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- The Alps in focus: around the Triglav Triglav tour
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The Alps in focus: around the Triglav
The Alps in focus: around the Triglav
Triglav tour
Slovenia marks the southeasternmost outpost of the Alpine arc. Josef Seitz took a close look at the centerpiece, the Triglav National Park. And discovered great motorcycle routes and a remarkable piece of alpine culture.
Josef Seitz
08/10/2004
The whole world is at my feet. At least that’s what I can imagine at the top of the Mangart spur road.
The crests of the Italian Alpine peaks bore deep below me through the cloud cover. Just the mangart over-
protrudes from my point of view. With a noble cloud
he watches over his head like a meditating soldier
the boundary line. At 2,677 meters, it is not the highest
Alpine peaks, but the competition in the neighboring country can no longer keep up.
Mangartstrasse, a former military road, separated the wheat from the chaff among enduro riders until the early 1990s. A desolate gravel road that wind and weather made worse every year. Some time ago a narrow tar blanket tamed the ten kilometer long driveway and turned it into a really beautiful pass road. Only at the very bottom at the entrance to the cul-de-sac does a landslide bring back a bit of the old days. But the scree is quickly crossed. I let the Honda roll slowly and enjoy the view of the gray rocky peaks of the Julian Alps. Soon I am at the Predil Pass, which swings down to Bovec at the old Kluze defensive bulwark. The place is an international magnet for
White water freaks who enjoy a magnificent paddling area in the bright green waters of the Soca. The river, born in the crevices of the Triglav National Park, accompanies me in a gorge carved as if by an artist’s hand up to the Vr ?? ic pass.
The Mangart slope ?? it used to separate the wheat from the chaff among the enduro riders
Narrow, rocking ones span over and over again
Suspension bridges cross the white water and connect the small farms on the other side of the river with the outside world.
Then the road leaves the Soca valley and rises with the
first turns of the Vr ?? ic pass into the mountain range.
The 1611 meter high crossing is the icing on the cake
Slovenian pass roads. The Honda flies around the curve radii like on rails until Ticjarev Dom appears, the hut on the top of the pass. This is where the footpath to the
Triglav, the highest peak in the country at 2,844 meters.
It is said that a Slovene may only call himself a Slovene after he has climbed it. After not being a Slovenian
want to be, I can confidently tackle the opposite direction, the northern pass descent. A street with a sad history. Tens of thousands of Russian prisoners of war were assigned during the First World War,
to wrest the route from the mountain in laborious work. The transition seemed strategically important, but the sacrifices were immense. Alone when there was an avalanche
110 people killed. The small Russian chapel with its two onion domes, which stands halfway down the road into the valley, is a reminder of this. Here on the north-
On the flank, some hairpin bends are paved, with the view of the vertically rising rock walls of the national park keeping the pace under control anyway. They are among the highest in the entire Alpine region. In front of Kranjska Gora an unconventional monument appears: the ibex Zlatorog, the legendary figure of Triglav.
After a few kilometers on the main route towards Ljubljana, a small road branches off in Mojstrana back to the national park. In a mixture of tar and gravel, it leads along the Radovna through lonely forest areas to the east. Farmers have settled where the mountains left enough space. Hay dries on harps, and a crumbling sawmill tells of times gone by. In the loneliness I almost feel like a troublemaker. In Spodnie Gorje I follow the sign to the Vintgar Gorge. Over the millennia, the Radovna dug a dark ravine into the rock. In 1891 Jakob Zumer, the then mayor of Gorje, was the first to venture through the gorge together with a cartographer during a summer with exceptionally low water. And then decided to make the wild beauty accessible to everyone.
He had elaborate wooden walkways anchored in the rock and
thus helped little Gorje to become one of the most remarkable attractions in Slovenia.
She speaks in a small restaurant up in the village
Senior boss a few words in German. Not uncommon
in Slovenia, as the population is more and more the
Northern Alpine neighbors felt as part of the compulsory socialist community of Yugoslavia. So became
German as a foreign language has always been taught in schools. What pays off today especially in tourism and has brought many places firmly into German and Austrian hands. For example Bled. The small town has exactly the ingredients that attract tourists by bus: a lake with an island plus a church and a steep boulder with a castle on top of it directly on the water. Enough to shoot hotel blocks out of the ground. To be honest, I prefer to drive a short distance back to Gorje and south to the Pokljuka region. A great motorcycle route winds up
into the woods until she mended a thousand times at the top
Tar cover passes and at the Slovenian center for
Biathlon ends. Shortly before that, a slope branches off into the forest, which after a short gravel intermezzo leads past old villages and farms into the valley of the Sava Bohinjska. Lake Bohinjsko Jezero silently reflects the surrounding peaks. Until a rowboat is the idyll
cuts up and dissolves the illusion into a tangled watercolor. Another 20 minutes’ walk and I’m under the
Slap Savice, one of the highest waterfalls in Slovenia.
Since the road does not go any further, I drive back via Bohinjska Bistrica and to the 1277 meter high Bohinjsko pass. The Julian Alps are transformed into a hilly landscape covered by deciduous forests and offer perfect motorcycle conditions. First it goes up the slopes in tight curves, then the road swings wide
Arches through the Baca river valley. At Grahovo an inconspicuous little road branches off up to Bukovo. Predicate: particularly valuable. Curve follows curve, radii, as if drawn with a compass. We continue through the Idrijca valley and in wide sweeps up to Tolmin, where only an inconspicuous hiking sign points to the Tolminka Gorge. The footpath narrows and disappears
soon in a narrow valley. The rock on the left and thick bushes on the right deny any view until suddenly I look up
standing on a narrow bridge. I almost feel dizzy.
60 meters below me, green water shoots down between narrow canyon walls. I have to correct my personal impression scale of the Slovenian gorges and put the Tolminka gorge first.
Twelve battles of the Isonzo took their toll. The blood toll of the World War II generation
Along the Soca, which has already created a considerably wide river bed in this region, I drive north again, take the small roads in the border area with Italy and finally let my carpenter in Kobarid persuade me to pay a visit to the local war museum . Twelve so-called
Isonzo battles cost around around during World War I.
Kobarid killed half a million soldiers. In this region the fate of Slovenia was decided. Surprisingly, despite the severe consequences of the war and the later incorporation of the Eastern Bloc, the museum shows the events of the war in a completely neutral manner.
Then I end up in Bovec again and the circle is complete. I have circled the Triglav once and want that
End tour the way I started it ?? with the Vr ?? ic pass. But the mountain shows that it can also have a different face. Within a few kilometers, wispy wisps of cloud slide over the ridge. Rain sets
one, and at the top of the pass the view is only a few meters. I let the Honda roll down carefully. When I’m almost down, the cloud cover suddenly cracks for you
Just a moment, a few rays of sunshine penetrate the gray like spotlights, briefly light up the wet rock walls and conjure up a shining rainbow over the mountains. For a few seconds the world seems to be different.
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Info – All around the Triglav mountain in the Alps
The Triglav National Park
spans almost the entire part of the Alps in Slovenia and offers landscapes and
High-end passes.
D stay overnight
There is a wide range of beds throughout the national park. Especially the proportion of
private rooms and apartments for self-catering has increased significantly in recent years. In the Socatal, in the small villages by Lake Bohinjsko, and in Kranjska Gora on the north side of the Vr ?? ic pass, there are many places to stay. Nevertheless, it can get tight in the high season from the beginning of July to the end of August. The prices for private rooms with breakfast are converted around 20 euros per person, apartments cost a little more depending on the equipment and occupancy. in the
Socatal, on the driveway to the Vr ?? ic pass and on Bohinjsko lake, a number of campsites are also open in the summer months. At the Vr ?? ic pass, you can spend the night in the large Ticjarev Dom mountain hut on the pass crossing.
D catering
Places to eat are called Gostílna or Gostí ?? ce. Their prices have increased with the increase in the
Tourism has increased in recent years-
moved, but are still on low
Level. The best beer in the country is called Lasko. Wine lovers should inquire about the white wines from the Jeruzalem area.
D worth seeing
First of all, the landscape in the national park
in all facets. Among them especially those
Vintgar Gorge near Spodnie Gorje and the Tolminka Gorge near Tolmin. The War Museum in Kobarid provides information about the war events in the First World War on the mountains around the Socatal. The Trenta house in Trenta in the upper Socatal brings you closer to nature in the national park through a multi-vision show in an interesting way ?? for example
the creation of the spectacular gorges through the millennia of grinding the water. It also provides information about the settlement and the way of life
in the area.
D activities
White water enthusiasts will get their money’s worth on the breathtakingly green Soca and its tributaries. Rafting tours can be booked in and around Bovec,
Kayak fans should turn to German canoe schools,
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