Table of contents
- Change the brake pads on the motorcycle Tips from professionals
- Cleaning tips
- Remove the brake pads
- Install the brake pads
- Retract the brake pads
- More about technology
Ralf Schneider
counselor
workshop
Guide to changing the brake pads on the motorcycle
Change the brake pads on the motorcycle
Tips from professionals
Changing the brake pads on the motorcycle is more time-consuming and complicated than simply checking the thickness of the lining. The screwdriver tip shows what needs to be considered.
Franz Josef Schermer
01/14/2018
If the brakes only reluctantly slowed down on the last trips in autumn and felt doughy, the winter break is the ideal time to devote yourself to the braking system (see also “Check brake pads” in MOTORRAD 24/2008).
The important things first
- Always change brake pads in pairs and wheels!
- A set of brake pads usually consists of two pieces per disc. Only in a few cases are small individual pads installed, i.e. one brake pad per brake piston – that can be up to six pieces per brake caliper.
- Never use brake pads of different thicknesses or different ages or from different manufacturers in one brake caliper! This also applies to double disc brakes in the front wheel: only the same types of pads with the same mileage are used on the left and right.
- If perforated disks or sheets made of steel or Teflon were mounted on the back of the old brake pads, they must be re-attached to the new brake pads in the same position in a clean condition. They keep some of the heat generated during braking away from the brake pistons and thus also from the brake fluid.
Tip: If you do not want to use original brake pads, ask your brand dealer first. He is well informed about the current status of retrofit coverings. Tests in motorcycles can also help with the choice. Used brake pads that are heavily soiled, have not been used for a long time or come from an accident machine should be replaced! Although the brake calipers usually do not have to be removed to change the pads, it is recommended because the inside of the brake caliper often needs thorough cleaning.
Cleaning tips
- DO NOT clean the brake caliper and brake discs with oil or oil spray, but use a special brake cleaner!
- Brake cleaner is aggressive and harmful to health: When using it, make sure that the workshop rooms are well ventilated. Do not smoke! Do not spray on the skin or in the eyes! Avoid breathing the vapors!
- When using brake cleaner, cover a large area of all parts around the brake calliper to be sprayed with a cloth.
- Use brake cleaner sparingly and in a targeted manner, point the spray head directly at the area to be cleaned and only press it briefly.
- Clean parts immediately after spraying with brake cleaner. Use a lint-free cloth and a small brush to do this.
- Do not blow out the brake calliper with hard compressed air! If at all: Use compressed air on the brake caliper only very sparingly and in a very targeted manner
- Brake dust is harmful to health!
Remove the brake pads
Jack up the motorcycle safely. Attention: Do not operate the brake lever when the brake caliper and / or the blocks are removed! Otherwise the brake pistons will extend unhindered and have to be laboriously pushed back into the brake calliper. They can even slide completely out of their holes.
Tip: When the old brake pads have been removed from the brake calliper and the brake pistons are still in their extended position, carefully clean the brake calliper. Only then press the pistons into their holes to make space for the new brake pads.
- Brake pad retaining pin: The brake pads are held in place by a “Retaining pin” held in the correct position in the caliper. This retaining pin is inserted or screwed and is always secured against unscrewing or falling out. This must be removed before the retaining pin is removed. The safety device can be a split pin that is pulled out, a grub screw that is unscrewed, or a small locking washer that is pulled off. It is best to buy new cotter pins or lock washers when buying new brake pads, as the old ones often no longer have the full tension – the screw, on the other hand, can still be used.
- If the retaining pin is only inserted, carefully knock it out with a split pin punch. Place the punch securely in the center of the retaining pin and drive out with short, light blows of the hammer. The retaining pin slips out bit by bit. If the retaining pin is screwed in, unscrew it.
- Pull the brake pads out of the brake calliper.
Install the brake pads
Caution: Do not insert any sharp-edged objects such as screwdrivers into the brake callipers, as this can scratch the piston sliding surfaces!
- To make room for the new (thick) pads, push the old brake pads back into the slot, press against them with hand force and thus push the brake pistons back into their holes. The whole thing has to be done by hand, no pliers or the like to help! When pushing back, the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir rises: therefore keep an eye on the level! If it rises to the top, suck off some liquid with a small syringe. Warning: brake fluid is aggressive and harmful to health. Therefore keep it away from skin and body, but also from paintwork and plastic! Work with gloves. Rinse away any drops with plenty of water.
- Apply special brake grease to the back of the carrier plates and the edges against which they rest in the brake calliper.
- Check whether the brake pad spring is correctly seated on the inside of the brake calliper: it must sit snugly – if an arrow is scratched, it must point in the direction of wheel rotation.
- Push the brake pads into the brake calliper. Sometimes the brake pads slide in a groove or guide on one or both sides. It is essential to ensure that the brake pads are correctly inserted into this guide.
- Insert the brake pad retaining pin through the outer hole in the brake calliper (if the brake pad spring is used on the outside of the brake pads: the arrow must point in the direction of travel).
- Push it through the holes in the brake pads, the brake pad spring and the other side of the brake calliper. For the threaded pin: screw this in.
- Screw in the counter-thread screw and counter it against the head of the retaining pin. Or insert the safety split pin (s). Or click the lock washer into the groove.
- Build up pressure in the system by pumping the brake lever until the new brake pads are in contact with the disc. Check the brake fluid level and top up if necessary (refer to the specification in the operating manual). The brake is only ready for operation when you clearly feel the pressure point!
Retract the brake pads
Under no circumstances should new brake pads be used to their maximum performance when braking for the first time, they have to be run in carefully and with feeling. The run-in time should be 100 to 150 kilometers. During this time:
- Do not apply the brake “dragging” for a long time, but brake briefly and crisply.
- Don’t brake “against the engine” running in, that damages the new brake pads: their surface becomes hot and glazed.
- Give enough time to cool down after each brake deceleration.
- Longer braking should be avoided during the running-in period, but is sometimes necessary in traffic: After one “longer, heavy braking” do not stop with the brake applied, but release again when you stop.
After a while the brakes grip more and more tightly, the braking feeling is nice and transparent. The brake is now fully operational.
More about technology
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