Posted on 09.02.2021 by admin

Purchase advice Kreidler Florett RS What to look for when buying
Almost anything can be repaired with a Kreidler
engine
Primary drive and clutch
transmission
frame
Spring elements
Brakes
Checkpoints
Expert Uli Steeb

Bilski

41 pictures

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Uli Steeb identified the bearing of the sprocket carrier as a frequent damage. Then a new industrial bearing (6004) must be pressed in (approx. 30 euros).

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… And this is what Uli Steeb’s solution looks like.

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… The remedy is painstakingly accurate turning of the drums. Treacherous: If the PVC ring dissolves at the centering, the brake can close in motion …

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There is hardly a Kreidler with drum brakes who would not be noticed today with more or less strong scratching …

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… This has to give way to a new one, the repair kits are still available. Carefully clean everything before assembling.

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A hand brake cylinder with a worn brake piston …

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In the picture said return hole, clogged with resinified brake fluid. Free it with a thin wire.

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Rusty grooves on the brake disc are an indication of a blocked return hole in the handbrake cylinder. It prevents the brake piston from sliding back.

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The Simmerring must always be replaced when the fork is overhauled. On the left you can see a new one, on the right in the immersion tube the torn off remainder of the old sealing ring.

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The plastic bushings do not have a long life, especially on the right-hand side, and the swing arm runs in quickly. Always replace both parts. Caution: accessory bronze sockets are often manufactured too imprecisely.

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The six-volt ignition systems of the Kreidler 50s are considered robust. In the event of a defect, it is worth retrofitting to 12-volt systems.

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The VDO watches are difficult to read due to the violently oscillating hands. Still stupid if they fall off, like here on the tachometer.

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As with many classics, tanks with rusted inside are also an ugly sight at Kreidler. A small wall thickness makes the renovation difficult.

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… Uli Steeb strengthens this area by applying material using the TIG welding process.

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… which occur directly in the area of the fastening eye …

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Cracks on the aluminum gear lever are also not uncommon, …

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… Usually the railing breaks first, while cracks on the thin base plate are more likely to result in consequential damage.

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With frequent pillion transport, breaks in both the (originally chrome-plated) railing and the spoiler seat screwed to it are not uncommon …

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A Kokusan ignition is installed on Uli Steeb’s test vehicle, which is also available in a 12 volt version (approx. 180 euros).

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The broken sealing ring below the spring. On the new part you can see the inclined surface for controlling the oil flow, the larger one points downwards.

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Are the stanchions pressed into the lower triple clamp free of rust and warpage? Then an overhaul of the fork is sufficient, whereby not only the oil should be changed, but also the sealing ring underneath the spring.

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To be on the safe side, the crankshaft should always be overhauled after purchase. A new connecting rod set from the accessories is pressed into the shaft.

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Drilled out: Cylinders damaged by piston seizures are turned out to a dimension of 42.14 millimeters and then coated with Nikasil. There is also a matching piston.

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Defective crank drive, here already dismantled: rust has destroyed the lower connecting rod bearing. The needles entered the combustion chamber, where they left their marks in the piston and cylinder head.

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Impressive traces of a severe piston seizure can be seen here, which has left a wide score. The cylinder can be saved by turning it out.

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Piston gallery of horror with typical damage patterns: overheating (left), consequence of a destroyed connecting rod bearing (center), piston seizure (right).

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Rusty, not sprightly: The engine innards look like this after a long slumber. Nothing works here without an overhaul.

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Our expert: Uli Steeb.

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Frank Wilke, Head of Market Monitoring at classic-analytics: As far as the market value is concerned, the Kreidler Florett RS 50 clearly won the never-ending battle with the Hercules K 50 and the Zundapp KS 50.

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Don’t throw anything away: even with larger breakouts, such as here on the oil drain plug and pole wheel, a motor housing can still be saved by welding it on!

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Typical coupling problems: swollen lamellae …

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… and worn helical teeth on the primary gear of the basket.

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… Without reinforcement, the steering stop bends too easily.

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After over 40 years in some cases, rust inside the pressed steel frame is not uncommon. Spray wax or grease prevents the brown crumbs from getting into the carburetor through the intake opening of the air filter …

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Smart optimization: A second “stitch” with an additional O-ring on the kick starter shaft improves the guidance of the gearshift actuation.

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Consequential damage: Bent shift forks or fragments of lamellas also destroy the sliding sleeves on the transmission shafts.

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… Breakouts on the transmission gears. Nothing can be straightened here, exchange parts have to be found.

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Shifting without a clutch or fragments of broken clutch plates lead to these types of damage: a bent shift fork, …

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If the coupling no longer separates properly, its actuating pin is usually worn out due to material removal.

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counselor

Used purchase

Purchase advice Kreidler Florett RS

Purchase advice Kreidler Florett RS
What to look for when buying

Content of

A Kreidler Florett RS was once one of the most popular entry-level drugs in the motorcycle scene. We show what lovers have to look out for when buying the 50s that are hip again today.

Uli Holzwarth

05/22/2014

Experience can’t hurt if you’re interested in a moped from the 1970s today. Anyone who approaches the matter with a realistic and self-critical look in the rear-view mirror knows best from their own youth what fate the hot 50s have mostly suffered, across all brands.

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Purchase advice Kreidler Florett RS
What to look for when buying

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Intrepid beginners, changing owners, idiots and a long slumber that often lasted for years or even decades put a lot of pressure on most mopeds. Which is why the little ones, which are very popular with lovers and nostalgics, can sometimes cause big problems. Before that, of course, even the 50s are from Kreidler not immune, which used to have a reputation for being particularly robust.

Almost anything can be repaired with a Kreidler

For Uli Steeb, however, there is no reason to renounce the dreams of youth today. “Almost everything can be repaired with a Kreidler, and many parts are still available, either from original stocks or as reproductions,” says the Kreidler expert, who has already made countless speedsters from Kornwestheim afloat again with his wealth of experience. On the following pages he shows us the typical defects and weaknesses of these mopeds, which interested parties should pay attention to when viewing.

motorcycles

On the move: Hercules K 50 SE, Kreidler Florett RS

Performance race

read more

Used Kreidler

engine

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The 56-year-old advises particular caution with the long-term stayers, which are often declared as barns: “With such specimens, you can often find rust on engine components such as bearings, gear shafts or the crank mechanism. The cause is condensation that has formed over the years. ”Anyone who tries to get the engine to run somehow now risks unnecessary consequential damage. Uli Steeb recommends leaving the entire engine to a specialist: “If you want to enjoy your Kreidler for a long time, you should add around 400 to 500 euros to the purchase price for a major overhaul of the engine.”

This is completely dismantled, blasted or cleaned and fitted with new bearings and sealing rings. The clutch disks and the connecting rod set are also being renewed. To do this, the crankshaft has to be dismantled into its individual parts with the help of a press and then pressed again with a connecting rod set including roller bearings from the accessories. Tip from the expert: “If somehow possible, a damaged crankshaft should be straightened. This is definitely better than installing a replica shaft, because the crank webs are too soft. ”If you remove the crankshaft yourself, the overhaul by a specialist costs around 70 to 90 euros, including the accessory connecting rod set.

In contrast, even less experienced screwdrivers can determine how things are with the cylinder and piston after simply dismantling the cylinder and head. Traces of a piston seizure or even deep grooves force further investments of around 250 euros. To do this, a specialist company enlarges the bore to 42.14 millimeters. The drilled out cylinder is then given a wear-resistant Nikasil coating in Italy before it is given to the customer with the appropriate piston. If the motor housing breaks, Steeb pulls out the welding machine to repair the damaged areas using the TIG process. A sensible way, because housing parts are no longer available!

Primary drive and clutch

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When the mileage exceeds 20,000 kilometers, the helical teeth of the primary drive gear on the clutch basket are very often worn out. This creates a sharp burr on the back of the clutch cage. In this case, only replacing the entire clutch cage will help. Problems are also caused by old, swollen friction plates or inaccurately manufactured replica parts from the accessories, which are noticeable as stiff and slipping clutches. Remedy here and there: “Rework the friction disks so that they can move easily in the clutch basket.” If, on the other hand, the clutch does not separate properly, the clutch pressure pin may have worked its way into the release lever. An exchange is not absolutely necessary, the material removal can be repaired cheaply by welding.

transmission

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Uli Steeb mainly reports breakouts on the gears of gear malaise. In addition to wear and tear due to high mileage, this is also due to excessively long oil change intervals. However, tooth decay on the gear wheels can also cause fragments of broken clutch plates if they get into the gearbox. Bent shift forks and sliding sleeves on the transmission shafts, which also suffer from brutal shifting without a clutch, are also due to them. In all cases there is no getting around a replacement gearbox. Good used ones cost around 150 euros, but the new parts that are also still available cost a multiple of that. Uli Steeb’s tip, on the other hand, does not cost anything, which ensures safe guidance of the gearshift mechanism on the kick starter shaft: “I give the kick starter shaft a second stitch on the lathe, in which another O-ring is fixed. This not only seals the gearshift shaft, but also prevents the gearshift mechanism from tilting. “

frame

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The Kreidler expert takes a similarly pragmatic approach against rust in the sheet metal frame: “Spray wax or special grease in the frame, this stops further corrosion and binds the rust particles. Otherwise, these will be sucked in and, despite the air filter, can either get into the carburettor or even the cylinder – with the corresponding consequences. ”Furthermore, make sure that the reinforcements of the steering stop are present and not crooked, otherwise there will be dents in the tank.

Spring elements

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Maintenance of the fork presents little difficulty. As long as this is not warped by falling, the simply constructed fork can be dismantled and overhauled without any problems for reasonably experienced screwdrivers. It is essential to replace the mostly defective sealing ring below the spring. This angled rubber ring is responsible for the damping. When installing, make sure that its larger surface points downwards! Broken shock absorber? The trade offers inexpensive substitutes for this.

Brakes

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Typical for Kreidler models with disc brakes are clogged return bores and worn brake pistons on the hand brake cylinder. No drama for experts, the repair is done quickly by cleaning the drain hole and installing a new brake piston. “Anyone who has never done something like this should leave repairs to the brakes to a specialist, it doesn’t cost the world,” advises Steeb. The single-piston floating caliper will of course also be overhauled. A job for the professional is also out of round drum brakes – a frequent mishap. Then the drums have to be turned off. Be careful with a crumbled PVC ring on the brake centering, because this can cause the brake, which is too easy to move, to close while driving. “Drill out the rivet and replace it with a screw with a new PVC washer and stop nut,” our expert advises.

Finally, he once again appeals to all Kreidler fans: “It is worth spending some money on a thorough overhaul. After that, the 50s will run without problems for many years to come! ”Uli Steeb should know. If anyone has any experience with Kreidler, it is him.

Checkpoints

Bilski

Checklist Kreidler Florett RS.

1. On the bench with spoiler, check both the rail and the base plate for breaks.

2. The plastic bushings of the swing arm bearings wear out quickly and the axle runs in

3. The gearbox has tooth decay as well as bent shift claws and sleeves

4. If the pressed steel frame is rusted inside, rust particles get into the intake tract

5. Crankshafts and cylinders with pistons are often in need of an overhaul

6. Pendulum hands are quite normal on the instruments, but not those that have fallen off

7. Is the fork distorted by a fall? Otherwise, the oil and O-ring must be replaced

8. Rubbing drums and jamming pliers are often front brake problems

Bilski

Frank Wilke, Head of Market Monitoring at classic-analytics.

“In terms of market value, the Kreidler Florett RS 50 has clearly won the eternal three-way battle with Hercules K 50 and Zundapp KS 50. For beautiful specimens in condition two, around 2500 euros have to be invested, top-restored models bring up to 3500 euros, sometimes even more. For comparison: Both the Hercules and the Zundapp cost around 500 euros less in the same condition. In the case of moderate, but ready-to-drive vehicles, the price differences are naturally smaller. The foil is available here for around 1000 euros, the competitors are available for 600 euros each.

Interesting: the age has practically no influence on the value, the price level of the born 1967 to 1982 is almost the same, the performance differences that were so prestigious in the wild seventies – initially 5.3 hp, later 6.8 hp – become from today’s Buyers were taken with a smile. A Kreidler Florett RS is not bought by gas patients, but by people who could not – or were not allowed to – fulfill this dream in the late 60s to the early 80s!”

Expert Uli Steeb

Bilski

Uli Steeb.

Let’s go to Kreidler. Up on Kreidler. And you stay with Kreidler. This earlier advertising slogan of the Kornwestheimers could also serve as Uli Steeb’s motto in life. The now 56-year-old from Haberschlacht has had the two-wheeler career typical of young people in rural areas: mopeds, mopeds, mopeds – all from Kreidler, of course. Even after training as a precision mechanic and large caliber in the garage, he remained loyal to the Kreidler runabouts, collecting, restoring and tuning. Until all storage options on the local farm were bursting at the seams. Of course, that did not go unnoticed. And so more and more Kreidler lovers – young and old – met in the Steeb‘schen workshop, from which the “Kreidlerfreunde Haberschlacht” ultimately formed, a relaxed community with a common passion. One turns, the other welds – this has resulted in a network of specialists. With Uli Steeb in the competence center and even a small Kreidler museum. Contact: usteeb@gmx.de

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Purchase advice Kreidler Florett RS

Table of contents

Purchase advice Kreidler Florett RS

Purchase advice Kreidler Florett RS
What to look for when buying