Table of contents
- On the road in Cyprus by motorcycle Curved roads and countless legal slopes
- Enduro paradise Akamas
- The absurdity of the divided country
- On Sundays when the moon is full, naked around the rock
- Info
Deleker
22nd pictures
Deleker
1/22
The myth of Aphrodite, the goddess of love, ruled life in Cyprus for 2,700 years. Especially the mind of men.
Deleker
2/22
Turquoise is not only the sea, but also the shutters.
Deleker
3/22
At the end of November Cyprus is dead and we have the mountain roads to ourselves.
Deleker
4/22
Cyprus is a blank slate among motorcyclists. The third largest island in the Mediterranean does not have to hide behind the typical early winter destinations.
Deleker
5/22
The maritime, rural architectural style has its charm.
Deleker
6/22
Cyprus is the last divided country in Europe. When the British colonial rulers granted sovereignty to the island in 1960, the Turkish and Greek ethnic groups still lived together peacefully.
Deleker
7/22
But politicians and other power-obsessed fueled hostilities that escalated into civil war in 1964.
Deleker
8/22
The destruction of the war can still be found today not only in the countryside, but also in the cities.
Deleker
9/22
The climate for motorcycling is pleasant between mid-October and mid-December and from March to May.
Deleker
10/22
The lemons ripen on the trees.
Deleker
11/22
Typical street scene in North Nicosia.
Deleker
12/22
The 450-year-old Buyuk Han caravanserai in North Nicosia is one of the most atmospheric buildings on the island.
Deleker
13/22
Wild hairpin bends cut through the Troodos Mountains.
Deleker
14/22
The uninhabited Arkamas peninsula in the northwest was a war playground for the British Army until the turn of the millennium. Since the withdrawn, conservationists and speculators have been arguing about what should become of Akamas.
Deleker
15/22
The land overgrown by macchia is still an enduro paradise. There is no asphalt, but a maze of slopes. Land of discovery.
Deleker
16/22
The landscape almost feels like a jungle.
Deleker
17/22
Aphrodite shaped the history of Cyprus, but statues of her are rare. Here’s one on the Akamas Peninsula.
Deleker
18/22
Old town of North Nicosia: It could tell a lot, but its audience expects more culinary attention.
Deleker
19/22
The sea lights up turquoise.
Deleker
20/22
Clouds are looming off the coast of Cyprus.
Deleker
21/22
A walk on the beach is worthwhile considering the extraordinary coastal landscape.
Deleker
22/22
At Petra toú Romioú, Aphrodite is said to have emerged stark naked from the sea 2,700 years ago. Since then, the myth of the promise of beauty and eternal youth has persisted. The recipe for this: On Sundays, when the moon is full, you have to swim naked around a certain rock in the bay. It’s a shame that today is Wednesday and the new moon…
to travel
Motorcycle tour Cyprus
On the road in Cyprus by motorcycle
Curved roads and countless legal slopes
Cyprus is the ideal land of discovery for motorcyclists: Countless legal slopes and winding roads cut through wild, lonely nature. Far beyond pure driving pleasure, the traces of the island’s eventful history provide goose bumps.
Joachim Deleker
December 19, 2013
The times have changed. The myth of Aphrodite, the goddess of love, ruled life in Cyprus for 2,700 years. Especially the mind of men. Today another name dominates the discussions of the islanders: the Troika. The triumvirate of EU bureaucrats in fine dark suits is shoved into their black shoes, just as if the troika wanted to destroy the island and not save it from bankruptcy. At least that is what the front pages of the newspapers that Werner and I stumble upon when we land in Larnaka pray down. The island is geared towards package travelers, which makes it difficult to find accommodation spontaneously. So we booked an “original Cypriot country house” at Pólis as a base camp in advance. A direct hit. The old rustic stone villa stands on a hill with ample views high above the bay of Chrysochoú in the northwest of the island.
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Early the next morning we are in Páfos, picking up the reserved enduros from Costas, a Kawasaki KLR 650 and a Suzuki DR 350. Robust machines that do not hide their experience as rental mopeds. But what do scratches bother us, the main thing is that they drive sensibly. Our plan for the little winter escape is simple: ten days of relaxed touring in the warmth and finding the most exciting roads. A look at the map makes it clear that these routes must be in the almost 2000 meter high Troodos Mountains.
Enduro paradise Akamas
But there are fat dark clouds lounging around. “It’ll be better tomorrow,” oracles Costas. “Go to Akamas today, it’s always nice there and the slopes are great.” The uninhabited peninsula in the northwest was a war playground for the British Army until the turn of the millennium. Since the withdrawn, conservationists and speculators argue about what should become of Akamas. Will you establish the island’s first national park or will you win the felt from corruption and plasticine that wants to concretize the coast with more hotels for the newly rich Russians and Chinese? The land overgrown by macchia is still an enduro paradise. There is no asphalt, but a maze of slopes. Land of discovery.
We rumble northwards on a rough track with our stews, we are all alone in the open country. The path snuggles up close to the stony coast, then climbs into the mountains. Deep erosion channels demand the enduros’ taker qualities. Paths branch off again and again, climb on hilltops with a view or end humorlessly in the bushes. We hadn’t imagined Cyprus to be so wild and lonely. On the left the turquoise sea of the west coast shines, on the right the bay of Pólis glistens. The runway rolls down to the north coast. Steep and furrowed ascents and descents, sometimes garnished with deep brown puddles, stony and rocky. This is not a beginner’s area.
The absurdity of the divided country
The next day, dark thunderclouds lie over the mountains further inside. But at the sea the sun shines at 21 degrees. Let’s reschedule, follow the E 704 along the coast and aim for the Turkish part of the island. The whole absurdity of the divided country becomes clear in Kokkina, a small town by the sea occupied by Turks. The direct road to the border is forbidden terrain. Instead, we are allowed to drive around the place widely on a fine mountain road, see the Turkish army positions down in Kokkina, a buffer zone in the pine forest marked with barbed wire and watchtowers, which is held by bored Argentine UN soldiers who are in turn guarded by Cypriot positions.
The border crossing into the Turkish north of the island is quick and friendly. 20 euros for motorcycle insurance, a stamp on the immigration slip, and off you go. To another country: mosques instead of churches, only men sit in the cafes, and the Turkish flag is waving everywhere. As in the Greek part, left-hand traffic is a consequence of British colonial rule. The ugly access road to the picturesque coastal town of Cyreneia, which the Turks call Girne, is lined with car dealerships, workshops, casinos and night clubs. They are very popular with men from Turkey. For them this must be a paradise, Allah will turn a blind eye …
Deleker
The 450 year old Buyuk Han caravanserai in North Nicosia is one of the most atmospheric buildings on the island.
A country full of contradictions, which we particularly notice in the capital Nicosia. In the Turkish sector, we are surprised by the picturesque old town, partly perfectly restored, then littered with bullet holes from the war. The most beautiful building on the island is the 450-year-old Buyuk Han caravanserai: an arcade-lined inner courtyard, carefully tended and brought back to life thanks to many small shops. Beyond the secured border that cuts through the middle of Nicosia welcomes us
the hectic capital of the south with skyscrapers, department store chains and traffic jams.
We are happy to be able to drive the enduro bikes back to Pólis. Time to reflect on the violent division of the island, which has been going on for 40 years. Then finally off to the mountains, which kindly got rid of the fat clouds.
At the end of November Cyprus is dead and we have the mountain roads to ourselves. Good this way. The F 723 is awesome, curves without end, papered with non-slip carpeting. Curve by curve we pretzel higher, crack the 1000 meter mark. In between a strong coffee in the nice mountain village of Pedoulas, and the dance goes on. The higher we swing, the lighter the pine forest becomes until only 500-year-old black pines stretch their gnarled branches into the sky around the summit of the 1951-meter-high Olympus, which is disfigured with ski lifts and radio antennas.
On Sundays when the moon is full, naked around the rock
The view is terrific. Dozens of mountain ranges are staggered in the warm, hazy afternoon light. Far to the north the sea glistens. The finest roads wind through the forests around the highest mountain on the island. It takes a few days to discover them all. And then there is a confusing network of forest trails, fun slopes, almost all of which are legal. The card often helps, but not always. If we hit dead ends, we turn around and look for new leads. On the way we meet ruined villages like Vretsia. Turkish Cypriots who were forcibly displaced during the dark civil war of the 1960s and 1970s lived here.
At some point we reach a tarred road and just go downhill. We reach the south coast at Petra toú Romioú. This is exactly where Aphrodite is said to have emerged stark naked from the sea 2,700 years ago. As the queen of love, she charmed countless Greek beauties. Since then, the myth of the promise of beauty and eternal youth has persisted. The recipe for this: You have to swim naked around a certain rock in the bay when the moon is full on Sundays. It’s a shame that today is Wednesday and the new moon…
Info
Cyprus is a blank slate among motorcyclists. The third largest island in the Mediterranean does not have to hide behind the typical early winter destinations.
country
Capital: Nicosia
Area: 9250 km²
Population: 1.1 million
Highest mountain: Olympos, 1951 meters
Currency: Euro and Turkish Lira
Story: Cyprus is the last divided country in Europe. When the British colonial rulers granted sovereignty to the island in 1960, the Turkish and Greek ethnic groups still lived together peacefully. But politicians and other power-obsessed fueled hostilities that escalated into civil war in 1964. UN soldiers tried in vain to prevent mutual killings. The Greeks drove the Turks to the north, the Turks in turn drove the Greeks to the south. In 1974 the Greek military junta instigated a coup in Nicosia, whereupon the Turkish army marched into the north. On August 16, 1974 the peace treaty ended the war, but also cemented the division of the island into two zones. The Republic of Cyprus (southern Greece) has been part of the EU since 2004. The northern part of the island is only recognized as an independent state by Turkey, but is in fact a Turkish exclave.
getting there & Travel time: During the main travel season, numerous charter planes head for the island from various German airports. In the winter months only Air Cyprus flies directly from Frankfurt to Larnaka. Tickets are available from 500 euros. Summers in Cyprus are hot and dry. The climate for motorcycling is pleasant between mid-October and mid-December and from March to May. The rainy winter months are less suitable for motorcycle tours.
Accommodation: Cyprus is almost entirely geared towards bathing holidaymakers traveling on a flat-rate basis. The spontaneous search for a room can turn into a game of patience because there are hardly any guest houses or small hotels. In recent years, more and more old Cypriot country houses have been converted into rustic and cozy accommodations. Information at www.agrotourism.com.cy or enter “Cypriot villas” as a search term on the Internet.
Documents & Money: South Cyprus is part of the EU. An identity card is sufficient for entry, it is paid in euros. A passport is required for Northern Cyprus, the currency is the Turkish Lira.
Rent a motorcycle: There are three rental companies in Pafós and Pólis, plus countless rental stations for small scooters in the tourist centers. We had the best experience with TT-Isle of Man-Rentals in Páfos. The committed boss Costas offers, for example, Suzuki DR 350, Kawasaki KLR 650 and Honda Transalp at a daily price of 30 euros. English-language information at www.ttisleofmanrentals-cyprus.com. The other two rental companies can be found at www.goldenriderrentals.com and www.cyprus-rent-a-car.info.
literature & Info: The author recommends the Cyprus travel guide from Michael Muller Verlag. Other good travel guides come from Reise-Know-How and Lonely Planet. The DuMont Bildatlas Cyprus is ideal for getting in the mood at home. The map of Cyprus from the Verlag Reise-Know-How is very reliable on a detailed scale of 1: 150,000. Information is available from the Cyprus Tourist Board (www.visitcyprus.org.cy) or on the Internet at www.ratgeber-zonien.de, www .cyprus-information.com, www.nordz Demokratie-touristik.de.
Travel time: two weeks
Distance covered: 1500 kilometers
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