Table of contents
- Optimization Suzuki SV 1000 S Craft lesson
- Remodeling tips
- White power
- Tips for changing wheels
- Practical tip: change the shock absorber / spring
Optimization Suzuki SV 1000 S
Optimization Suzuki SV 1000 S
Runs and runs and runs ?? the tried and tested Suzuki twin showed no nakedness over 10,000 MOTORRAD test kilometers. Only the undercarriage of the SV 1000 S made trouble? but turning it off is not rocket science.
No, we don’t want to repeat the whole story of the capricious Suzuki TL 1000 S from 1997, the subject is a thing of the past,
Saddled up and gone, that’s it. Even after a night in the worst drizzle, the twin buzzes with the push of a button thanks to electronic chokes. The only noticeable thing: it rumbles clearly from the depths of the crankcase when idling, and the anti-hopping clutch sometimes tends to chatter when accelerating. Little things that hardly spoil the enjoyment.
If the Suzuki technicians had made a similar effort to the chassis as they did to the magnificent engine, the editorial staff could safely have saved these pages-
nen. But in the top test (MOTORRAD 7/2003) the test riders frowned. Moderate steering precision and cornering stability, slight instability at top speed, rock-hard suspension at the rear, too soft at the front. No question about it, the SV 1000 S is a case for the MOTORRAD workshop.
And since the frequent traveler Monika Schulz already feared a herniated disc, the team first got to work on ergonomics. The buck-
Stump handlebars placed higher up, which, in the case of the LSL conversion, also move in the direction of the driver, mitigate the inconvenience of sitting. If you are going quickly over the track, the smart MRA windshield with seven-way adjustable spoiler reduces the wind pressure on the head and shoulders. A good recommendation for a marathon ride in a hurry.
Everything is nice, but of course there is still no answer to the lamented chassis weaknesses. The solution comes first in the form of a smooth, adjustable LSL steering damper. Especially at low temperatures and at low speeds, the stiff standard damper messes up a clean line. Swinging turn-in and tightly pepped alternating curves are much more precise with the LSL part, without having to touch up the line.
A recommendation that the SV 1000 S does not reach to perfection on undulating stretches because the stubborn hindquarters swayed out of the track when sloping. The standard shock absorber is not that bad, only the spring rate of around 80 kg / cm was chosen too hard. And so it is not surprising that
the combination of a softer one
Spring from Wilbers (85 euros, phone 05921/727170) and the series shock absorber proves to be an impeccable and above all inexpensive solution (rebound stage one and a half, compression stage one turn).
If the progression of the fork increases somewhat by reducing the air cushion to 150 millimeters, there is not much to complain about in terms of suspension comfort, stability on bumpy slopes and, in particular, the balance of fore and hindquarters.
The only weak point: The Suzuki dips more with the softer tuning on the rear shock, which leads to a slight but noticeable understeer in corners. Remedy: The fork tubes are pushed through to an overhang of 13 millimeters in the bridges, and handling and steering precision are straight again. The reason: With the fork pushed through, the caster and steering head angle change in the direction of handiness.
Because the call for more bite had become loud during the brake measurements with the SV, this topic was also included in the specifications. The easiest way to success is to use other pads, such as Brembo and Lucas. With their downright aggressive bite, the latter transform the slightly blunt standard brake into an absolutely sporty stopper.
Who now from the three im
Vehicle license registered tire choosing his favorite will be his joy
with the SV 1000. The handy Michelin Pilot Sport show themselves through
the optimizations on the chassis at their best. The sportiest rubbers are the Metzeler Sportec M-1, which offer even more grip and stability. Those who, on the other hand, value greater abrasion resistance-
lays without sacrificing handiness and
To want to forego cornering stability lies
correct with the Bridgestone BT 011/020. Because it runs and runs and runs…
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Optimization Suzuki SV 1000 S
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The handlebar conversion requires manual dexterity in order to set the locking holes for the switches on the standard handlebars on the new steering tubes. When replacing the washer, the right tool and a little patience are sufficient to position the threads / rubber grommets. Despite the hidden position, replacing the steering damper is quite easy. Tip: When the front wheel is unloaded, check that it moves freely and easily. Retighten the screws after the test drive.
Price: 349 euros Handlebar weights: 29.95 euros Telephone: 02151/55590 Practice: simple attachment, bracket for brake reservoir and longer brake hose included. Clean, complex processing of the anodized surfaces. Position: 28 mm offset to the center of the fork leg, 30 mm above the bridge. Function: comfortably positioned far back, good cranking. The possibility of adjusting the handlebar stub towards the rear is limited by the fork bridge screws (pan head). Little space between the handlebars and the tank when the vehicle is turned fully. Overall more convenient than series. Significant vibrations without handlebar weights.
Price: 178.89 Euro Telephone: 02631/9120 Practice: Installation is cumbersome because the bracket for the brake fluid reservoir is missing and the M8 screws are too long for the threaded holes and have to be shortened. Relatively rough processing of the non-anodized surfaces. Position: 50 mm offset to the center of the fork leg and 40 mm above the bridge (measured in the center of the steering tube) Function: a bit far forward for small riders, pleasant cranking, little free space for fairing, throttle cables a little too tight when fully turned. Overall more comfortable than standard handlebars. Significant vibrations without handlebar weights.
Price: 175 euros Easy installation on the original brackets, spacers and screws are included. Position one to three is sufficient to dampen dangerous banging of the handlebars. This means that the Suzuki drives much more precisely and less wobbly in tight bends. At level 5 the hydraulic resistance is similar to that of the standard damper.
Price: 119.90 euros Telephone: 07663/93890 Attachment: The MRA disc with adjustable spoiler is pre-drilled and is fastened with the original screws. Function: locking the spoiler in seven possible positions. In the maximally raised position, the wind pressure on the head and chest area is noticeably reduced from 120 km / h. However, depending on the size of the driver, increased turbulence and wind noise can occur.
Price: 37.75 euros per pair Telephone: 0531/2102125 The sintered metal linings (07.KA 13.SA) also have a good braking effect when cold and can be finely dosed. At operating temperature, the braking force increases again and is well above the standard pads. With a stable pressure point, the Brembos can also endure heated braking maneuvers. A good compromise for sporty country road driving without excessive bite.
Price: 31.90 euros per pair Telephone: 02631/9120 Cold, similar to the series, when operating warm, the braking effect of the Lucas pads (MCB 602 SV) increases rapidly with good controllability. Significantly less hand strength is required than with the standard rubbers. The pressure point does not remain quite as stable under extreme load as with the Brembos. Very biting surface with good controllability for experienced drivers.
Price: 440 euros; hydraulic spring base adjustment 190 euros Telephone: 05924/78360 Practice: simple installation and perfect fit, good workmanship, installation length 333 mm (series 330 mm). Function: slight unrest in fast, wavy curves. Even straight ahead a bit more restless than with a standard strut. Comfort despite the hard 80s spring is a little better than in the standard trim. Settings: negative spring travel approx. 10 mm, rebound stage damping position 2 to 4, more is too much and pulls the motorcycle into the rear suspension, the comfort is then worse. Conclusion: The three millimeters longer installation length is not conducive to the SV 1000 S, the instability at top speed is not improved by it. In terms of suspension / damping, there is no significant advantage to be found compared to the series tuning for country roads. Tip: The WP damper works better with a softer 70 spring.
Price: 415 euros; hydraulic spring base adjustment 205 euros Telephone: 05921/74099 Practice: good fit, very accessible hydraulic adjustment, high-quality workmanship. Installation length 330 mm. Function: significantly more comfort than the standard shock absorber on bumpy roads, relatively stable in curves and on the straights. In heavy bumps, however, the rear of the vehicle dips heavily, which means that it bounces with a lot of energy and requires a high level of rebound damping. In solo operation, it compresses almost to the limit, with a passenger too little reserves in the compression damping even with maximum spring preload. Settings: negative spring travel approx. 5 mm, rebound 10 to 12 clicks. Conclusion: Better comfort, especially for light riders, is offset by the too soft design of the compression damping, which is not sufficient for a sporty driving style or with a pillion passenger.
Price: 959 euros Telephone: 08669/8480 Practice: good fit, excellent workmanship, installation length 330 mm. Only the knob for the hydraulic spring base adjustment sits somewhat inconveniently and tightly on the rear of the frame. Function: brilliant response. Very stable in undulating corners and at high speed. Transparent feedback without sacrificing convenience. Extremely wide usable adjustment range of the damping, with which a perfect coordination can be worked out for all distances and loads. Settings: negative spring travel approx. 8 mm, rebound stage 12 to 16 clicks on, compression stage 10 to 14 clicks on (lower number of clicks for a sporty driving style). Conclusion: expensive, high quality shock absorber with excellent function and workmanship. Recommended for sporty country road speeds through to use on the racetrack.
Tips for changing wheels
Assembly stands for fork and swing arm are required to remove the wheels. In addition, the front axle is equipped with a 24-millimeter hexagon socket. A wide nut with a size 24 wrench serves as a replacement for an Allen key, half of which engages in the hexagon socket and the other half in the ring spanner. The key, or better a nut, for the 36 mm rear axle nut is easier to find. When installing, ensure that the brake anchor is correctly seated in the guide. It is best to place a board under the rear wheel so that it is at axle height and the wheel and spacer sleeves can be threaded through. When tightening the nut, tension the chain tensioner and the axle through a jammed log between the chain wheel and the chain.
Front: Battlax Radial F BT 011 “E” Rear: Battlax Radial R BT 020 “U” Plusl Good straight-line stabilityl No shimmy (handlebar flutter) l Good cornering stabilityl Neutral on bumps in curvesl Steering precise and harmonious to drive Minusl Noticeably poses itself when braking in an inclined positionl Worse Self-damping at the front on potholes / bumpy roads, requires two clicks more on the LSL steering damper than Sportec and Pilot Sport Conclusion: a neutral, handy tire with impeccable driving and cornering stability Internet: www.bridgestone-eu.com
Front: Sportec M-1 Steel Radial Front Rear: Sportec M-1 Steel RadialPlusl Very neutral steering and cornering behaviorl Low set-up torque when braking in cornersl High cornering stability even on bumpy roads l Relatively handyl Good self-damping minusl Slight shimmy between 70 and 90 km / hl Im Standard trim not quite optimal high speed stability Conclusion: sporty tire with very good grip and perfect cornering behavior, but relatively high wear Internet: www.metzelermoto.de
Front: Pilot Sport “E” Back: Pilot Sport “L” Plusl Handy l Good cornering stabilityl Neutral cornering behaviorl Satisfactory straight-line stability in the standard triml Acceptable erection moment Minusl Slight shimmy and longitudinal groove sensitivity, which is increased when the vehicle is worn outl Raises itself easily on bumps (better with a soft spring ) Conclusion: handy sports tire with neutral handling and good stability, which, however, loses some of its qualities as the profile decreases. Internet: www.michelin.de
Practical tip: change the shock absorber / spring
A Before converting the shock absorber, the brake lever is pulled by a rubber strap to prevent the machine from rolling off the side stand. B Loosen the nut of the tension struts with a size 17 ring spanner while holding back with a size 14 spanner. Do not remove the bolt or any other screws yet! C Loosen the nut on the shock absorber with a 14 mm socket and counterhold with a 12 mm wrench. D Loosen the bolt on the upper suspension strut eye with the extension and 14 mm socket through the hole in the frame and counter with the 14 mm wrench. E Now the motorcycle is lifted with a scissor or hydraulic jack on a part fixed to the frame and supported with assembly stands or similar to prevent it from slipping. Only then remove all bolts on the shock absorber and deflection. F The shock absorber can be removed from the swing arm downwards. Make sure that the inner ring on the lower needle bearing does not fall out. G Clamp the shock absorber at the upper eye in a vice with soft jaws, never clamp the damper cylinder! Measure and note the pretensioned spring length. Clean the thread with a brass brush, loosen the locknuts with a hook wrench and turn down to the end of the thread. H Push back the rubber stop on the damper rod, take off the spring plate, remove the spring and mount a new spring in the correct position. I Carefully screw the locknuts onto the aluminum thread with a little copper paste and pretension the spring to the desired dimension (Wilbers spring 193 millimeters), tighten the lock nut. J Align the piston rod using a mandrel so that the eyes are parallel and the screws of the tension and compression stage are on the same side. Assemble the shock absorber in reverse order, insert bolts and nuts, jack off the motorcycle and only now tighten the bolts and nuts. Release the front brake, compress the motorcycle, pay attention to freedom of movement and grinding noises. K For better balance, the fork can be pushed through 13 millimeters in the bridges.
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