Table of contents
- Baltic coast Northern Riviera
- Information about the Baltic coast
- Baltic Sea Coast (3)
- Baltic Sea Coast (2)
Curves and passes? You will search in vain on the German Baltic coast. Nevertheless, the flat land around the island of Rugen inspires? just in a different way.
It happens between Anklam and Usedom: A long something sprints onto the road, stares at mine for a moment Sachs Roadster 800 and disappears shortly before the impending collision between two gnarled avenue trees on the roadside.
Only a few kilometers further a red and white warning sign finally brings the solution: “Warning, change of otters.” After the quick journey by motorway from southern to northern Germany, I suddenly notice that both the landscape and the animal world have changed significantly.
The seemingly endless avenues, whose canopy of leaves arch over the roadway like green tunnels, initially hide the fact that the land here is more or less in the transition phase to the water world – when you look at the map, there are almost only blue areas around my location to be seen: in the west the Peenestrom, in the east the Stettiner Haff, in the north one or the other backwaters and the Baltic Sea. Only after a while does the thicket clear, a turquoise-green bridge comes into view, behind it is Usedom. I step on the gas, rush across the island towards the famous seaside resorts of Ahlbeck, Heringsdorf and Bansin – the “Pomeranian Riviera” with around 40 kilometers of the finest sandy beach.
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It’s only really fun in bad weather: a walk on the beach.
Then, in Ahlbeck, finally the sea – glittering blue-gray under a cloudless sky. As I hummed towards it, overwhelmed by the feeling of being on vacation, hundreds of seagulls soar to the left and right of the street and circle the gables of colorfully restored villas. They have names like Waltraud, Barbara, Astrid or Dora and look as if they came from an architecture textbook from the 19th century. Since the wealthy builders at the turn of the last century could not opt for a uniform style, some pompous Roman palaces, others resemble Pipi Longstocking’s Villa Kunterbunt.
I chug on to Heringsdorf, whose sprawling villa districts merge almost seamlessly with those of the neighboring seaside resorts. The number of magnificent buildings is enormous, even grocery stores or souvenir shops are housed in stately buildings. Immediately afterwards I make out the historic pier, which extends 508 meters into the sea – and at the end of which an excursion boat with “travel-free offers” lures you on a short trip to neighboring Poland: “Boris-Jelzin-Vodka for 8.90 euros , Jacob’s coronation for 2.99 euros … ”I resist my bargain instinct, instead stop by“ Des Kaisers Pavillon ”, where Kaiser Wilhelm II was a guest and I have the choice between lawyer or Fiaker coffee. The pictures on the wall tell of the times around 1900, when there were separate bathing hours for men and women in Heringsdorf. In the beach chair, however, man and woman were allowed to romp around together, he in a dark suit, she in a train dress. Before that, the children in sailor suits dig in the sand.
After a short tour through the hinterland, I roll west via Bansin and Zinnowitz. The villa ambience is retained, Aldi, Plus and Edeka join in and bring me back from my trip to the imperial era into the 21st century. The way to Karlshagen leads first through a pretty avenue, then through a dense pine forest. Until the fall of the Wall, this was the terminus, the line to Peenemunde was a restricted military area. At the time of National Socialism, I learn in the Historical-Technical Information Center in Peenemunde, it was here that the physicist Wernher von Braun developed the so-called miracle weapon V 2 for Hitler – a large rocket loaded with explosives that exploded on the launch pad during the first test attempt and at the fourth launch after a satisfactory flight distance, however, like a stone fell into the Baltic Sea.
At the port of Peenemunde I take a quick look at the Russian submarine “U 461”, which has been converted into a museum, next to it, the tall ship “Vidar”, which has been converted into a restaurant ship, invites you to a pirate feast: “Skalp vom Kielschwein” (steak with roasted onions), “Hooks Favorite food “(mushroom steak with fried potatoes) or” John Silvers Gebeine “(pork knuckle with sauerkraut), and for dessert there is a” cannon ball with black powder “(ice cream sundae cappuccino).
Information about the Baltic coast
Distance covered: 600 kilometers; Time required: two days.
The charm of the Baltic coast? Sure, the avenues, the beaches, the sea, the vastness. It’ll probably take a few days for the penny to drop. But then this region grabs you.
The quickest way from Berlin to Usedom is via the A 11 to Prenzlau, then via the A 20 to Neubrandenburg and finally on the B 96 to Greifswald. If you arrive via Hamburg, take the A1 in the direction of Lubeck under your wheels, later turn onto the B 104 in the direction of Schoneberg and then onto the A 20 to Sanitz. From here follow the B 110 to Grimmen and the B 194 to Greifswald.
Rugen can be reached via the heavily frequented Rugen dam near Stralsund. An alternative is the ferry between Stahlbrode and Glewitz, which runs every 20 minutes. The passage takes 15 minutes and costs 3.90 euros per person and motorcycle. The shipping company Hiddensee, phone 0180/3212150, provides information about ferry connections to the (car and motorcycle-free) island of Hiddensee; Internet: www.reederei-hiddensee.de. The Adler-Schiff operating company in Heringsdorf offers short trips and day trips (without motorcycle) between Usedom and Poland (Swinoujscie, Stettin, Wollin Island), phone 038378/47790; Internet: www.adler-schiffe.de.
There are plenty of overnight accommodations along the Baltic Sea coast and on Rugen. Anyone traveling during the school holidays should definitely make a reservation. Here are a few tips: Stay close to nature in the comfort apartment houses “Blick zum Vilm” in Freets on Rugen (Dorfstrasse 1), built in the traditional thatched roof style. The overnight stay for two people costs from 50 euros with a minimum booking of three nights (final cleaning from 35 euros), phone 038301/87090; Internet: www.blickzumvilm.de.
The “Idyll am Wolgastsee” hotel in Korswandt on Usedom offers a similar experience of nature. For an overnight stay in a double room, including breakfast buffet, you pay from 30 euros per person, phone 038378/22116; Internet: www.idyll-am-wolgastsee.
The “Panorama Silence Hotels Lohme” – is a lovingly restored villa-style hotel with a great panoramic terrace in Lohme on Rugen. For an overnight stay in a double room including breakfast buffet from 38 euros per person are due, phone 038302/9221; Internet: www.lohme.com.
In the port of Lauterbach on Rugen, the cozy fish pub Hornfisch-bar attracts. Food like the nobility in the times of the emperor can be enjoyed in the restaurant “Des Kaisers Pavillon” in the seaside resort of Heringsdorf on Usedom (www.des-kaisers-pavillon.kaiserbaeder.de).
Do you fancy a meal in a historic train carriage? Then the Selliner Kleinbahnhof on Rugen is the first address (www.klein-bahnhof.de). You feel like Jules Verne’s captain Nemo in the Nautilus adventure restaurant, Dorfstrasse 17 in Neukamp on Rugen (www.ruegen-nautilus.de).
A visit to the historical-technical information center in Peenemunde is exciting, as it clearly deals with the developments in weapons technology during the times of National Socialism. Internet: www.peenemuende.de.
The Wissower Klinken offer a free view of the world-famous chalk cliffs of Rugen; the well-known panorama from the nearby Konigsstuhl, on the other hand, is chargeable. Alternative from the city port of Sassnitz: a trip with the fishing cutter along the chalk coast, for example with Captain Ulrich Hatrath on the cutter “Mowe”, phone 038392/33369.
Anyone interested in historical motorcycles should stop by the museum in Ducherow. Information by phone 039726/20825. Another tip: the German Marine Museum in Stralsund (Katharinenberg 14–20). Information on the Internet: www.meeresmuseum.de.
Reconstructions of adventurous flying machines from the 19th century can be found in the Otto Lilienthal Museum in Anklam, Ellbogenstrasse 1; Internet: www.otto-lilienthal-museum.de.
A detour to the Polish seaside resort Swinoujscie (Swinemunde) on Usedom leads over the pedestrian border crossing at Ahlbeck.
General information, lists of quarters and information material can be obtained from the Regional Tourist Association of Western Pomerania, phone 03834/8910; Internet: www.vorpommern.de. Further internet information can be found at www.ruegen.de, www.usedom.de and www.swinoujscie.pl. The websites www.alleenstrasse.com and www.alleen-fan.de provide information about Deutsche Alleenstrasse.
The 360-page vacation handbook “Baltic Sea Coast Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania” from Reise Know-How-Verlag is the first choice. Price: 10.50 euros. Sheet 2 (Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania) of the “General Map Extra Germany” on a scale of 1: 200,000 provides the best overview. The Falk map “Rostock, Stralsund, Schwerin, Neubrandenburg” offers the same scale. Both sheets cost 7.50 euros each.
Baltic Sea Coast (3)
After the Boddenpartie, I conduct the Sachs via Bergen and Sassnitz to the stump chamber on the Jasmund peninsula and take a look at the suddenly falling chalk cliffs of the Konigsstuhl, which Caspar David Friedrich once banished to oil. Although seen a thousand times as a photo guaranteed – the sight of the original is in a class of its own.
A trip to Cape Arkona – Germany’s North Cape – is a must. Two striking, historic lighthouses on the edge of the almost 50 meter high chalk cliffs mark this often rather windy end of the republic. Then I take the ferry to West-Rugen and finally get to Stralsund via the Rugen dam, scour the world cultural heritage of the Hanseatic city and board – in time for dinner – back to Lauterbach. Because one thing is certain: After my excursion with the Jeschkes, there will be fresh flounder in the smokehouse Berta and in the Hornfischbar.
The next day I follow the course of the Deutsche Alleenstrabe via Stralsund to Demmin. A truck convoy comes towards me, almost sweeps me off the bench, that’s how strong the draft is in the tunnel of trees. Later I have to curve around fallen branches – the municipal utilities are very busy looking after the trees with their vehicles including lifting cages, saws and chopping machines. Presumably she will keep the maintenance of the rows of trees busy all year round – the network of avenues and tree-lined stretches on one side adds up to a length of 4,374 kilometers in Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania alone.
In Demmin I come across the German Hanseatic Route, which will lead me – through avenues of course – along the Peene back to Anklam. So far inland nothing can be felt of the sea. Nevertheless, a fish restaurant on the Demminer Hanseufer beckons me. But the flounder served doesn’t taste quite as good as the one on Rugen the evening before. Couldn’t possibly be one of the flounders that I dug out of the net under the guidance of Captain Jeschke.
Baltic Sea Coast (2)
The off-season on the Baltic coast is also suitable for motorcyclists.
Well. I ride on to the “Bridge of Friendship” in front of Wolgast, stand in a traffic jam until the folding structure spans the Peene and leave the island of Udedom with a seemingly endless line of cars. A flying visit to the Hanseatic city of Greifswald, then I let myself whirl down the busy E 251 towards the next pearl of the Baltic Sea: Rugen – with almost 1000 square kilometers, Germany’s largest island. At Reinberg I turn, escaping the traffic flow in the direction of Stralsund and Rugen dam, to Stahlbrode and head for the island with the car ferry. Barely twenty minutes later, there is a feeling of great calm and security. Surrounded by the jungle-green arms of stone-old avenue trees, the Sachs plunges into a tube made of leaves and branches and glides along completely decoupled from the rest of the world. brilliant.
Near Garz I come across the Deutsche Alleenstrabe, which – almost 2500 kilometers long to Lake Constance – starts on Rugen. There are three entrances on the island, because it was impossible to choose one of the attractive alternatives.
Putbus appears, the white city of Prince Wilhelm Malte I: palace gardens, orangery, theater, round square with obelisk. Erected in the classical style at the beginning of the 19th century, the pomp testifies to the former feudalism of Rugen. Then Deutsche Alleenstrasse collapses over me again like a tunnel. At Klein Strelow I notice that the linden avenue has turned into a no less beautiful oak avenue, I overlook the sign: “Attention, change of flooring” and hop like a Duracell hare over a passage made of roughly hewn cobblestone that must have come from GDR times . The camper van lurching in front of me seems to fare far worse: It rattles as if all the dishes are flying out of the cupboards. On the B 196 I readjust the mirrors, cruise through an avenue of chestnut trees to Granitz and Binz and on towards Sellin through an avenue of beeches.
On a foray through Sellin, I succumb to the charm of classic spa architecture again. All around villas with playful turrets, magnificent columns, filigree wooden inlays, bay windows, loggias and balconies. A sweeping staircase leads down to the beach, which is adorned by a pier with a fairytale castle-like building. Back on the road. Past the seaside resorts of Baabe, Gohren and Thiessow to the south. Between the pretty bathing resorts there are small forests, now and then branches with signs, two of which almost make me fall off my motorcycle with laughter: “Nudist dog beach” and “Textile dog beach”.
Back on Deutsche Alleenstrasse, I head for the fishing village of Lauterbach via Putbus. Finally no seaside resort, no million dollar bridge construction, no Belle Epoque villas. Bread rolls are sold from the smoker ship “Berta”, optionally with smoked rollmops, herb matjes or crabs. Diagonally across from the Hornfischbar, paper lanterns hang on the trees, there are tea lights in paper bags on the tables, and the parasols stretched over them fly along the street at the first gust of wind. With a sigh of relief, I sink into one of the last vacant chairs, order hake with fried potatoes and look over ship’s masts at the sea.
“This is not a sea, but a bay”, I am instructed by Captain Jeschke on my subsequent quay promenade. The full-time fisherman sells the last catch of the day off the cutter, pokes flounders from the net in between and chatters with passers-by. Son Kai weighs it, buyers rush over and stow the fish in bags and boxes they brought with them. When Jeschke holds a 27-pound pike in front of my nose for demonstration purposes, the customers almost start jostling. “You go out at six in the morning, back at eight,” the captain explains to me after the tumult has subsided, “bring a case of beer with you, then you can join us.”
The next morning, ten to six. Captain Jeschke happily takes his box from Rostocker, asks me to see son Kai on board and quickly fetches his father, who is taking over the helm today. At six point the luxury yacht “Saxonia” leaves the port of Lauterbach like a dream ship, we shoot afterwards in the 80-hp cutter “LAU-O4”. Jeschke hands me oilskins, which turns out to be a good idea when the first crusher smacks me in the face. The clouds are looming, the waves are moderate, there is a land wind. We drive past the island of Vilm to a red flag that marks the Jeschke fishing ground. The echo sounder writer records yellow-gray fish symbols at a depth of almost five meters, Jeschke Senior chugs along the laid out nets, the captain brings in the first catch of the day with the hydraulically operated winch. Sometimes the net gets tangled up and cuts Jeschke’s calloused hands while Kai and I pull out the wriggling flounder in unison. “Unfortunately not a pike,” remarks Jeschke, almost apologetically.
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