Table of contents
- Get the motorcycle to run after a long period of idle time Tips and Tricks
- Drain the fuel from the float chamber
- Accelerate two or three times before starting
- Fitness and clothing
fact
20th pictures
mps photo studio
1/20
MOTORRAD test winner cleaning kit MOTORRAD 1/2014: The high-pressure cleaner Nilfisk C 110.4X-TRA impresses with good workmanship and low volume. 89.99 euros.
fact
2/20
Go through everything in peace: Is the lever set correctly? General inspection (“TuV”) due? And some fitness training: off your bike, that trains your reflexes!
Buse
3/20
New for the start of the season: The PVC protective cover should be resistant to cold and heat, pack up in an ultra-compact manner and be easily attached to the motorcycle using fastening straps with a clip lock. Provider: Buse, phone 0 24 71/126 90, www.buese.com.
polo
4/20
New for the start of the season: As an alternative to the brake disc lock, Grip-Lock (59 euros) protects against theft directly on the handlebars by blocking the throttle and brake. Information at www.grip-lock.com.
Givi
5/20
New at the start of the season: The new Airoh helmet GP500 Loris Capirossi Replica (sizes: XS to XL) is as colorful as spring. Weighs 1250 g, costs 599.95 euros. Information at www.jopa.nl.
LSL
6/20
New at the start of the season: Do you want to pimp a moped? Outfitter LSL – phone 0 21 51/5 55 90, www.lsl.eu – brings his new one in time for the 2015 season
Catalog (116 pages).
Motorsport
7/20
New at the start of the season: the new sporty retro jacket Chica by Difi could be worth trying on for fashion-conscious women motorcycle riders. The leather jacket is available in German women sizes 34 to 46 for 259.95 euros. There are pockets for CE protectors, but retrofitting costs around 45 euros extra. Provider: Motoport, phone 0 44 56/89 95 71 00, www.motoport.de.
mps photo studio
8/20
MOTORRAD test winner cleaning kit MOTORRAD 23/2014: Helmet and station wagon can be rid of bad stench with the Remair odor killer for 9.95 euros.
mps photo studio
9/20
MOTORRAD test winner cleaning kit MOTORRAD 26/2014: can be used sparingly, cleans great – S 100 chain cleaner. Kraft gel for 11.99 euros.
fact
10/20
Chain: Check slack at various points, clean and lubricate. And not just before the tour – the chain spray should flash off for at least 30 minutes.
fact
11/20
Brake fluid: attracts water, ages – and in extreme cases this can lead to brake failure. Best to change every two years. Brake lines porous or even leaky?
fact
12/20
Tips for the start of the season.
fact
13/20
Washing: Even under the best tarpaulin, dust, insect droppings and rust film can affect your baby. If you start the fitness program with a complete cleaning, you can best see where there is a need for action.
fact
14/20
Oil inspection: first look under the motorcycle – telltale stains? Second look at the oil dipstick or sight glass – correct position? Third action: oil change after a test drive.
fact
15/20
light & Co: Check parking lights, low beam and high beam, headlight flasher, indicators, horn and, if necessary, hazard warning lights as well as rear and brake lights while the engine is running.
fact
16/20
Battery: check the fluid level of conventional lead-acid batteries. When installing, always connect the positive pole first and the negative pole last.
fact
17/20
Brake pads: Functional test is best when pushing – if something is grinding, if the pistons are stuck, the pad thickness is still sufficient?
fact
18/20
Tire tread: Legislators only stipulate a minimum tread depth of 1.6 millimeters, but that is not enough for practical use. Infrequent drivers also pay attention to cracked tire walls.
fact
19/20
Tire pressure: Even the best tire loses pressure over the winter break. 1 bar loss can come together. The correct value always applies to cold tires, so check before the first tour and correct if necessary.
mps photo studio
20/20
MOTORRAD test winner cleaning kit MOTORRAD 23/2014: Don’t scratch, please! The Dr. O. K. Wack A1 Nano Scratch Polish for a good 13 euros is also suitable for inexperienced users.
counselor
workshop
Bring the motorcycle to run after it has not been parked for a long time
Get the motorcycle to run after a long period of idle time
Tips and Tricks
If your motorcycle seems to have slept a little after a long period of idle time, this is completely normal. Give the machine a little time to wake up, let it have a quiet shower and strengthen itself before it can start.
Thorsten Dentges
05.03.2015
A thorough wash will wake up even the most weary of minds. With older motorcycles, even after a long period of time, one or the other joint is a bit rusty – so you shouldn’t count on an absolutely fit base that is happy about every sprint and marathon stage from zero to. No, specific preparation is required. It is better to first remove the dust in peace and quiet and check the machine for defects with a magnifying glass.
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Tips and Tricks
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Fortunately, this has been a very manageable affair for a good two decades: aluminum and plastic tanks, exhaust systems made of stainless steel, injection and low-maintenance batteries are now standard equipment and, after a long period of time, usually make extensive vehicle maintenance unnecessary. Nevertheless, it makes sense to keep the technology at the best possible level in order to ensure high reliability and good value retention. The time investment for this: a relaxed morning. The monetary expense: also low, because cleaning agents, oil and any necessary spare parts such as new brake pads do not cost the world.
Drain the fuel from the float chamber
So, let’s go with the check! First you should look at the right handlebar fitting, the kill switch. You wouldn’t be the first to search like crazy for the fault for the damned starting problem and to remove and reinstall the battery several times. Although only the switch from “Off” – to “Run” should have been turned. But it is all too human that when maneuvering in the garage or adding accessories, one has to press the button unnoticed at some point during the winter break. It is just as easy to overlook a defective main fuse, which while tinkering around in the hobby workshop out of carelessness (keyword “mass”) fulfilled its protective task, but paid for it with life. Never mind, just switch, and electricity should flow again.
But there are other problems lurking. The starter knocks, and yet the engine does not want to start? There are probably problems with the fuel supply. For motorcycles with carburettors, people tend to forget to let the fuel out of the float chamber if they are to be parked for a long time. The remaining fuel loses a large part of its ignitability during long storage in the chambers and can even clog the carburetor nozzles during decomposition processes. Then the carburetor must be removed and completely cleaned in the ultrasonic bath. Annoying. Before you panic cart the motorcycle to the next workshop, try the following: Empty the float chamber (depending on accessibility in a few minutes), spray in the starter spray and start the engine again. Often it works.
Accelerate two or three times before starting
Since the switch to the comparatively strict Euro 3 emissions standard in 2006 at the latest, almost all of the younger machines have been running with injection, but this is still a big issue for older sweethearts, which are also used as a second motorcycle to be loved. With the injectors, fumbling around with the float chamber is a thing of the past, and the engine starts even after a long period of inactivity – but there is no rule without exception. Fuel does not last forever and can cause starting problems even with injection engines after months of downtime, for example when dissolved gasoline components stick to the injection valves. Or the fuel attracts water, which settles on the bottom of the tank, where it is tapped. If the engine runs extremely unevenly, the tank sometimes has to be emptied and fresh fuel with fuel system cleaner added. If it is more serious, the plan is to remove and clean the system. This is more of a job for professionals than for hobby mechanics. However, this worst-case scenario is rather the exception; injectors usually cope well with even half-year breaks.
But there is one special feature that should also be observed with modern machines: If the battery has been disconnected, you should accelerate two or three times with the ignition switched on, but before pressing the starter button. Why this? Because the engine control unit has to readjust itself and the procedure described makes it easier for it to acquire signals from the throttle valve potentiometer. Incidentally, it is quite normal that injection engines need a few moments after a restart to find their rhythm. So, nothing stands in the way of the start of the first tour. Electricity, fuel, air and light are all right, the engine is babbling with satisfaction, and all other checkpoints for extermination have been completed.
Fitness and clothing
But there is more to perfect preparation for the season than just a technical check. You should ask yourself critically: Am I just as fit as the machine? A few gymnastic exercises do no harm, and jogging or cycling increase endurance and thus the long-lasting ability to concentrate that is necessary for safe motorcycling. Cycling also promotes the sense of balance. A quick clothing check is also not a mistake – a new helmet might be necessary?
And one more thing: it is better not to lay out the first tour too hard and to enter it relaxed, but concentrated and carefully. Attention, most accidents do not happen on the first weekend of the season, but only three or four weeks later, when you have got used to driving again! Despite all the spring fever: To overdo it in exuberance is just as dangerous as to get too sleepy on a motorcycle after a long break.
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