Posted on 08.04.2019 by admin

Ariège, Earth courage! (duo)

September 1999The motto of the department, widely proclaimed along the roads – "Ariège, Terre courage" -, is likely to inspire the poet biker with the following precision: "Terre courage, Routes peutves"…

ROADS

IN SHORT

Stroll words:

"Te, today there is hardly that the Parisiengue which does not claim its independence!"
(a table of Marseillais in a restaurant in St Girons)

"Yeah the SV 650 works hard, but you have to install aviators hoses"
(an SV 650 at Oloron)

"In Fougères they were less stupid, they had built their castle in the valley!"
(a tourist breathless by the climb up the hill to the Château de Montsegur)

"Oh yes in the region there are plenty of things to see, like the Dune du Pylat or the Ile de Re"
(a waiter in a bar, questioned about the possibilities of walks in Ariège)

"The Apocalypse scheduled for August 11 is also transferred to a later date, due to the health of the grand master"
(a poster on a wall in Argelès-Gazost, signed "Le Commando Fada"

Walk readings:
"(…) Obtaining power by turning the mill full pot is within the reach of any manufacturer, keeping it intact at low speed is on the other hand the mark of the greats. The English had pushed this art to the point of to come close to perfection. Their bikes were the only ones to give bike junkies that slap that shoots your kidneys as soon as you turn on the throttle. In biker jargon, it was called the kick in the ass and climb on a motorcycle unable to seriously kick your ass was about as exciting as chewing on an acid-free blotter. (…) "
("The Octopus: Stop the tiling" by Patrick Raynal, Editions Librio, 10 FF)

E.M.

A SUMMER 99 ON THE ROAD (3)
Ariège, Earth courage !
Back from a 3-week station wagon after 4,600 km of asphalt riding a 900 Trophy weighted down by my favorite passenger, the best plans from Moto-Net. 3rd part.

Earth courage, roads can be !

The motto of the department, widely proclaimed along the roads – "Ariège, Terre courage" -, is likely to inspire the poet biker with the following precision: "Terre courage, Routes peutves". Most of the departmental roads are indeed rather rock’n roll, and it is rare to be able to enjoy a drinkable portion over more than 300 m … But it does not matter: it is a splendid, wild, mountainous region just what it must, and abundantly watered by countless streams. A bit like in Lozère, but more mountainous. The D618 in repair, which will delight fans of taking "rustic" angles (joking gravel, hazardous signage of bends), sneaks up to St Girons, a small sub-prefect which has the advantage of being located in the heart of our new playground. The city seems to have known its heyday (see the beautiful facades of the Grand Hôtel de France and the Hôtel de Union), but has been bleeding steadily since the closure of the tungsten mines. The hoteliers continue to blow their heads a little, like this ex-Parigot from the 15th arrondissement who asks for 300 balls for a completely lame room (to spend the night, better to push up to Massat over there D618). As for the charming "Restaurant ariegeois", it has been closed for a long time. All that remains are pizzerias with a shovel, and an excellent fish restaurant (Grand Hôtel de France). You can also discover in some bars a rather good craft beer, the Payenne (white, red or brown), brewed at the Ferme du Bocage (31310). Market days, St Girons takes on the appearance of Kathmandu rustic, where the mix of old Ariège peasants and young techno zither players creates a rather striking contrast. Ariège has indeed preserved a lot of traces of neo-rural people of the 1970s – or of their descendants? -, who repair barns and sell goat cheese. It must be said that the Ariegeois are rather open and friendly: here, even the old trout fishermen, posted by the side of the road in the open countryside, signal to you that there are cops at the next crossroads. !

"Moujghaligora Tidolou Parisiagou?"

There, I admit that the question left me perplexed. Certainly, in some somewhat remote corners of the Ariège, the sight of a 75 plate is in itself a mini event that should be watered as it should, especially when it is placed on a 900 Trophy parked in front of the only bar in the village (Oust, the village). But there, after having made it repeat 3 times, impossible to answer anything other than "yes yes" or "no no", with a detached air, to this little old man with the beret screwed on the head who, barely come down from his sky blue Diane, was already catching the half handed to him by the boss … Oust, if you have not been able to establish contact with the native, you will be able to join Seix (a free subscription to the first one that teaches me what the inhabitants of Seix), then Castillon en Couserans over there D17 and the Col de la Core (1395 m). Magnificent panorama over the valley of Bethmale (delicious cheese). If your strength, courage or the suspensions of your motorcycle allow it, buckle the loop by the Col de Saët (1123 m) and the Col de Portet (862 m) by the D137 and the D37 via Alos. But beware, it is mainly a vulgar dirt road with craters as big as that and tufts of grass as a white line! For sure values, prefer the splendid D8 and the Col de Latrape (1111 m) by Aulus les Bains, then continue to the essential Port of Lers (1517 m) by the D18. We can even take a dip in thePond of Lers, but it’s cold.

Hunting for new tire hairs

We can then happily stay on the D18 until Tarascon sur Ariège, then go back to Massat over there D618 and the Col de Port (1250 m). Or, if all those tight turns end up pulling a bit on your arms, just let yourself sink down Ax les Thermes by the very pretty N20 (watch out for the hordes of tourists returning fromAndorra, the trunk of the Fuego full of kilos of cheap sugar). From there, no way to miss the Chioula Pass (1431 m) and its delicious D613, which continues very pleasantly towards Belcaire. We can then cut by the D29 and the D16 speak Pass of the Cross of the Dead (898 m), visit the ruins of the Cathar castle of Montsegur on the D9 (the ticket clerk, halfway up the climb on foot, keeps helmets and saddlebags without problems), before joining Foix over there D117 (or, better, staying on the D9 via Roquefixade, Leychert and Soula). AT Lavelanet, those nostalgic for the good old days may visit the "Museum of Textiles and Horn Combs" (!). The relentless will then be happy to regain Massat over there D17 (The Green Route) and the D72 speak Col des Marrous (990 m), the Col de Jouels (1247 m) and the Col de la Crouzette (1241 m). By the end of the day, the most recalcitrant of all your new tire hairs should be completely gone. If there’s a last one left, give him the Col de Rille (938 m), further north by the D18. He should not bring her too much, and you can leave the area with a clear conscience, for example by taking the D117 until St Girons and the D627 by Ste Croix Volvestre, Montesquieu Volvestre, Laughing and carbon.

Toulouse by the D4, royal

I do not know if you have noticed, but it has become almost impossible to enter a French city, whatever it is, without going through the same stupid bypass roads, bordered by the still sad sheds at Foirfouille, Halle aux Chaussures, Green Light and other Midas. Well at Toulouse, it’s possible ! Just don’t miss the D4 at the crossing of the N20 (coming from the D627, it is at the second roundabout on the right, which we also find if we take the C5 direction Justaret), and follow Toulouse by Lacroix Falgarde. You can then walk peacefully along the Garonne and treat yourself to luxury – free, the criterion of true luxury! – to enter the pink city as languidly as possible. Isn’t that beautiful? Thanks Moto-Net! On the other hand, once in the center, hello the galley to find a vulgar cybercafe. "A what? Ah yes, with internet computers? Wait, I think they put one near the Place des Carmes, or else try St Michel, near the prison". In short, an hour later it turned out that there was indeed internet access on the Grande rue St Michel … closed between noon and two o’clock because it is not a bar, but a computer store! I was therefore able to take note of your many messages, respond to the most urgent ones and take the road to the North, towards the Monts du Cantal and Puy-de-Dôme..

Eric MICHEL

PREVIOUS EPISODES:
1. (solo)
2. (duo)

FOLLOWING EPISODES:
4. (duet)
5. (duet)

Road trips – Ariège, Terre courage! (duet) –

Ariège, Earth courage! (duo)

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