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to travel
Winter trip
Winter trip
Caught cold
If you can’t wait until spring, you should just take your home route under the wheels in winter. Impressions of a trip around Moritzburg near Dresden.
Uwe Fischer
02/27/2003
An avenue lined with old chestnut trees leads to the old pheasant castle. I feel the amazed looks of the many strollers. The guy is crazy, most would certainly think. Riding a motorcycle is hardly more dangerous than ice skating, I tell myself. The pond, in the middle of which the magnificent building with the four striking round towers stands like on an island, has long since frozen over and there are people on runners everywhere. Past the historic »Waldschanke«, where Erich Honecker and other personalities were already present were happy to be guests, the Twin rolls along the avenue to this beautiful baroque palace. A small pier leads out into the lake from here, and at the end there is even a lighthouse. A little later I’m on the main road towards Radeburg again. On the right there is a game reserve, which not only houses native game but also wolves and elk. Finally the road falls slightly down into the Promnitz Valley, and at Berbisdorf I turn between towering mountains of snow in the direction of Barnsdorf, to finally get to the Wettiner Reit- und Falknerhof on a path that has not been cleared. Sheep, goats, pigs, horses and a camel have an idyllic home here. Back in Barnsdorf, a long whistle attracts my attention? an old steam locomotive puffs up, smoking and hissing. In a narrow lane, she tows a couple of green passenger cars from Radebeul to Radeburg, 16 kilometers away. As if by itself, the Honda steers after the train. Again we hit Berbisdorf, whose hidden moated castle is apparently abandoned to decay, cross the tracks, curve to Radeburg and always have the smoky smell of the small train in the nose and air filter. Following the cobbled streets, I come to the busy market square, framed by town houses. There is a lot more hustle and bustle there in the first days of February, when the city becomes the stronghold of the local fools, until it all culminates in a well-known carnival parade. A citizen of Radeburg, a gentleman named Heinrich Zille, is even more well known. The famous original Berlin milieu draftsman was born here. Yes, here, in the middle of Saxony! In the meantime the pinching in my fingertips, which I had suppressed half an hour ago, has grown stronger. I can’t ignore it anymore. Just in time for sunset, the cold comes, creeps into the gloves and makes the pavement glisten. The Africa Twin chugs carefully home. Unfortunately, winter days are very short? and I left way too late, so I’ll try again the next morning. A fine layer of frost has covered the motorcycle. The first meters are ?? as so often in life? the most difficult. First it goes down the steep courtyard, and braking is out of the question on the slippery ground. Limited winter service. Like on the street. A sign warns of skiers. For real! Again I take the avenue in the direction of Moritzburg under the tunnels. Beautiful weather. The sun shines through the trees and makes the branches covered with hoarfrost glitter. There is a wonderful interplay of light and shadow over the country. Today I leave Moritzburg Castle to the right and park the Honda at the outflow of the castle pond. The nearby parking lot is already occupied, and there are many walkers on the bank to watch the ice-skaters for a while. A food truck is already making good sales in the morning ?? with grog and mulled wine. As soon as the engine of my Honda starts up again, everyone turns in my direction and is certainly hoping for an escapade worth seeing. But I stick exactly to the narrow, sand-strewn lane across to the street and actually bring a reasonably orderly exit to it. I quickly leave the turmoil behind me and turn to the lonely streets. A few kilometers further, the forests recede, and wide, frozen fields shape the landscape, which shine unreally in the glistening winter sun and gradually blend in the haze with the dull blue of the sky. As if intoxicated, I glide through ever new variations of white and blue. In the depression of the Rodertal I stop to warm my ice-cold hands on the cylinders for a moment. “Well, isn’t it the right weather for a motorcycle?” An old farmer came up unnoticed. When I see his gray wadding jacket, greasy hat and felt boots, I feel like I have been transported back decades. The furrowed face expresses concern. Without letting me have my say, he points to the small, rather lovely waves of the Grober Roder: “If all the snow thaws, there will be a bad flood.” Then he strode away again. I track the village of Schonfeld with its castle on. In contrast to the always well-visited Moritzburg, this picturesque building nestles almost sleepily in the surrounding park. At this time of year it looks almost enchanted. I walk around the extinct castle courtyard without any obstacles, no entry-no-entry sign, no people ?? I am the only visitor and take a short walk through the park. The Africa Twin is waiting impatiently, she must have heard the roar of a single-cylinder engine that thuds over the park wall. So there is someone else besides me on two wheels. But by the time I get to the street, the noise has already disappeared. What ovens are all the other motorcyclists sitting behind in this great weather? Folks, you’re missing out! After this somewhat longer break, the horses pull the chain violently, and we continue south. The bright winter light puts me in a kind of intoxication. Trees and houses fly by, as do small, murmuring streams that resist the force of the frost. However, I have to be more careful than usual. The sun is so dazzling that small tongues of snow that reach into the street can easily be overlooked. Soon I cross the course of the Grosse Roder again, then the Moritzburg Forests devour me, through whose trees the sunlight falls at an angle in the afternoon. After dark, I stand in front of the Moritzburg Castle again. It’s so beautifully lit that I climb from the Honda’s seat and carefully cross the frozen lake. Nothing reminds you of the hustle and bustle of the day, not a soul glides over the ice. A couple of stars shine against the lamps, and it is quiet. And cold.
Info
A weekend time? Then off to Dresden. And after a stroll through town, explore the area around Moritzburg. So neither the cultural conscience nor the driving pleasure are neglected.
Arrival: The tour described runs north of Dresden, which can be reached from the north via the A 13 or from the west via the A 14. Moritzburg is signposted at the “Dresden Wilder Mann” or “Dresden Airport” exits. The Radeburg and Marsdorf exits also lead into the region described. General: The so-called Moritzburg small peaks and pond landscape is ?? as the name suggests ?? characterized by countless hills, ponds and also a whole arsenal of tiny stretches. North of Radeburg, the landscape flattens out and becomes part of the Grobhainer Pflege. Sights: Moritzburg alone offers a multitude of historical buildings. Above all the hunting lodge. Among other things, it houses the strongest red deer trophy in the world. Located on the large pond, the pheasant castle with a pier and lighthouse attracts visitors. The center of Radeburg with its historic market square and local history museum is ideal for a short stopover. The northernmost point of the trip is Schonfeld Castle in the town of the same name near the A13 motorway. The somewhat hidden building offers not only its interesting exterior facade, but also magnificent interiors. Equestrian fans will also get their money’s worth when they explore the Moritzburg Forest on horseback. The riding stables are signposted. In summer there are also many outdoor pools for swimming and some lakes for rowing.Overnight: Moritzburg offers a large number of hotels, guest houses and private rooms, and in summer there are several campsites by the ponds. You will also find a bed away from the tourist centers mentioned, but the food on offer is then limited to the respective village inns. The Moritzburg tourist information office will be happy to help you find a room: Telephone 035207/8540. Or you can ask directly at one of the following hotels: Hotel Deutsches Haus, Heinrich-Zille-Strabe 5, 01471 Radeburg, phone 035208/9510; hotel & Landgasthof Berbisdorf, Hauptstrasse 38, 01471 Berbisdorf, phone 035208/2027; Pension Marlis, August-Bebel-Strabe 86, 01468 Reichenberg, phone 0351/8960065, www.pension.marlis@t-online.de; Hotel and Restaurant Waldschanke, Grobe Fasanenstrabe, 01468 Moritzburg, Telephone 035207/8600 www.churfurstliche-waldschaenke.de Time required: depending on the weather, one or two days Distance: 150 kilometers
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