Posted on 08.04.2019 by admin

The Pyrenees passes (duo)

September 1999After a last coffee on the market square of Saintes, direction Bordeaux by the D145, D146 and D255, which run along the Gironde estuary via Mortagne, St Ciers and Blaye…

ROADS

IN SHORT

Stroll words:

"The Cols of the Pyrenees is magic, you mustn’t miss a single one"
(a 1200 Trophy in a gas station)

"In Biarritz there is nothing for the bike, you have to go to Bayonne"
(a local CB 500)

Walk readings:
"(…) The Octopus sometimes dreamed of a smoldering blow that would have driven the flashy hordes of Yamaha, Honda, Kawa and other Suzuki from the roads of Europe, to restore the reign of English motorcycles. A severe and demanding reign because At the time, you didn’t become a biker overnight. To have the right to ride a Triumph or a Norton with dignity, you had to know its guts inside out. You had to be able to diagnose each of the incredible breakdowns, drop the engine to the side of the road and, after arranging the parts on a large white handkerchief, reassemble it, leaving just enough play for the mechanics to run freely while eliminating unwanted vibrations. Those, and the Octopus in had been part, who had bent to this discipline had also known the ineffable happiness of the couple, this mechanical magic which, on a suitably tuned engine, distributes the power harmoniously whatever the speed (…) "
("The Octopus: Stop the tiling" by Patrick Raynal, Editions Librio, 10 FF)

E.M.

A SUMMER 99 ON THE ROAD (2)
The Pyrenees passes
Back from a 3-week station wagon after 4,600 km of asphalt riding a 900 Trophy weighted down by my favorite passenger, the best plans from Moto-Net. Part 2.

Bordeaux by the estuary

After a last coffee in the market place of Saintes, direction Bordeaux by the D145, D146 and D255, which run along the Gironde estuary via Mortagne, St Ciers and Blaye. The stormy sky, succeeding the mini tornado which hit the region last night, gives the landscapes of marshes and vines an atmosphere that is both heavy and calm. But the road is not of overwhelming interest on the whole, and it is without batting an eyelid that we circumvent Bordeaux by its motorway belt. There, a small navigation error (unless it is attributable to the Michelin map n ° 989?) Makes us take the D106 instead of N250. Hence compulsory hook by the D5 which, like almost all the roads in the area, represents in itself a real nightmare for bikers, as well as a powerful incentive for the inauguration of the TGV crime of the Gayssot law: kils and kils of lines interminable straight lines, lined with life-size Harpic WC "Senteur des pins" … The coating is not even nickel, and the crossroads with innumerable forest paths: for the inauguration of the TGV, it was a failure !

Biarritz via Harpic WC Land

The D216 until Sanguinet is drawn from the same barrel as its Girondo-Landes counterparts, just like the D46, D626, D652 and D79 via Mimizan, Lit-et-Mixe, Leon, Hossegor, Capbreton, Bayonne, Anglet and Biarritz. Nothing to report, except the lighthouse of Contis-Plage (very pretty black and white spiral), whose guardian was none other than Emmanuelle’s great-grandfather. Admittedly, the information is not terribly exciting – despite the magical aspect of this lost profession – but I assure you that absolutely nothing else is happening on the roads of the Landes forests. Ah, yes: sometimes, after 50 terminals, there is a bend. And better not to waste it, because the next one may be desired for a while … Only a very small portion around Vieux-Boucau gently winds its way through the pines and their carpets of ferns, even offering short but striking windows to the ocean and dunes. The arrival in Biarritz is rather pleasant despite its goguette Augustians and its Sunday surfers, and the city with two casinos – a municipal, very select, and a private, crammed with little grannies thirsty for English tea and one-armed bandits – we will serve as a base camp for a little exploration of the Basque roads.

The mystery of the "Ventas"

A first tip if you are going to cross the Basque Country: watch out for the state of the roads! Apart from a few major axes, such as the N104 in the direction of St Jean de Luz and Hendaye, the secondary network is in poor condition. The D912 in particular, which overlooks the Basque Corniche, is in need of a serious facelift. Ditto for the D404 to the Col d’Ibardin, and the D406 and D4 around the Rhune massif (pronounced "rugne") which, apart from short freshly reviewed portions (but beware of gravel!), are in very average condition. Weird. But the greatest mystery of the region, the astounding crystallization of the little oddities of mankind – what am I saying: the immeasurable behavioral aberration of this learned great ape that sends rockets into space – is undoubtedly that of " Ventas ". Take for example the direction of the pretty – but far from exceptional – Col d’Ibardin, in the middle of August. You will first be surprised by the extent of the traffic jams in the small town ofHerboure (200 souls to break everything?). Then the astonishment will increase when, launched to the assault of the D404, you will have to squeeze between two lines of cars (one going up, one going down), bumper against bumper, frozen in the most perfect stillness under a blazing sun … When you reach the top, you will then understand with fear the one and only reason for this Stations of the Cross for penitent cashiers: the pastis is less expensive … So it’s in his BX stuffed with 51, cigarettes, turron and other snowballs-with-the-Virgin- inside that the motorist keen on savings (what, the 20.6% VAT, and more?), after spending a good half-day climbing the 4 km of the pass, 2 hours to find a place on the parking lot saturated with coaches and as many to turn around, will devote what remains of his day to … go back down. And be careful, not just anywhere, the descent: by the same path as the ascent, just fine, no, but sometimes! While of course the descent from the Spanish side towards Vera from Bidasoa, by the very chaotic C131, is absolutely deserted … A Vera from Bidasoa, easily find the little cafe restaurant at the exit of the village, in the direction of Sare, and ask for the combined platos that are not on the menu. Suddenly, Spain will reappear, beautiful and peaceful, in the form of huevos fritos, patatas fritas, chorizo caliente, una cañita and a cafe con leche por favor, all on a very pleasant little shaded terrace along the river. ‘water … ¡Joder, que país! But I digress.

Eclipse on the Imperial Peak Road
After completing this small foray into Basque territory by Sare, Noise seekers, Ainhoa, Espelette (and its delicious sweet peppers that dry on the facades of the houses), St Pee sur Nivelle and Ascain (D406, D4, D20 and D918), we make an appointment in the sun for the next day, on the Imperial Route of the Peaks (D22, pretty but nothing more), leaving him the choice of weapons. At the appointed hour, it is therefore wearing our improbable glasses "Land and Sea, the elements of success" – supposed to praise the merits of the Charente maritime (!) – that we are witnessing, vaguely disappointed, this "event "which, although having surely caused 100 times more ink to flow than the torture of prisoners under Hassan II, did not really live up to our naive hopes (must be said that at 80%, it is broad daylight! ). Fortunately, a good portion with a twist – and in good condition! – waiting for us between Cambo les Bains and St Jean Pied de Port, on the D918. The local bikers seem to know the vein well! A small hook by St Etienne de Baïgorry (D948 and D15) is possible, but not transcendent. Then comes the nice little one Osquich Pass (392 m, that’s still modest!), Always on the D918 (which largely loses in quality of coating). Between Mauleon-Licharre and Oloron Ste Marie, wander carefully into the forests of the D24 via Barcus, completely rutted (potholes, grooving, gravel: the total!) but worth the detour. Otherwise stay on the D918, without surprise. Oloron Ste Marie, which despite its great tourist potential still unexploited (superb rivers, old stone bridges and pretty huts at the water’s edge), offers the somewhat disaster-stricken face of a former working-class town, could serve as a stopover town.

Somport, Pourtalet, Aubisque, Soulor

Very beautiful road that this N134 which follows the course of the Gave d’Aspe to the superb Somport Pass (1632 m). By the way, it seems that Eric Petetin’s fight against the masked tunnel ended up favorably with the victory of the first! After a depressed stop in the only barAsasp (a chicory-flavored coffee, with for only company the flies skating on the dull oilcloth, the stuffed critters on the wall and the ticking of the clock in a corner – Emmanuelle still shivers), Somport already bodes well. all the passes passed this summer: passable coating (with some exceptions), abundant wild flora and top-notch landscapes. Those who wish to deepen the – fascinating – study of the behavior of motorists leaving, with women and children, to attack the Ventas (see above), will know how to take advantage of a foray into Spain by the N330. They will indeed have plenty of time to observe the slightest deeds and gestures of this incredible tribe with strange customs, on their return, by the Col du Pourtalet (1794 m), betweenA136 (Spanish side) and the D934 (French side). Mind-blowing! We can then return to civilization by Hot water and Good Waters, two thermal cures stations which will welcome you elegantly, as soon as you enter the city, with a dozen signs proudly announcing the local specialties: "Rheumatism", "Arthritis", "Bronchitis", "Asthma" and j ‘on the way. Despite the quality of this welcome, we may nevertheless prefer to continue until Argelès-Gazost over there D918 to spend the night! Just pass the Aubisque Pass (1709 m), after admiring this jewel of humanist architecture represented by the ski resort of Gourette – will all architects be shorn at the Liberation? -, then the Soulor Pass (1474 m).

Tourmalet, Aspin, Peyresourde, Portillon, Portet d’Aspet

Argelès-Gazost will be the ideal starting point to leave for the mythical Col du Tourmalet (2115 m), taking the very pretty D921 until Luz St Sauveur (at the foot of the splendid Neouvielle massif). Here again, no neighborhood for those who have dared to leave their brains softened the urbanization plans of Barèges and of La Mongie. The Col du Tourmalet remains nonetheless unmissable, majestic, enormous. Three eagles will accompany us on the climb, circling over our helmets, then a goat will pretend to commit suicide by throwing itself under the wheels of the Trophy during the descent. Of course, countless cyclists play "more loaded than me you die, especially with my neon pink Bricorama jersey and my ball-shaped boxer shorts", but not enough to whip a Virenque without knowing it of his own accord. The Col d’Aspin (1304 m), more modest, is worth the detour. Lower than the Tourmalet, it keeps the same majestic aspect, and allows us to say goodbye to our faithful D918, in very good shape up to Arreau. Passing the Col de Peyresourde (1569 m) by the D618, you will make a brief incursion in Haute Garonne, then in Catalonia by the Pass of the Portillon (1293 m) and its nickel portions, worthy of the best circuits. After taking the rapid N230 Spanish (sorry, Catalan), continue in the same spirit with the N125 via Fos and St Beatus. We then fall back on the D618, whose many small passes quietly open the doors of Ariège to you: Col des Arès (797 m), Col de Buret (599 m) and Col de Portet d’Aspet (1069 m).

Eric MICHEL

PREVIOUS EPISODE:
1. (solo)

FOLLOWING EPISODES:
3. (duet)
4. (duet)
5. (duet)

Road trips – The Pyrenees passes (duo) –

The Pyrenees passes (duo)

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