Table of contents
- PS-TuneUp Triumph Daytona 675 Inexpensive race track tuning
- Even after “damaged vehicles” Looking for
- Dismantling of everything superfluous
- Drain the coolant
- engine
- landing gear
- brake
- Protection
- Disguise
- Nice to have
- The basis is in place
- Parts list Daytona 675 Bj. 2006
Feulner
17th pictures
Andreas Feulner
1/17
PS-TuneUp has set itself the task of forging a good racing athlete into a hot race track sweeper with the smallest possible budget.
Andreas Feulner
2/17
For less than 6000 euros we have now put a track bike on the wheels, with which you can perfectly shape your racing skills and indulge your greed for speed and lean angle.
Andreas Feulner
3/17
Good tires, on the other hand, are essential for everyone …
Andreas Feulner
4/17
… and tire warmers.
Andreas Feulner
5/17
Nice to have: Whether you need adjustable footrests right at the start of your race track career depends on the motorcycle you choose and your personal taste. …
Andreas Feulner
6/17
The fit is good, but it must be clear to everyone that it can never be done without adjustments.
Andreas Feulner
7/17
Covering set from SEBIMOTO.
Andreas Feulner
8/17
It’s a dilemma: backpack alternators cannot withstand the speeds of modern engines, those on the crankshaft are at risk in the event of a fall. Such solid protectors offer the solution.
Andreas Feulner
9/17
We lay the new brake lines directly from the pump to the brake calipers and no longer as in series, one line to the first and then a short one to the second brake caliper. Result: a clearly crisper pressure point.
Andreas Feulner
10/17
Most forks work quietly and undemanding in street motorcycles. In preparation for the racetrack, however, they receive the very large inspection. Well worn-in sliding tubes are extremely easy to move.
Andreas Feulner
11/17
Spring replacement: Although a track bike is relieved of headlights, indicators and mirrors at the front, hard, linearly coiled springs are the first choice for the race track.
Andreas Feulner
12/17
It takes until you have screwed yourself through to check the valve clearance. But it’s worth the effort, at least it gives you a good feeling between your ears.
Andreas Feulner
13/17
This racing oil filter from Hiflo can be tightened with normal tools and, thanks to the holes in the screw head, easily secured with wire.
Andreas Feulner
14/17
… It is up to you to decide for yourself whether you want to save or sell the original parts that are superfluous on the racetrack for later dismantling.
Andreas Feulner
15/17
Is that art or can it be gone?? …
Andreas Feulner
16/17
A Triumph Daytona 675 serves as an example, which can also be transferred to many other motorcycles.
Andreas Feulner
17/17
In the next issue of PS-TuneUps we will add more and ignite the second stage of the PS-triplespeed-trackbikes. Exhaust, electronics, brakes and more – the fight against the clock is on.
counselor
workshop
PS-TuneUp Triumph Daytona 675 race track tuning
PS-TuneUp Triumph Daytona 675
Inexpensive race track tuning
Content of
How does a good serial athlete become a hot racetrack sweeper and with the smallest possible budget? A Triumph Daytona 675 serves as an example, which can also be transferred to many other motorcycles.
Jens Hebisch
02/09/2016
Unfortunately, we have to disappoint those who have hoped for the S 1000 RR, ZX-10R or R1. Worse still, we advise against choosing a kilo iron to get into racing life. It may well be that with one of these inflated hyperspace sleds you burn passable lap times on the track straight away, but it is not uncommon for progress to fail as a result and the supposed young talent develops into a hiking chicane. Less is often more at the start. It is possible that the super sports class is slowly being buried on the road, but the nimble racing bikes are still the first choice on the track, especially for newbies. The extended circle of entry-level drugs includes Triumph Daytona 675 also Suzuki’s 750 Gixxer and the supersport triplets from MV Agusta and Triumph.
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PS-TuneUp Triumph Daytona 675
Inexpensive race track tuning
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One of these has appeared on our used motorcycle radar in the form of a 2006 Triumph Daytona 675 and is immediately examined. Few kilometers, not tinkered with and in good condition – the bike is a good basis. On closer inspection of the used vehicle, the jackpot finally rings in the racing box – it had a harmless accident, but the steering lock broke off. No drama for a race bike, but a worst-case scenario for a street bike due to frame damage. In the Daytona and Streetie models from 2006 to 2012, said steering stop is the Achilles heel; it should always be examined carefully, especially if you are planning to get such a bike for the road. After a short negotiation phase, the Triumph Daytona 675 changes hands for 2500 euros, and the basis for the PS triplespeed track bike is secured.
Even after “damaged vehicles” Looking for
A bargain, but not uncommon. It is important to know what to look for and, above all, what can impress you. When searching in the well-known portals such as mobile.de or autoscout24.de, you should also display “damaged vehicles”. When looking for a track bike base, similar test criteria apply as for a street moped, i.e. the number of previous owners, the mileage and the maintenance condition (read the service booklet carefully). Accessories such as exhaust, rest systems or protection have to be assessed soberly – do I need them, would I have installed them? The more extensive the list of accessories, the more careful you should be, because supposed “all-inclusive bikes” later often turn out to be handicraft stalls.
When considering buying a damaged bike, don’t let first impressions put you off. Most of the time the fairing looks heavily crumpled and battle marks adorn the overall picture, but what counts are the frame, fork and motor. The decision in favor of a crashed bike is certainly brave, but with careful selection and appraisal it can save the start-up capital immensely. Regardless of whether it is an accident machine or roadworthy road motorcycle, in all cases it is important to find out about possible weak points in advance, be it from a competent authorized dealer, in relevant forums or in the specialist press. If you have this on the slip, you take a closer look at the classics: If the engine is tight, it runs smoothly, the fork loses oil, how do the steering head, swing arm and wheel bearings feel in an unloaded state?
Dismantling of everything superfluous
Once the object of desire has been bought, everything that is useless on the racetrack or that seems too good to be shredded is dismantled. Series fairing, headlights, license plate holder, everything comes down. The condition of the dismantled parts determines their further development – disposal or Ebay. Original parts in good condition can later help finance one or the other set of tires.
Drain the coolant
The next step is to freshen up the base. Thorough service should always come first during the renovation. First of all, it is important to drain the coolant. Why? Because the usual mixture of Glysantin and distilled water has the grip level of soft soap and in the event of a defect in the cooling system it quickly leads to a hard landing. Often you drag your competitor into ruin in the slipstream. So out with it and flush the system once or twice with distilled water. If the cooling system is already empty, we also remove the thermostat. It is located on the back of the left cylinder head (seen in the direction of travel) and is used in everyday life to heat the engine more quickly, but it reduces the flow rate. Useful on the road, unnecessary for the racetrack. We always let the engine warm up in the paddock and use the maximum cooling capacity.
Another unnecessary component from everyday life is the fan behind the cooler. In public traffic, it ensures that the bike doesn’t boil over right away, even in rush hour. On the track, however, it reduces the maximum possible air throughput at the cooler and should also be removed. Make sure to measure the resistance of the fan motor and to bridge the connector on the wiring harness side with a corresponding resistor. If you do not do this, the error light on the dashboard lights up permanently. Now the cooling system is refilled with distilled water – without any additives. It is important to vent the line labyrinth. It is advisable to raise the front of the bike a little. In addition, you should squeeze the tangible coolant hoses together several times by hand in order to remove air pockets. After the engine has run at a standstill for the first time and has been brought up to temperature, press off the hoses again, check the fill level in the expansion tank and take a look at the radiator – but be careful, it’s hot! Here’s another practical tip: you should definitely order a second radiator cap from a Triumph dealer and put it in the racing box. The part is a weak point.
And because even the most experienced mechanics don’t always think of everything: Before winter starts, a racing motorcycle with just water in the radiator belongs in a heated room. As an alternative, you should refill coolant with antifreeze; this also provides better protection against corrosion.
engine
It continues with the valves. Both series of valves are set to the valve clearance prescribed by the manufacturer for the benefit of optimum performance and operational reliability, and if in doubt, rather to the wide side. Experience has shown that the Daytona engine runs well and reliably, provided you keep within the specifications and keep an eye on maintenance and care. Care is the keyword, which is why we treat the engine with fresh blood in the venous system, i.e. fully synthetic high-performance engine oil. No savings are made here, only suitable branded oil should be in the block.
The company Hiflo now offers racing versions of most of the common filters. They have a welded-on screw head with a hole. You can tighten it with a normal wrench and secure the filter with wire thanks to the hole. Important note on lubrication: Triumph made a change to the oil pump, including the drive pinion and line, from engine number 483014 to improve the oil circuit. The upgrade can also be retrofitted to older engines. For around 300 euros an absolutely sensible modification.
In addition, a racing bike deserves more maintenance than a road bike. If you get lost on track days, it would be wise not to do a major inspection just once a year. A wellness treatment is due after eight to ten days of the racetrack at the latest. In addition, all screws, whether engine, chassis or add-on parts, should be checked and tightened regularly. Careful cleaning, even in hard-to-reach areas, is not only useful for cosmetics, it also helps to detect broken small parts or loose screws. And what does the cooling water look like after all the hot rides? If it is dirty or rusty red, it should be changed.
landing gear
Freshening up also applies to the chassis, especially the fork. Often neglected on the road, it deserves special attention on the track. That means: remove, dismantle, clean. And please do it thoroughly. The oil sludge at the bottom of the fork, interspersed with metal, dirt and Teflon particles, has no place there. Then check the immersion tubes for signs of wear, scoring or stone chips and reassemble everything carefully. The revision should be completed with fresh fork oil, new Simmerrings and dust caps as well as fork springs suitable for race track use. Well cared for, you can have a lot of fun with most series forks. We installed fork springs from K-Tech and asked the importer of the British racing material, the Zupin company, to advise us directly on the choice. Anyone who does not trust themselves to do this work should become a specialist.
We also ordered a very important component of our Daytona race track, the shock absorber. The series part of the standard model is known to be quickly overwhelmed, but this does not have to be the case with every type of motorcycle. Other series legs, especially those of newer motorcycles, also meet high demands, so it is best to proceed according to the following principle: A serious problem is important for sensible tuning. If this occurs, however, the issue of a high-quality accessory damper is given clear priority over a light exhaust, performance-enhancing electronics or snazzy carbon. Because with a wildly pumping hindquarters, driving pleasure suffers, tire wear increases and in the event of a departure, the wrong savings measure is really expensive in the end. The K-Tech 35 DDS Lite installed by us has the usual adjustment options for rebound and compression stages as well as the spring preload and offers a variable strut length. After our first race track test, we will report in detail on the performance of the British racing part in connection with the new fork springs.
brake
In the last step of the service part, we will focus on the braking system. The calipers are dismantled, cleaned, given a special brake fluid-resistant grease, fitted with new sintered metal brake pads and reassembled. We advise against extreme racing or even carbon surfaces, as these would put excessive strain on the standard panes and require a certain minimum level of stress in order to get up to temperature and stay there. Instead, we exchange the brake lines for tailor-made steel braided lines from Fren Tubo. It is not about the material, because the Daytona comes with a steel casing from the factory, but only about the laying. For the race track, we mount the lines directly from the pump to the brake calipers and no longer as in series, one line to the first and then a short one to the second brake caliper. Result: a clearly crisper pressure point.
If everything is properly installed, we recommend Castrol React SRF Racing brake fluid, known to the elderly as SRF. SRF has an extremely high boiling point and somehow manages to give the pressure point an extra crack. The liter costs between 45 and 55 euros. It goes without saying that the brake system is meticulously vented, and new fluid is due after two years at the latest. In the second part of the TuneUp, we describe how to open the brakes further.
Protection
The service-related duty is done, now we come to the freestyle. First we provide the bike with suitable protection and start with the steering stops. B.&G offers inexpensive rubber buffers for many models that are mounted directly on the fork. The steering angle is noticeably reduced, but this is not a problem when driving.
Next, the front and rear axles are fitted with LSL crashballs, which are our first choice due to their round shape and the resulting reduced risk of “hooking”. This is also the keyword for engine crash pads. Their commitment is a real question of conscience. In most cases, the pads can effectively protect against large-scale damage to the overall system if the pilot hooks something, but they can also cause massive damage to the frame or engine. If you decide on engine crash pads, you should definitely choose a variant that is attached to two places using additional adapter plates. Crash pads that are screwed on directly should be avoided. We are testing the crash pad kit from R&G, which fits perfectly, but is apparently made from British armor steel. Even against the background of the necessary stability, other manufacturers offer lighter yet suitable alternatives (see parts list).
Next we provide the engine with protective covers, the use and usefulness of which there is nothing to be discussed. We assemble the parts from GB Racing that have been tried and tested in the tough BSB everyday life. The chain fin, which also belongs on every track bike, comes from the same company. It protects against getting your toes or fingers between the chainring and chain in the event of a fall.
Disguise
We can choose between the two GRP racing fairing kits from SCR and Sebimoto. Both manufacturers offer racing rear stacks either as an open version – so that the original seat can still be used – or as a closed version; Here you have to form your own seat roll out of foam rubber or order something suitable from the accessories. In the case of the Daytona, we choose the open version because, firstly, we like the original seat with its firm upholstery and, secondly, we continue to have quick and easy access to the battery and relay.
First, the fine Sebimoto cladding is adjusted. The individual parts are of high manufacturing quality, have material reinforcements at the screw points and a detailed description of the assembly. The fit is good, but it must be clear to everyone that it can never be done without adjustments. The fairing keel is already provided with a hole and rubber stopper, which we like a lot. If the cladding is not prefabricated, this detail is often forgotten. The hole is necessary in order not to chauffeur an aquarium with you when driving in the rain. What we don’t like is the assembly at the rear, here the web between the two screws is too flat and presses on the GRP, which can lead to cracks when screwing on. Not much of a drama, you only have to put one or two panes underneath during assembly.
The SCR cladding has a somewhat less pronounced material reinforcement, but it is by no means windy or fragile. The assembly requires a little more adjustment work, but then the GRP suit also fits like a glove. The problem area of the rear attachment does not exist with the SCR, for this the hole for the water drainage still has to be drilled and closed with a plug. In view of the extensive complete kit, which in addition to the fairing and rear also includes a tank hood and the front fender, the SCR package is a hot offer, even if the Sebimoto looks chic and high-quality in the finish.
The original windshield fits on both fairings, but we mount the Bubble Racing windshield from GL Motorradtechnik for track use so that we can stay in the slipstream of the thousands on the straight for a few meters and hope for the next combination of curves.
Nice to have
Finally, in the first stage of expansion of the track bike, we treat ourselves to a fully adjustable and ultra-chic 2-slide rest system from LSL. Advantages of such a component: The rigid notch is a full-fledged crash pad. The ergonomics can be adapted to your own needs and the switching pattern can be reversed.
Last but not least, we also mount super sticky Metzeler Racetec RR, which are known to offer (almost) endless grip, but above all come up with a wide limit range. For hobby racers, they offer enough leeway to push their way to the limit. But the budget should also give you a set of tire warmers.
The basis is in place
For less than 6000 euros we have now put a track bike on the wheels, with which you can perfectly shape your racing skills and indulge your greed for speed and lean angle. In the next issue of PS-TuneUp we will add more and ignite the second stage of the PS-triplespeed-trackbike. Exhaust, electronics, brakes and more – the fight against the clock is on.
Parts list Daytona 675 Bj. 2006
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Component | manufacturer | designation | Price (euro) | permit | Source of supply |
Oil filter | HIFLO | Oil filters, racing filters | 9,- | – | www.partseurope.eu |
Air filter | K&N | Washable air filter | 99,- | no admission | www.partseurope.eu |
Shock absorber | K-TECH | 35 DDS Lite | 1120,- | no admission | www.zupin.de |
Fork spring | K-TECH | Fork spring set | 119,- | no admission | www.zupin.de |
Brake lines | FREN TUBO | Custom-made brake line in front | from 59, – p. Pc. | TG * | www.micronsystems.de |
brake fluid | Castrol | React SRF Racing | approx. 50,- | Yes | www.castrol.com |
Steering stop protector | B.&G | Rubber profile with a polyamide core | 32,- | – | www.b-g-racing.de |
Axle protectors | LSL | Crashballs axle protectors | 39, – p. axis | – | www.lsl.eu |
Engine crash pads | R.&G | Complete kit including adapter plates | 259,- | – | www.hagenmotorsport.de |
Motor protection cover | GB RACING | 3-piece kit | 169,- | – | www.gbracing.de |
Chain fin | GB RACING | Chain fin | 43,- | – | www.gbracing.de |
Grille | R.&G | Plastic-coated aluminum | 79,- | – | www.hagenmotorsport.de |
Fairing kit | SCR | Complete kit GRP including tank hood and fenders | 332,- | no admission | www.scr-composites.de |
Fairing kit | SEBIMOTO | Upper / lower fairing and rear | 399,- | no admission | www.sebimoto.de |
Windshield | GL MOTORCYCLE TECHNOLOGY | Bubble racing screen | 49,- | no admission | ww.gl- motorradtechnik.de |
Swing arm cover | SEBIMOTO | Carbon set | 190,- | – | www.sebimoto.de |
Footrest system | LSL | 2-slide with reversed gearshift | 459,- | TG * | www.lsl.eu |
tire | METZELER | RACETEC RR K1 front / K2 rear | approx. 320 | no admission | www.metzeler.com |
Tire warmers | CAPIT | Model SBK up to 195 at the rear | 357,- | – | www.partseurope.eu |
Lifter | LSL | Assembly stand recordings | 29,- | – | www.lsl.eu |
Alternatives ** | |||||
Shock absorber | MUPO | AB1 Evo | from 1120,- | on request | www.zupin.de |
Shock absorber | OHLINS | TTX GP | 1450,- | TG * | www.ohlins.eu |
Shock absorber | HYPERPRO | Type 463 | from 899,- | on request | www.so-products.com |
Shock absorber | WILBERS | Type 643 Competition | from 999,- | on request | www.wilbers.de |
Engine crash pads | LSL | Crash Pad Kit | from 155,- | – | www.lsl.eu |
Motor protection cover | R.&G | Strong Race two-part | 189,- | – | www.hagenmotorsport.de |
Footrest system | ABM | Sports footrest system TR | 394,- | TG * | www.ab-m.de |
Footrest system | GILLES | AS 31 GT | 509,- | TG * | www.partseurope.eu |
Footrest system | TRW | Sports footrest system | 359,- | TG * | www.trwmoto.com |
Footrest system | LIGHTECH | FTR02 | 440,- | ABE | www.lightech.it |
* Parts certificate subject to registration ** Tested in previous TuneUps
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