from around 1300 marks. When transporting your own bike, you have two options: by plane or ship. Air transport is fast and reliable and if you organize everything yourself, it won’t be too expensive. A Honda Dominator (with a transport pallet about 220 kilograms) flies to Argentina from 1450 marks. It is best to obtain information from several air freight forwarding companies and compare them. We had the best experiences with MBS-Air-Cargo in Cologne, info on 02203/93384143, Stephan Schuster. Also recommended: Bikeworld Travel, Thomas Bergmeier, Detmold, phone 05231/580262, or In Time, Olaf Kleinknecht, Hamburg, phone 040/405051013 The return transport from Santiago is cheaper if it is organized on site (for two machines with at least 500 Kilos about 2000 marks). In Santiago, the Lufthansa Aircargo office offers by far the best service, phone 0056/26301670. If you don’t want to organize the whole thing yourself, GS-Sportreisen in Munich can help. For the return transport of a bike (up to 220 kilograms) to Buenos Aires, 4116 marks are due. With two motorcycles it costs only 3,487 marks per machine. However, the Munich-based company does charge a $ 500 pallet storage fee if you stay for several months. For more information, call 089/27818484; information on sea transport is available from the relevant forwarding agents: MBS-Sea-Cargo, phone 02203/933 842; Woick Travel Center 0711/7096 710; Travel agency Hamburg Sud 040/3705 2593. The transport costs for a motorcycle from Hamburg to Valparaiso or Buenos Aires are around 900 marks. In addition, fees of up to US $ 300 are incurred at the port of destination. Documents: The passport is sufficient, a visa is not required. No Carnet de Passages is officially required for the motorcycle; Customs accompanying documents are issued upon import. An international driver’s license is compulsory, the national vehicle registration is sufficient for the motorcycle. Take copies of all documents with you. Climate: The seasons in the southern hemisphere are contrary to ours. The best time to travel to Patagonia is the southern summer (November to February). Daytime temperatures in the south about 15 degrees, in the north up to 25 degrees. A lot of rain must be expected to the west of the Andes. On the other hand, east of the Andes the wind blows almost constantly from south to west, which often reaches storm strength. Overnight: Hotels and hosterias can be found in all places, sometimes from 20 marks per person. Campsites are – except in the national parks – rather rare, prices from 10 marks. Free camping is not a problem, but the nylon housing should really be storm-resistant. Motorcycles: Patagonia’s gravel roads are often bumpy and decorated with corrugated iron. Coarse tires such as Continental TKC 80, Michelin T63, Barum ED9T or Pirelli MT21 make it easier to get ahead and have a decent life expectancy. Although the fuel supply is not a problem, the range of the motorcycles should be at least 300 kilometers. Tires and spare parts are available in the big cities. Literature: The Bible for South American drivers is still the English language, but very easy to understand »South American Handbook ?? from Footprint Verlag. The book is updated every year and costs 75 marks. The Merian edition “Chile and Patagonia” for 14.80 Marks, which offers excellent photos as well as a lot of travel information, is particularly suitable to get in the mood. Further up-to-date information about Patagonia is also available on the Internet at: www.sectur.gov.ar or http://protours.hypermart.net/html/links.html. The Argentine automobile club ACA publishes detailed maps for the whole country, which are available at everyone ACA petrol station or at the ACA headquarters in Buenos Aires. The R + V map of South America on a scale of 1: 4 million for 19.90 marks is suitable as an overview map. A useful road atlas is sold for around six marks at the Chilean Copec petrol stations. An equivalent road atlas from Lonely Planet is available in this country for 35.80 marks. Soviet general staff maps are available in various scales from the Darr Expedition Service in Munich, phone 089/282033, it takes four months to drive 13,000 kilometers
Related articles
-
to travel South America ?? Antarctic South America ?? Antarctic 42 degrees of latitude On two enduros through the Andes ?? from the Chilean Atacama…
-
With a dog through South America
to travel With a dog through South America With a dog through South America Tinka’s journey Eight months in South America. From Buenos Aires via Tierra…
-
to travel South Africa South Africa From the monkey valley to hell In the western and eastern Cape provinces of South Africa there are some almost…
-
Trans Africa: The long way from Germany to South Africa
Gerner-Haudum 27 pictures Gerner-Haudum 1/27 A holy book in a Jordanian monastery. Gerner-Haudum 2/27 Botswana: Pachyderms with young animals in the…
-
Motorcycle tour Peru – from south to north
Markus Biebricher 15th pictures Markus Biebricher 1/15 In Peru, one of the most diverse countries on earth, you can commute between the extremes. More…
-
On the move: Spain from north to south
Deleker 15th pictures Deleker 1/15 With the motorcycle across Spain, a trip with many highlights. Deleker 2/15 Ready for a movie: Spain’s castles are…
-
Out and about with a motorcycle in the south of France
shepherd 13th pictures shepherd 1/13 On the road with motorcycles in the south of France. There’s a lot to discover. shepherd 2/13 Asphalt surfing under…
-
Photos: Obert to travel South and Central Asia South and Central Asia Around the roof of the world It’s hard to believe, but the idea came spontaneously…
-
On the way: from north to south through Africa
Obert 22nd pictures Obert 1/22 Sudan: invitation to dinner with new friends in the Nubian desert. Obert 2/22 Local motorcycle ferry across the Rovuma…
-
to travel Central America Central America At the limit Drive once from Mexico to Panama, over that almost ridiculously small land bridge between the…