Table of contents
- Germany Marathon: Out and about in Schleswig-Holstein Full speed ahead in Schleswig-Holstein!
- Out and about in Schleswig-Holstein
- Kiel Canal the Suez Canal of the north
- Holstein Switzerland beckons
- A piece of history
- Info
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28 pictures
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Even more beautiful than the Suez Canal – and that in the middle of Schleswig-Holstein!
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And now off to the sea: free travel to Weibenhauser Beach.
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Eddelak, Edinburgh, El Dorado … No matter where the destination is: From Schleswig-Holstein it goes everywhere.
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Otherwise, however, the roads are mostly straight.
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However, it is too crowded in the small sandpit of Sankt Peter ording for real drifting.
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Driving fun on the beach – almost reminiscent of the desert landscape of the Sahara.
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After a long tour, a stop at a regional inn should of course not be missed.
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Canal Grande in Friedrichstadt an der Eider, which is characterized by the Dutch character.
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These and other cardboard friends can be found on the route from Husum to Niebull.
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Sheep farming in the far north.
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Udder meeting at Eutin: The land between the North Sea and the Baltic Sea is heavily influenced by agriculture.
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Also available as a holiday home: the Farver Muhle in Ostholstein.
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Abundant mast and sheet breakage in Heiligenhafen on the Wagrien peninsula.
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For such a sea view, it is worth getting off your motorcycle.
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The beach bar invites you to a cozy after-work beer.
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And they do exist: real slopes, here in Holstein Switzerland.
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The four-masted steel barque “Passat” Today serves as a museum and youth hostel in the calm waters.
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The size of the ships that enter Husum is impressive.
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Cruise along the canal at sunset.
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Wanderlust comes when you cross the Fehmarn Sound on the Vogelfluglinie.
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Where rivers flow, there have to be bridges.
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The old buildings in Husum.
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In the Husum harbor: get up close and personal with the ships.
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Studying the conventional map, or rather the nautical map: where to go to Dithmarschen?
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In the north one has already got used to the sight of the wind turbines.
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And they do exist: real inclines, here in Holstein Switzerland.
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The world as a guest: up close and personal with the pots on the Kiel Canal.
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Let the evening end comfortably.
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Germany marathon: Schleswig-Holstein
Germany Marathon: Out and about in Schleswig-Holstein
Full speed ahead in Schleswig-Holstein!
In Schleswig-Holstein there is nothing that doesn’t exist – even a ski lift. In the far north you don’t have to shy away from a comparison with the wide world. Dirk Schafer is roaming the land between the seas for the fifth part of the Germany Marathon.
Dirk Schafer
07/18/2013
Out and about in Schleswig-Holstein
Of course everyone wants to be special. Some people need money for it, others just an idea. You can find both in Schleswig-Holstein. The former, for example, on Sylt, the others perhaps as the initiators of the World Fish Roll Day. Or kitesurfing in Sankt Peter-Ording. The wind blows a few kites on the horizon as I ride the enduro onto the expansive beach. Ha, sand under the tunnels! And that in Germany! Almost southern France feelings arise. Not because of the high temperatures, but because here you can legally drive over stuck, littered beaches, as is often the case between Marseille and Spain. At least a few hundred meters.
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Until a number of pegs struck in the direction of the generosity of German freedom of movement. I could … It is a happy coincidence that the rough socks of the last trip to the Balkans are still spinning on the BMW. Bolting around in the small sandpit of Sankt Peter-Ording is of course prohibited with a view to sensitive tourists. Still, I can’t resist the immoral offer for a pretty little drift. Oh Sahara, are you far away! A similar thought seems to permeate the driver of a Land Rover. He is much less shy than me and paints the Olympic rings in the sand. The next flood will, like so many things, take them with it.
As long as the tide is still a long time coming, you can experience what is perhaps the most inconspicuous and often underestimated natural heritage of mankind: the tidal flats, the open border between land and sea. The Westerhever lighthouse tries to mark that very boundary. From land, only the tip of the Fresnel lens peeps out over the crest of the dike. The sun is already extinguishing its rays in the cool North Sea when I walk towards the beacon between bleating sheep and excited oystercatchers. The light reaches out over the evening sea for almost 40 kilometers. The walk that I have to cover to the origin of the glistening cone of light seems similar to me. But Germany’s most beautiful lighthouse with the two pointed hat houses next door deserves the little effort.
In the rising morning light, cows feast on the fresh green on the polders, which are called cows here. It was precisely these kings that prevented the proper alignment of the streets and paths. On the way to Friedrichstadt, the asphalt snaps abruptly every few hundred meters. The rare oncoming traffic forces me or him into the few escape points. If there are none, I force the enduro over the sward past tractors and delivery vans. It couldn’t be more bizarre on Scottish single trails.
Kiel Canal the Suez Canal of the north
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Eddelak, Edinburgh, El dorado … No matter where the destination is: From Schleswig-Holstein it goes everywhere.
Speaking of Scotland: have you ever been to the Suez Canal? Why do I ask that? Because the Suez Canal has the reputation that the ocean liners would sail through the sand there. They do too. Only because of the dams they are practically nowhere to be seen. But seeing overseas ships glide through fields and meadows is very easy and, above all, much closer. Along the supply routes of the Kiel Canal, I get up close and personal with the side of the big pots. No question about it, the Kiel Canal is not just the more beautiful Suez Canal. It is also longer than the Panama Canal. In any case, there are more ships sailing through any other artificial waterway on earth. And the almost 120-year-old canal goes one better in Rendsburg. Or rather: I ride on it. On the transporter bridge.
Where others build a bridge or let a ferry shuttle between the banks, the engineer Friedrich Voss planned both in the 19th century. A railway bridge and underneath a ferry that never gets into the water. The floating platform hangs on steel cables under the railway bridge and brings a couple of amazed New Zealanders and me to the southern side of the canal. Suddenly loud marching music can be heard across the water from the other bank. The ship greeting system plays the national anthem of Panama, the home of the next ship in the canal, and New Zealanders no longer understand the Schleswig-Holstein world.
Holstein Switzerland beckons
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And yet they do exist: real inclines, here in Holstein Switzerland.
I admit that – from a purely driving perspective – there is a risk of getting bored. The sky in baby blue, underneath the same woods or fields, the road as the shortest connection between two points. But rescue is near in Plon. Between the 16 lakes that belong to the watery city area, splendid roads branch off into the unexpectedly curvy paradise of Holstein Switzerland. I quickly compensate for the lack of inclines between Malente and Wangels, Lutjenburg and Hohwacht.
But there are other places that get the pulse racing. From Kirchnuchel to Bungsberg, the Mount Everest of Schleswig-Holstein, with a ski lift. And suddenly I’m back in Malente. How come …? Since Plon I only had a rough eye on the map. Without further ado, I switched off the light of the eternally omniscient GPS and simply let myself drift from one street to the next, instinctively sniffing out the curves. The unwanted circuit makes the reorientation – ideally with a fat coffee – necessary. And why not here in Malente?
Mairdumont / Werel
Germany’s northernmost state scores with secluded pleasure tours between the North Sea and the Baltic Sea as well as great sky panoramas.
Maybe I should have been more careful at the place name sign. I don’t just bend over the map and coffee cup in Malente, but in Bad Malente-Gremsmuhlen. Now it also becomes clear to me why this smell of 4711 and Tosca impregnates the bath air. The grandma odeur doesn’t even sell the almond cake, which will soon be added to coffee, first on the table and then in my stomach.
Reoriented, I pass under the puffy Baltic Sea clouds that pull in columns across the sky. Horse meadows fly by. Between a few rows of trees I sense the Baltic Sea and bump over cobblestones through the back door to Heiligenhafen. At first I don’t see anything of the saints or the port. Instead, a marching band marches lonely across the almost empty market square. Carnival without camels. At the marina there is a little more Halligalli. A mere 1000 ships are waiting for their leisure captains and the next trip through the Fehmarnsund. But nothing will come of it today. The skippers have to have dinner right away.
From Puttgarden’s Scandinavian ferries, there is a constant flow of vehicles to Fehmarn and onto the Vogelfluglinie. The north of Europe is suddenly within your grasp. But this time I swap the prospect of Scandinavian adventures for being able to follow the Baltic Sea through Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania. But first of all, well-known Baltic seaside resorts such as Kellenhusen and Gromitz are on the way. The road drifts through shady woods towards the rugged coast. As you can almost guess from the sound of the names, Kellenhusen is more into family Menorca, Gromitz more into full Lotte à la Gran Canaria. Whereby the noses are not carried as high here as on Sylt.
A piece of history
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Its light extends 40 kilometers out to sea: Westerheversand lighthouse.
With a steady breeze from the seaside, I drift southwards. The Scandinavian ferries still hang in my head like a pipe dream. When I’m almost gone, the chunky white silhouette of the hotel tower in Travemunde appears on the horizon. And there they are again, the Baltic Sea ferries that promise experiences in new countries. Why not give in to the urge? I steer for the next ferry and buy a ticket. Where? To the Priwall, the south side of the Trave estuary, in the direction of Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania. That too is the promise of a new land.
Now it’s only a few meters to the state border, which was once the state border. A few decades ago, GDR border guards eyed the nudist tourists from Travemunde here. It was precisely those who returned the favor with a view from the hotel tower behind the iron curtain. The hard metal has long since shaken off the curtain. On the other hand, it is now opening wide for the next stage of the Germany Marathon.
A narrow strip of asphalt winds its way through hedges and fields. The brown sign pointing to the division of Germany flies by, I only notice it out of the corner of my eye. Schleswig-Holstein, you are behind me. But, I wouldn’t have thought: You are really something special!
Info
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Studying the conventional map or, better still, the nautical map: what’s going on in Dithmarschen?
General
Capital: Kiel
Area: 15,799 km2
Foundation: 1946
Government: Coalition SPD, Greens and South Schleswig voters’ association
Population: 2,840000
Arrival / travel time
The start of the passage through Schleswig-Holstein is the Elbe ferry in Gluckstadt, around 50 km north of Hamburg. The fuel supply should be enough for 430 kilometers from Cologne or Erfurt. Munich is 850 km from Gluckstadt. With DB Autozug (www.dbautozug.de) the journey to Hamburg-Altona can be streamlined. Schleswig-Holstein has a mild climate and rapidly changing weather conditions. The wind, which repeatedly grabs the handlebars and driving straight ahead, deserves special attention
makes it almost impossible.
The distance
The route through the far north covers a smooth 700 kilometers. It is a mistake to believe that you would drive the tires square. At the latest, Holstein Switzerland presents itself as a worthwhile cornering area. Around Westerhever, the streets with little traffic have a Scottish single trail character. Avoidance points enable oncoming traffic to pass without any problems.
Stay
Far in the north – not only in the republic, but also in Schleswig-Holstein – Bergers Landgasthof awaits tired tourers. The double room with breakfast is available for 80 euros. Chef Uwe Berger drives himself and has tips for the region ready. The hotel is located at a former customs station in Plon, where travelers’ wallets were previously swept empty fegetasche.de. Particularly nice: a mild summer evening on the terrace with a view of the Edebergsee. Double room with breakfast from 80 euros.
activities
Anyone who is interested in other areas of technology in addition to motorcycle technology will find what they are looking for in Schleswig-Holstein. For example at the Rendsburg high bridge, on which the railway crosses the Kiel Canal and under which a transporter ferry runs. Or at the Eider Barrage, with which the North Sea flood is kept in check. Schleswig-Holstein without
Sailing ships is almost unimaginable. In addition to the Kiel Week in June, the Travemunde Week in July and the classic regattas in Laboe are worth visiting. If you want to hold the tiller in your hand yourself, there are courses for beginners at camp24-7.de.
cards
Marco Polo card “Schleswig-Holstein”, 1: 200000, 8.99 euros.
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