Around Lake Constance

Posted on by admin

Table of contents

to travel

Around Lake Constance

Around Lake Constance
Addicted to the lake?

Avoiding Lake Constance just because parents and grandparents have already been there borders on self-deception: it is the glittering promise of a life south of the Alps.

Fred Siemer

07/06/1998

There were times when no summer went by without holiday greetings from Lake Constance: Konstanz, Meersburg, Lindau, the flower island of Mainau again and again – loved ones sent their postcards around Western Europe’s largest lake, bombarding everyone who stayed at home with baroque to flowery cliches. Bodensee, that was Aunt Inge with Uncle Werner, who explored the world in the silvery Ford Taunus in order to end up dead sure where the world was just as fine as at home. But somehow Aunt Inge and Uncle Werner were okay too, and the idea The fact that a motorized two-wheeler needs fundamentally different goals than a Ford Taunus can meanwhile be regarded as late adolescent and outdated. It should at least be checked, and in order not to rehearse the hardship, a strolling drive to the north bank is recommended: Heiligenberg Castle, enthroned at a courageous height above the fertile Salem Valley, gives a first impression of the wealth and splendor of the entire region. The former Cistercian Abbey of Salem shows a few kilometers south that secular and clerical masters were after this prosperity together. And in Uhldingen, the Vespa rolls out right on the bank, where a lawn waits for sun-seekers of all classes in a highly democratic way. Straw mat, badminton, summer happiness, the little ones splash around in the shallow water, the big ones squint alternately under the peaked cap to the wharf of the White Fleet or to the pile dwellings. For a long time they were marketed as examples of early architecture. It was said that around 4,000 years ago the residents put their houses in the lake on long stakes in order to better protect themselves from enemies. Without diminishing the work of the craftsmen, the truth is simply that the lake was not that extensive at the time, and the piles served as a foundation in the marshy bank belt. The replica Uhldingen huts stand in the middle of the water, as if to mock the entire archeology, but for the sustained benefit of tourism. Federal highway 31 leads from Uhldingen to uberlingen. No, it is lurking, because its brutal activity suddenly tears apart the dream of a holiday garden, from the lively round of historical edifices. A bicycle map, scale 1: 75000, helps against the B 31, and on it there is even a fruit tree-lined path to the Birnau monastery church, whose pink onion dome greets you across to the island of Mainau, where Count Bernadotte has a stimulating experience Let the ensemble of Lebanon cedars, magnolias and rose bushes, baroque castle, lake terraces and arcades go well. Until they got the idea to open their garden to the common people. Now they earn a golden nose, register more visitors than Neuschwanstein, but have to sell popsicles and Coca-Cola. From what one could learn that even the nobility strives for money, but that there is nothing fundamentally bad to be found when the scent of over 1000 varieties of roses swells towards you. Things are much more down-to-earth on the Bodanruck, the peninsula that forms the western foothills of the Swabian region Sea, the uberlinger and the Untersee, separates from each other. The small streets swing through a wide hilly landscape, golden yellow cornfields contrast with the blue of the lake, deep green, moist meadows give an idea of ​​how swampy the lowlands used to be. Almost as swampy as the bird sanctuary on the Mettnau peninsula, which stretches from Radolfzell into the Untersee. In Stein, there is an end to the large lake, namely in Stein am Rhein. Here the Germans’ favorite current emerges from the lake again, only to plunge into the depths shortly afterwards, near Schaffhausen, spraying and roaring. He still lacks such daring in Stein, trundles with relish along the banks of the medievally shaped and magnificently preserved city, can be bridged without any problems. Swing, the south bank of the lake is already reached. Here, too, a wide road runs along the lake and across all dreams, but the hinterland makes up for that even more. Funny streets drift around between half-timbered villages, in a cheerful zigzag between cornfields and vineyards. Thurgau is the name of the area, and – that’s right – a botanist named Muller created the Muller-Thurgau right here. The Vespa is already hissing over the heights, because of the steep slopes of the shoreline known as Seerucken, the view sweeps over and over again in free flight over the Untersee. Hike to the island of Reichenau, a single vegetable garden with hundreds of glittering greenhouses and three defiant churches. Travels over the Wollmatinger Ried – again a bird sanctuary – to Constance, the largest city on Lake Constance. A refreshing lightness blows through the old imperial city, probably carried by the many students who behave in the southwesternmost corner of Germany almost like in Italy. and the tourists who stroll carefree around the harbor. You will also pass a rather unadorned hall in which Konstanz merchants used to sell their linen, in which in 1417 there was even a fight for the election of the Pope. For the only time on German soil, by the way, and that’s why the old department store bears his name: Council. The steamers of the White Fleet depart a few meters further. Their diesels hum reassuringly, the sun loungers enticingly positioned on the upper deck. So let’s go: the big round over Lake uberlinger See. Older men put on explorers’ expressions, women in casual holiday complements hoist headscarves, toddlers board all entrances and exits. A seetrip is funny. And in order to chase thoughts in peace on the journey from A to A, the steamer even has decisive advantages over a Vespa. As there are: continuous supply of coffee and cake, fresh air uninterrupted by helmet compulsions, stimulating chats under the awning and unexpectedly beautiful views of promenades. There is one particularly attractive, namely that of Meersburg, which is why the steamboat trip is briefly interrupted. Whoever trudges up to the castle, a baroque one of course, or gets lost in the vineyards, can have an unobstructed view of the Alps on a clear day, overlook almost the whole lake and rave about the poet Annette von Droste-Hulshoff: “It’s unheard of! “When the steamer sails past the pier in Constance, it has long been clear that this wonderful day can only be crowned with a feast. Would you like a light Muller-Thurgau with Lake Constance whitefish? Or char with a Reichenau vegetable platter? Anyone who does not become a lover of freshwater fish on Lake Constance can hardly be helped. Especially since the consumption serves a craft that was only recently threatened: around 150 professional fishermen go out in small rowing boats, lay out their nets and pots, and rarely return home with more than 20 kilos of catch. By the way, on the Swiss bank, the whitefish is called Egli, which is of course particularly pleasing to motorcyclists – a Egli, but easy to get through. This joy can be increased: Maps of Thurgau are far more edifying than menus. Was Fritz W. Egli allowed to paint with them? In any case, between Konstanz, Weinfelden and Romanshorn, every meter seems built for scooters and biking. Cyclists are also tolerated, and motorized and pedaling two-wheelers can exchange the best overnight tips under the secluded fruit trees. The big hit: a warehouse in straw, offered by several farms for little money and including breakfast. From Romanshorn you take the ferry to Friedrichshafen and from there criss-cross the Tettnang hop-growing area to Lindau. Lindau? Exactly, time for a card to the parents: Dear ones, the lake is beautiful, the food is great, you know it. But you’ve forgotten one thing: the streets are really great. And go tomorrow? I’m going to the Alps for a moment.

Info – Lake Constance

For decades, Lake Constance has enjoyed massive numbers of permanent visitors. It can get tight in the promenade cafes. But the hinterland offers plenty of escape routes into tranquil hilly landscapes.

Most German motorcyclists will inevitably approach Lake Constance from the north. There are fewer constraints with regard to the exact route, because both the Swabian Linzgau and the western Allgau can be considered excellent motorcycle areas. On top of that, a whole chain of sights runs parallel to the lake from the height of Ravensburg. Heiligenberg Castle, Salem Monastery and Ravensburg Old Town are just three of them. If you really need it faster, take the A 81 to Singen or the A 96 in the direction of Bregenz. No need to make certain recommendations: the lake is teeming with hotels and guest houses in all price ranges. However, it is advisable to reserve in advance during the high season and on long weekends. The tourism associations listed below provide addresses. The lake is less lush with camping sites. And above all: Many are almost 100 percent occupied with long-term campers. Reservations in good time are also strongly recommended here. LiteratureThe travel pocket guide “Bodensee” from DuMont Buchverlag, price 19.80 Marks, is extremely practical, stimulatingly written and, on top of that, suitable for tank bags. The bike and hiking map is recommended as a map on site » Bodensee «from RV Verlag for 9.80 Marks, whose scale 1: 75000 guarantees that no street, no matter how small, is left out. InformationThe International Bodensee-Verkehrsverein, Schutzenstrasse 8, 78462 Konstanz, phone 07531/90940, fax 9094944 is committed to the entire region There you can also find the addresses of the local tourism organizations active in every larger Lake Constance community. Worth seeingThe selection can only be subjective, because everyone from bird lovers to hobby sailors can indulge their passion on the lake. Citizens of culture will declare Constance, Meersburg and Stein am Rhein to be an absolute must. The Otto-Dix-Haus, in which the famous painter lived from 1936 to 1969, is located in Hemmenhofen. Hermann Hesse found his domicile in Gaienhofen. And the island of Mainau? A dream for flower lovers, everyone else should be annoyed by the crowd. The extra tip In the constant face of the Alps, just driving on the lively winding roads around the lake may not be enough for one or the other in the long run. But it is just a day trip to the Timmelsjoch: Arrival from Bregenz via the already very promising 200 with Hochtannberg and Flexen passes. Then a few dozen boring kilometers to Oetz, and off you go to the high Alps. If you like, you can still build in the highly recommended, but toll-based Silvretta High Alpine Road. Both at the Silvretta and at the Timmelsjoch, however, they can be closed again due to snow in spring and occasionally as early as September.

380 kilometers in three days

((Climate)) The lake has a very mild climate, so even early spring is good for a trip. ((Route profile)) The small roads around the lake are mostly in very good condition and are also suitable for beginners. ((Kitchen )) Hardly any other region in Central Europe offers better cuisine. Be sure to bring money with you for a gourmet evening – for example on the island of Reichenau. ((Baden)) The bathing beaches are very tempting, the water is clear. But except in midsummer it is unfortunately very cold. Nevertheless: definitely give it a try. ((Ferry)) A trip from Meersburg to Konstanz or from Romanshorn to Friedrichshafen not only saves time, it also increases the impression of the lake. A must.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *