South America in Versys 650 – Latin America by motorcycle (14): Cordillera de Yauyos (Peru) –

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Latin America by motorcycle (14): Cordillera de Yauyos (Peru)

South America in Versys 650 - Motorcycle Latin America (14): Cordillera de Yauyos (Peru) -

We’ve been out and about for 7 days, so take a break! We decide to continue towards Huancayo, which turns out to be a really gloomy city. We had to go to the Cordillera Blanca to do a 3-day trek, but the Peruvian distances are enormous so we change our plans: we go to the Cordillera de Yauyos, near Lima …

We’ve been out and about for 7 days, so take a break! We decide to continue towards Huancayo, which turns out to be a really gloomy city. We had to go to the Cordillera Blanca to do a 3-day trek, but the Peruvian distances are enormous so we change our plans: we go to the Cordillera de Yauyos, near Lima but 300 km inland.

Once again we will catch the cold, hail and snow when passing a pass at 4300 m. Fortunately, our Scott equipment is very versatile and by putting back the liners we face bad weather conditions..

In the evening we sleep in Alis, the last stop before the start of the trek, and the next day we stop at Viltis to ask our way to Tanta: we have in fact 6 hours of track left … Sabrina then asks if he doesn’t. there is no way to go on foot through the mountains rather than to go up by the track.

We would have two days: we change our plans one last time! We leave the motorcycle in the town hall of Vitis, we prepare our bag and here we are with the guy from the town who goes to look for his cows in the mountains. A shepherdess also joins us for a few kilometers before abandoning us for her flock.

Word of mouth

No local card: we will do everything by word of mouth. Starting from 3500 m, we quickly pass the 4000 mark. At 4400 m we meet a guy with his horses, the ascent is difficult, oxygen is lacking. The guy still has not recovered his cows which had to escape to other plateaus.

The weather is cloudy … He then explains the rest of the route for the next two days and gives me a sketch on the crossword section of his diary.

Sabrina, who is less acclimatized than me, is not very well so I quickly pitch the tent, just before a hailstorm breaks out. It is 4 p.m., the wait will be long … To keep busy, we try to make some pancakes in vain: at 4550 m, my stove sticks out its tongue a little !

4850 m altitude

The night was cool … After a good bowl of oats, we resume the ascent to the Punta, we spare our efforts by taking breaks every 30 minutes and after two hours we find ourselves at 4850 m altitude.

After a little gardening, we pass the famous gate. We then descend a valley to an estancia run by two girls. Nothing luxurious: a stone hut with a thatched roof, with the animals around. We take a left according to their indications and we take a break at noon at the edge of the Pariah lagoon.

Regularly, we take out our precious plan and ask for directions as soon as we can. We finally arrive at the tin-roofed estancia … where there is no one. It’s a shame, because we had to ask for the junction for Tanta. It is 3 p.m. and a new storm is brewing: we take refuge in the tent !

Last night I had a lot of trouble, impossible to sleep … I am without energy and I do not lead off! We leave around 8 am following the river, for lack of indication. We will find another estancia…

3 hours later, we reach the Tanta track but we are 10 km too far west. Luck smiles on us because we are at the same time closer to the cochepapa lagoon that we wanted to see !

We follow a small track for almost an hour before finding ourselves blocked by a ford. Just as we were about to attempt the crossing, a guy on horseback arrives and crosses the ford. We then run behind to ask him if there is not another way. It leads us to the path a little higher, which will lead us to a natural bridge.

From valley to valley, cows, horses and sheep. But after 3 hours of walking, still no lagoon … We continue, it is 1 pm, we are hungry. Around 3 p.m. we finally meet someone, and we arrive at the lagoon after 5 hours of walking.

At 4.30 p.m., we arrive at the village of Vilca hungry. Fed up with rice and oats! Everything is closed, but luckily we get in the dumpster of a truck that leaves for the next village: an hour on the chaotic tracks of the area.

Bumpy tracks and return to Lima

The ravine is very close and it’s even more impressive when you’re not driving! In Huancaya, we storm the only restaurant for yet another trout before ending our journey by car to Vilca.

The next day we leave for Lima where Sabrina must take the plane. The three weeks passed quickly … We made a last stop in Catawasi, seaside resort par excellence. It is difficult to land after three days in the depths of the mountains with the shepherds and we feel less comfortable here.

Then it’s back to Lima. I have two months left alone. Next stop, Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca: stay tuned !

Maxime BARAT

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