Motorcycle enduro tour from Berlin to the Baltic Sea: Mark Brandenburg

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Motorcycle enduro tour from Berlin to the Baltic Sea: Mark Brandenburg
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Motorcycle enduro tour from Berlin to the Baltic Sea: Mark Brandenburg

Motorcycle enduro tour Brandenburg
Enduro tour through the Mark Brandenburg

It is barely 170 km as the crow flies from Berlin to the Baltic Sea. But if you want to cover this distance off-road on the basis of forgotten village connecting roads, it can easily turn into a longer adventure. Protocol of an exotic route through Brandenburg, Uckermark and Western Pomerania.

Markus Biebricher

07/05/2012

Enduro tour Brandenburg

Our “Sound of singles” penetrates through the Brandenburg pine forest, in which, according to the local press, more and more real wolves are getting lost. The wild east of Germany has a lot to offer enduro riders right from the start. Everywhere in the outskirts of the capital one encounters military and occupation history from the 30s to the 90s of the last century. And on real sand dunes. Later and further north are Theodor Fontane with his “Walks through the Mark Brandenburg” or the Oder-Neisse cycle path is our companion. In the greater Berlin area you cannot go completely without asphalt, but the compass needle points in the direction of Poland and Oderbruch, where all of the developed roads end. In the Brandenburg sand, we make further driving tests, always with the north-south axis in mind.

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At the Oderbruch we meet the “mountain range” Barnim, who has formed a small edge in the Oder landscape behind his plateau. That is why a monstrous ship lift was built for inland navigation in Niederfinow in the 1930s, the steel rivet construction of which is one of the historical landmarks of engineering. A new elevator is already under construction.


Motorcycle enduro tour from Berlin to the Baltic Sea: Mark Brandenburg


Golletz

Pure solitude: secluded forest paths in the Polish border area.

Through the Schorfheide biosphere reserve, we look for our unsigned route to the north and find what we are looking for on wild and romantic cobblestone streets. This is where the enduro chassis really get something to do. For local conditions it is really steep in Liepe “Plateau” of Barnim. Afterwards, you will soon walk down slowly to Pehlitzwerder, where there are also two nostalgic campsites from Eastern times that are well worth visiting. In Schwedt it is halftime for our tour, and after twelve hours in the saddle it is exactly what you need. Off-roading takes time, but it often brings unforgettable experiences.

The next day we want to know what slopes Poland has to offer. After a little loop to the Uuckmark tobacco museum in Vierraden and an unsuccessful attempt to penetrate the Oderbruch alluvial land, we take the Oder Bridge to Poland. The expanded border installations have not been in use since the Schengen Agreement in 2007. Old, yellowed wanted posters are still hanging in the windows. Since we were all abstinent from Poland for a long time, we are amazed at the hustle and bustle and the Polish market on the border: vegetables, tobacco and alcohol are offered at ridiculous prices. No wonder that the lower fuel price is the “small border traffic” makes it attractive for Wessis and Ossis. We drive through the last villages in Poland before the German border to finally get gravel under our wheels again. The very blonde in her mid-thirties in the kiosk wears a smock apron and pays us the change in zloty. As in Denmark and England, the single currency has not yet arrived here. In the border area it goes over slippery dirt roads, where many children play happily in the dirt, while the old people go about their manual work in the neighboring field. The muddy village connection path near Ognica mutates into a sandy slope that disappears a little later in the dense beech forest.


Motorcycle enduro tour from Berlin to the Baltic Sea: Mark Brandenburg


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the “Teupitz desert”, Brandeburg sand as far as the eye can see.

A few connecting paths, a rain shower and several kilometers of pistes further we find ourselves on what feels like the longest cobblestone avenue in Eastern Germany: between Glashutte and Ludwigshof, this kidney and chassis stretches as it were maltreating slope. The scent of the sea gradually mingles with the scent of pine, and after almost two days of Endurado we are a bit surprised to see the first Baltic foothills. The sea at Neuwarper See mixes with pent-up fresh water from the Peene and Oder and thus becomes a lagoon or lagoon. There is hardly any tourism here, hardly any roads noteworthy – it is the furthest corner of the republic and the last corner of Western Pomerania.

We continue on the historic Oder-Neisse cycle path to Ueckermunde, where we encounter a tourist infrastructure again for the first time. A refreshing bath in the still cool Szczecin Lagoon is necessary to wash off the dust of the past 350 kilometers.

On the way to Usedom, a mighty sea eagle and arctic tern repeatedly announce the proximity to the Baltic Sea. Should this still be Germany? A dead forest with hundreds of cormorants is more reminiscent of Madagascar in the purple evening mood. On both sides of the mysterious dam on which we chug between a flooded meadow and a dying forest, the brackish water creates a new biotope. So we approach the dead straight embankment of the Karnin railway lift bridge, which was destroyed in the war and which once connected Usedom near Karnin and Kamp with the mainland. When there was shipping traffic on the Peene River, its middle section, including the rail, could be raised 25 meters. Only when we arrive at the old bridgehead do we realize that we are on the former railway embankment the whole time. Via a secret back entrance we come to one of the most poorly developed sights on Western Pomerania’s coast.


Motorcycle enduro tour from Berlin to the Baltic Sea: Mark Brandenburg


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On Top of Seebad Ahlbeck: a summer you will never forget.

We made an appointment with Arne, a friend of Usedom, at the railway lift bridge in Karnin. Unfortunately, something goes wrong: 500 meters away he waves to us with his cell phone in hand from the Usedom side – we are at the bridgehead on the mainland side. A cursory glance at the route planner says something about 7.8 kilometers detour – so go! The next place is called Anklamer Ferry. Past a milking farmer’s wife, dusty paths lead into a cul-de-sac, where an elderly man is preparing the cozy barbecue evening. He gives us to understand that we are not the first to get lost in his backyard, because there has never been a ferry in Anklamer Ferry. The place is just called that. The real detour is almost 30 kilometers long, but leads up to the Hanseatic city of Anklam over hill and dale along the Oder-Neisse cycle path, most of which is open to motorized traffic.

The Usedom side of the bridge is much livelier, and Arne gives us a cup of sweet Fassbrause each, which is also used in the region “Lollipop spit” is called, welcomed. In the small harbor, this fine wine is tapped from a red Trabi engine. We can hardly wait to slide down the side streets and genuine Usedom cobblestones with a good layer of sand to the long-awaited Baltic Sea beach. Like Sahara travelers arriving at the sea, we plunge into the shallow waters of the Baltic Sea between beach chairs and piers. It’s done: Berlin – Baltic Sea in two days instead of two hours and proof that you can still experience real adventures in a fully planned Germany.

Information and tour tips


Motorcycle enduro tour from Berlin to the Baltic Sea: Mark Brandenburg


Golletz

Completely legal tour for enduro hikers who enjoy scouting and are not afraid of sand passages. Driving in harmony with nature is hardly possible in Germany.

General:
Since the Schengen Agreement was ratified, there have been no more significant controls at the Polish border. Passing the green border is also possible without any problems. Poland has not yet introduced the euro despite EU membership (one euro equals four Polish zlotys). There is a Polish market at every border crossing, and many Germans stock up on alcohol, tobacco, food and gasoline here. Since mid-2007, there has been an absolute alcohol ban on Polish road traffic. Nevertheless, Poland has four times more accidents than Germany. Brandenburg and Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania are “sand piste countries” from the enduro driver’s point of view. In the Oderbruch it gets earthier, and you need stamina for rough cobblestone passages. Nevertheless, the described tour can be mastered with normal road enduro tires if necessary. Away from the rare cities, you should look for a gas station in good time.

Equipment:
General map, hiking maps and optional navigation device, if possible a coarser tire profile – that’s the stuff of Enduro dreams. Interesting for novice drivers in sand: the wetter the sand (often the case in the east), the more grip it offers. Enduro boots to protect against inevitable falls and falls should be mandatory. An aerial photo check with Google Earth is also helpful, as is a GPS device (if possible with topo or open street map maps) for difficult terrain. The author recommends the general map of Germany (sheets 7 and 3 from the current ADAC map set, 14.95 euros). Furthermore, hiking maps on a scale of 1:50 000 (state survey offices) or the ADFC bike maps (www.adfc.de).


Motorcycle enduro tour from Berlin to the Baltic Sea: Mark Brandenburg


Werel / Mairdumont

Tour through Brandenburg: 400 kilometers in two days.

Stay:
Accommodation in the border region is rare, but the author recommends the Andersen Hotel Schwedt / Oder near the Polish border, Gartenstrasse 9-11, Am Karlsplatz in 16303 Schwedt. Telephone 0 33 32/2 91 10 or www.andersen-hotel.de. A garage is available. The campsite recommendation is: Natur / Familiencampingplatz Pehlitzwerder (camping by the lake with GDR tradition), 16230 Chorin, OT Brodowin, phone 03 3362/284, open from March to October.

Travel time:
Spring to autumn, ideally during the summer months, you should think of mosquito repellent here. While there is a typically continental climate in the Berlin area, it can be cool and windy on the coast in spring and autumn. Useful: car train connection from Munich-East to Berlin-Wannsee. Information at www.dbautozug.de, phone 0180/5996633.

Sightseeing features:
Niederfinow ship lift on the Oderbruch (www.schiffshebewerk-niederfinow.info). Oderbruch: a 60-kilometer-long trailing edge, the 30-meter-long plains of which are threatened by flooding. The Lower Oder Valley National Park can be explored on foot or by canoe. The road and the view from Falkenberg and Liepe are interesting for off-road driving. Tobacco Museum Vierraden: Because of the mild climate, tobacco traditionally grows in the region around Schwedt / Uckermark. On Usedom: Karniner railway lift bridge, technology and two-wheel museum Dargen.

Addresses:
www.reiseland-brandenburg.de, www.oder-neisse-radweg.de (information for motorcyclists), www.auf-nach-mv.de, www.museumdargen.de

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