Footrests

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Footrests
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Footrests

New footpegs for motorcycles
Mount retrofit footrest systems

They are kicked, dragged through and even beheaded in the event of a fall: Footpegs lead to a rather bleak motorcycle life. But nothing works without them. Which is why they should be cherished, cared for or, if necessary, replaced with multifunctional new parts.

Franz Josef Schermer

25.10.2012


Footrests


Schermer

Retrofit footrest systems offer a wide range of adjustment options. Ideally, the shift and brake levers are positioned at the right distance.

Precisely milled parts made of aluminum are devilishly beautiful to look at, regardless of whether they are made of flat or round material, their surfaces naturally shimmer in matt or colorful anodized. Add a little carbon and a few steel screws, and the eye-catchers are ready. But in addition to their looks, retrofit footrests also shine with real practical advantages, as they are ergonomically correct thanks to multiple adjustments to the driver’s leg and foot position. It doesn’t matter whether the driver is 1.65 or 1.95 meters tall and has shoe size 39 or 46. With the standard notch, on the other hand, you are quickly lost.

Which system to choose: cheap or expensive?

At first glance, cheap footrest systems cannot be distinguished from expensive footrest systems (from around 400 euros), because today all of the individual parts of sporty systems are beautifully drawn and made of milled aluminum. If the processing edges around the individual workpieces are cleanly and evenly deburred, the cheap system scores.

The real advantage of an expensive system lies in the bearing points, here needle or ball bearings are mounted and accordingly they are free of play. If such bearings are installed, this is also stated in the product presentation in the brochure or on the footrest manufacturer’s website. Emil Schwarz, known for his backlash-free precision bearings for the steering head and swing arm, is such a bearing freak; he manufactures ratchet systems in which all bearings are equipped with precision bearings, but unfortunately only for a few models.

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However, freedom from play is not really an advantage in practice, you can accept a little play. One should bear in mind, however, that a system with plain bearing bushes needs good sealing of the pivot and joint points, otherwise water and dirt will creep into it. In order to avoid sluggishness, you have to disassemble the footrest system at every major inspection, clean and re-grease its bearing points.

Comfort or racing pegs?
The footpegs themselves are available with more or less sharp points: the “soft” comfort pegs are gentle on the shoes, but the “hard” ones give better support. That is why the hard ones are often referred to as “racing pegs”. Those who like to drive fast and therefore need a secure hold on their shoe soles should choose the sharply jagged racing pegs.

Natural or anodized aluminum?
Opinions differ here, but the fact is that workpieces without chemically applied surface protection become unsightly after a while because corrosion forms. This is not as annoying for cleaning freaks as it is for year-round drivers, because the salt in the winter months in particular makes aluminum surfaces matt and rough.


Footrests


Schermer

This LSL rest system can be moved almost continuously on the horizontal plane.

What tools are needed?
In any case, very good ones, by which we mean: no on-board tools, but real quality goods! You need hexagon and Allen nuts, a ring and open-end wrench and a small torque wrench with an adjustment range of up to 50 Nm. Open-ended spanners with SW 10 and / or 12 are also used to adjust the shift rod. And we also need thread locking, ideally Loctite in medium adhesive quality (Loctite 243 “medium strength”). Because the standard mechanical brake light switch is replaced by a hydraulic one in many retrofit systems, the rear brake line has to be removed for installation. If this is made of rubber, you should use this opportunity to attach a steel braided line.

With or without a sample report?
The popularly known “TuV certificate” should be included with a footrest system that is used on public roads. If it is a sample or parts certificate, the attachment of the footrest system must be assessed by a local test center (TuV, Dekra, KuS) and then entered in the vehicle documents. That costs time and money. If it is a full appraisal, it is sufficient if it is stamped by the cultivating dealer. If you do not have an expert opinion and / or entry for your footrest system, you risk a traffic control fine of at least 50 euros and one point in Flensburg for adding non-type-approved vehicle parts.

Only for qualified screwdrivers?
A sensitive topic, because motorcyclists can do everything … You are not allowed to have two left hands, but neither is it great rocket science. Most of the footrest systems come with understandable and detailed installation instructions. We particularly liked the one from LSL. Because footrest systems are usually delivered in all their individual parts, one thing is absolutely necessary in any case: care! There is no mess or hurry here at all.


Footrests


Schermer

The shift rod should ideally be aligned at a right angle for precise shifting operations.

Settings: A tangible advantage of all retrofit systems are the multiple adjustment options for the footrest position; the notches can be attached in the range of 60 to 80 mm forwards / backwards and up / down. To find the right position, sit loosely in the driving position on the machine and think about it: How do I put my foot on the notch? When you have found the basic setting, screw the catches tight and make sure that the right and left are fastened equally. The inclination of the shift lever and brake lever is adjusted according to the detent position. Both foot levers should point down approximately 15 to 20 degrees. Try it out and heed the reminder: Do I really always drive with toe-toe contact with the foot levers, as the old textbooks dictate? Probably not, at least not on sports machines, because the foot slips back a little on the footrest after braking and / or shifting. That just brings the driving dynamics with it.

Important: When adjusting the shift rod, make sure that it is at an angle of almost 90 degrees to the small shift lever on the gearbox. If this angle is too small or too large, it “pulls” or “pushes” with every shifting process, the shift lever is correspondingly difficult to move and the shifting accuracy is rather poor. The shift rod may be a little more or less inclined towards the foot lever.

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