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Motorcycle trip in the Ardennes
Motorcycle trip in the Ardennes
Seize the opportunity
Full of sun. And that in autumn and on a weekend. So much luck is extremely rare. If you don’t go out onto the track again, it’s your own fault. We were drawn to the Ardennes spontaneously.
Joachim Deleker
10/23/2003
Our known world ends in Monschau. Birgit and I have never dared to jump across the border to Belgium ?? instead we mostly curled through the Eifel on our weekend tours. That was originally our plan this time too. But when the first rays of sunshine make the autumn-colored leaves shine a little more vigorously and the weather report promises a perfect weekend, we decide to go to the Ardennes at breakfast instead of the Eifel
rush. Half an hour later we are aiming for Monschau, which is just before the border to the small neighboring country.
What a way to start the day! Monschau is considered one of the most beautiful cities in Germany. Ancient, white houses with black half-timbering nestle against the banks of the Rur, which meanders back and forth almost in a zigzag course, and winding streets lead through the beautifully restored old town to the cobbled market square. There are a few chairs and tables in front of an ice cream parlor, which are of course all occupied at a good 20 degrees, to which the thermometer has now climbed. Actually, we wanted to continue straight away, but we like to sacrifice a few minutes for a coffee while standing in this ambience.
Immediately after Monschau we pass the border to Belgium and aim for the High Fens, a plateau that is also the highest point in the country. The road is gaining height in a dead straight line and it is getting noticeably cooler. And windier. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why we haven’t driven here yet: The High Fens is one of the coldest and rainiest regions in Central Europe. Nice streets, no question about it. But constant rain alarm. Because the clouds that the west wind drives from the sea meet the first serious obstacle on this ridge, rise and ease their damp burden. Today, on the other hand, we seem lucky. No rain in sight as we park our motorbikes on the roof of Belgium, the 700 meter high Signal de Botrange, and walk a few steps through the subarctic moorland. Only now and then a few gray clouds that barely pull a hand’s breadth across the ground. Yellow pipe grass bends in the west wind, and somehow it all reminds us a little of the Scandinavian tundra. In fact, plants grow on this plateau that are otherwise only found in Lapland or the Scottish Highlands.
Deleker
Ardennes Tour, MOTORCYCLE 23/2003
It is said that the Belgians, who were awarded this region after the end of the First World War, were utterly disappointed that the ?? summit ?? of the High Fens was only 694 meters high. In no time it was decided to add another storey, a six-meter-high mound was raised, and Belgium was already a proud member of the exclusive club of the 700 countries. Nice anecdote.
A while later we roll down to Malmedy. A deep fryer entices with irresistible scents. Belgian fries are considered to be the best of all and the associated sauces, such as “Barbecue hot and spicy”, are sometimes extremely bold compositions. It’s correct. But it tastes good. Then it’s course west. In Trois-Ponts we turn onto one of the countless small back roads that wind through the valleys of the Ardennes. By the way: practically all of these small and extremely winding streets and lanes are ennobled on the map with a green marking, so they are considered particularly attractive. Driving them all would take days for sure. We are wondering more and more why we have not yet roamed this area, which is practically on our doorstep.
Ardennes (information)
Immediately across the border to Belgium there is a surprise in the Ardennes
getting there
From the east it is recommended to take the A 4 Cologne ?? Aachen ?? Eupen and from there up to the High Fens. Those coming from the south can reach St. Vith and Malmedy via the A 1 / A 60 Trier ?? Wittlich ?? Liège. You can also drive via Saarbrucken and Luxembourg (E 29 and E 25) to Dinant or La Roche.
Travel time
Winter sometimes lasts eight months on the High Fens. The charm of this rough landscape is much more apparent when the clouds are flying low than when the sun is shining brightly. The Ardennes forests are best navigated between April and October.
Stay
Campsites, guest houses and hotels are plentiful and available in all price ranges. The Belgian Tourist Office will send you a detailed list of accommodation, phone 0221/277590, fax 0221/27759100. Further information can be found on the Internet at www.ftpn.be, www.belgien-tourismus.net, www.ardennen-bruessel.de, www.belgische-ardennen.de and www.ardennen-hotels.de.
literature
Although the Ardennes are in the middle of Europe, there are hardly any good travel guides. The volume “Eifel-Ardennen” was published in the MOTORRAD edition Unterwegs, in which seven travel stories set the mood for this region. 16 euros in bookshops or at www.motorbuch-versand.de. Although it appeared five years ago, the »Ardennes travel book« from Meyer is still worth a look & Meyer Verlag, ISBN 3891244932, 16.90 euros. The best map for a round tour through the Ardennes is the Michelin sheet 214 »Belgium« on a scale of 1: 200000 for 7.90 euros.
Ardennes (2)
Deleker
Ardennes Tour, MOTORCYCLE 23/2003
As we follow the course of the Ourthe, there is only one car coming towards us, otherwise we have the autumn red glowing world to ourselves. The holey road, which has been patched a thousand times, is almost enduro terrain. Birgit has a lot of fun with her Suzuki DR 650, while the underdamped Kawasaki W 650 struggles for posture quite often under my bum.
We arrive at Durbuy, a beautiful nest where hardly anything seems to have changed since the Middle Ages. Narrow cobblestone streets and old houses made of rough, gray rubble. Here and there a lantern dangles that could well be from the time before Thomas Alva Edison. And towers over everything? logo ?? a castle ruin. A backdrop like from a movie. Finally we get to the Meuse valley and drive to Namur. The slopes on either side of the river are well stocked with villas and castles. It is hard to believe that the wealth of castles in the Rhine Valley can be surpassed, but given the countless old walls in this area, the Rhine has to be classified as a zone with few castles.
Deleker
Ardennes Tour, MOTORCYCLE 23/2003
The next day, thick fog has spread in the valley. Typical autumn. We look for our luck further up, swinging over numerous curves in the direction of Ermeton-s-Biert. And actually, when we reach the plateau, the last wafts of fog are just disappearing. With the sun it becomes pleasantly warm immediately. Compared to the varied landscape of the Ardennes, however, the plateau west of the Meuse valley does not have much to offer. So we curve back down into the valley. A patisserie in Dinant attracts with delicious eclairs, cafe au lait and a scenic location on the riverside. A huge citadel spreads out on a vertical rock high above the pointed-gabled houses. The Romans built a fort up there. The strategic location ?? The fortress has been besieged 17 times ?? helped Dinant to the dubious status of being the most destroyed city in Europe.
We are entering the Ardennes again. Curve by curve. The thermometer climbs again to a good 20 degrees, and the sun flashes through the discolored leaves. No summer day can keep up with that. Driving in autumn is simply an event! Especially since you are almost alone on the streets. Amazingly, we have only met a handful of motorcyclists so far.
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