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Change fork sealing rings
Change fork sealing rings
Change fork sealing rings
Loss of oil on the telescopic fork is not just a blemish, because if the oil level is too low, the hydraulic damping is worsened or even disabled.
02/25/2003
Loss of oil on the telescopic fork is not just a blemish, because if the oil level is too low, the hydraulic damping is worsened or even disabled. The result: the stem sways heavily after bumps in the road, and the bike loses contact with the ground on poor roads.
It becomes particularly dangerous if oil gets onto the brake system. That doesn’t have to be the case, because with a portion of basic technical knowledge you can seal the leak yourself.
Because for this “load-bearing” If parts of the fork have to be removed, the entire front end of the motorcycle must be jacked up safely. Good for those who own a machine with a main stand. The others have to come up with suitable auxiliary structures with motor substructures (e.g. board and hydraulic jack).
After the successful removal and dismantling, extreme caution: The surfaces of the standpipes, which are coated with a hard chrome layer, are sensitive components that must never be mistreated with water pump pliers or with a vice without aluminum protective jaws. Even a slight damage to the surface in the stroke area of the sealing rings can no longer be repaired, the only solution is then: buy a new one.
Even small quirks from stone chips are enough to destroy the sensitive lips of the new sealing rings within a few kilometers. Therefore, the standpipes should be carefully examined before installing the new sealing rings.
A further examination of the dismantled fork applies to the bearing shells between the standpipe and the immersion tube, because too much play at this point can also cause sealing rings to leak. Then it can be cleaned first, because now there is a good opportunity to thoroughly clean the inner workings of the fork with benzine and to remove deposits in the damper system.
When assembling, attention must be paid to tension-free assembly and the prescribed torque. Upside-down forks react unwillingly if the lower triple clamp is not tightened with the prescribed torque.
First relieve the front wheel by means of the main stand or a suitable engine support. Then loosen the fork plugs with the telescopic fork still installed (but the clamps of the upper fork bridge already released) and unscrew them. As a precaution, cover the tank with a large cloth to protect it from scratches.
To get to the springs, the fork has to be compressed a little, so the front wheel has to be raised a little. Then slowly pull out the springs and catch the oil with a rag. For later assembly, note the installation direction of the springs and the order of the sleeves and washers, or better: write them down.
After dismantling the brake calipers, front wheel, mudguard and speedometer cable as well as loosening the clamps on the lower triple clamp, the fork legs can be pulled out downwards with slight twisting movements. Before dismantling these parts, once again make sure that the motorcycle is absolutely secure in the front without” check.
Pour the fork oil into a suitable pan. To ensure that all of the oil runs out of the fork, it is best to place the fork leg upside down in the container for some time – compress and rebound” accelerates the process significantly. Do not forget to open the oil drain screw at the bottom of the immersion tube.
In order to separate the standpipe from the immersion pipe, the damper must be unscrewed. If the appropriate special tool is not available, you can block the damper tube with two extensions and the appropriate nut and then loosen the hexagon socket screw on the outside at the lower end of the immersion tube.
Now the locking ring has to be fumbled out. First the mostly dirty and rusted ring is cleaned, then one end is levered out of its groove with a small screwdriver, sometimes you also need circlip pliers. Be careful not to let the ring jump around when loosening it.
In the case of fork types without sliding bushes, the standpipe can be pulled out without the sealing ring loosening; the ring must then be carefully levered out. For types with a sliding bush, the sealing ring comes with it – for this purpose, clamp the immersion tube on the brake caliper mountings in a vice with protective jaws.
Before installing the new sealing ring, its sealing lips are coated with a thin layer of grease. Then – depending on the fork type – either drive the ring into its seat in the immersion tube with a hammer and a large nut or push it together with the old ring, the new one first, from above onto the standpipe.
Cover the standpipe with adhesive tape to protect it from damage from hammer blows. Then drive in the new sealing ring with a hammer and a large punch by tapping on the old sealing ring. Then lever out and remove the old ring, which was also driven in a little.
Upside-down fork: These forks usually work with a cartridge damper. Dismantling is often only possible with special tools – maybe the friendly dealer can borrow it? Even with the upside-down fork, the standpipes must not be clamped directly in the vice because of the risk of deformation.
Loosen the fork plug and the screw on the dip tube while the fork legs are still stuck in the bridges. The glued-in screw wants to be loosened with a strong jerk – be careful, there is oil. If the damper insert rotates with it, it must be held against it (see figure five or special tool).
Now remove the fork legs and pour out the remaining oil. Remove the locking ring, clamp the immersion tube (protective jaws) and pull the standpipe off the immersion tube with a powerful jerk. Some upside-down forks have a complicated inner workings – if in doubt, it is better to return the fork legs completely to the specialist workshop.
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