Table of contents

• Sardinia by motorcycle: recommendation for the off-season Out and about in Sardinia: A frenzy of curves in the relaxation paradise
• Travel info

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17th pictures

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This is how a break is especially fun. Motorcycling in Sardinia offers a lot more: dreamy bays, wild mountains, unforgettable bends and culinary hits.

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Sardinia promotes a good mood – even the cactus there knows that.

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The enchanting old town of Alghero is a feast for the senses and has many good drops in store.

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Clear drinking water bubbles everywhere in the mountains.

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Away from the paved roads, you can experience romantic solitude in Sardinia.

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Low season: free travel on all routes. To the south of Oristano there is a flat landscape and avenues.

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Goats everywhere provide the legendary cheese.

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Lonely bridges offer a view.

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Romantic flair in the alleys of Alghero.

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Castelsardo is the corner of the land to live.

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One of the most beautiful campsites is in Palau. From there, your gaze wanders to Isola Maddalena.

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The remains of Gairo Vecchio.

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From the outside just a pile of stones, from the inside atmospherically illuminated: the nuraghi.

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Tired of fantastic roads and curves.

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Motorcycle travel in Sardinia is like vacationing with friends.

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All ferry connections to Sardinia can be found at www.ferrylines.com.

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Sardinia capital: Cagliari Area: 24 090 km². Established: 1946 Autonomy Currency: Euro Population: 1,675,411.

to travel

Sardinia by motorcycle: recommendation for the off-season

Sardinia by motorcycle: recommendation for the off-season
Out and about in Sardinia: A frenzy of curves in the relaxation paradise

Sardinia is one of the handful of real motorcycle paradises within reach. The mixture of dreamlike bays, wild mountains, unforgettable curves and culinary hits ensures adrenaline rushes and indulgence goose bumps.

08/30/2012

Then it penetrates the helmet, that scent of flowers, blossoms, warmth and relaxation that is typical for Mediterranean islands. I stop the BMW in the market square of Santa Teresa and let the tension of the last few weeks flow out of me. The centuries-old alleys are deeply relaxing, the Caribbean-looking beach does the rest, and I immediately throw my route planning overboard. Sit me in the sand, just sit there, mute and moved. It wasn’t always so nice here, because Sardinia had to go through hard times in the past in terms of occupation history. Over the centuries everyone was there, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Phoenicians, Genoese, Arabs, Pisans, Spaniards, Piedmontese and finally those who stayed – the Italians as such. Of course, none of them came to bring presents, but to get some. They landed empty-handed, withdrew with full hands, and the Sardinians were left with hunger and slavery.

The first kilometers along the northwest coast are pure pleasure gliding, gentle hills undulating in front of the GS. Along the streets and paths there are countless little walls that are finely meshed across the whole country. Remnants of a land reform from 1820, which was completely ludicrous: In order to introduce private property, the decree was issued that everyone could keep the land he was fencing in. This benefited the large landowners who drove their servants to build walls. The little man was left with little, but worst of all was the shepherds, who were no longer allowed to use common land and had to pay for grazing private land.

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In the off-season it becomes clear that Sardinia has little of the hustle and bustle that is otherwise known from Italy. On the entire north-west coast, neither traffic nor through-roads interfere with the gentle ride on a perfectly paved road. Built high on a hill, Castelsardo watches over the sea at his feet, always keeping one eye on Corsica, which is not so terribly far away and can still be seen in the mist of the sea. After a detour to Capo del Falcone, I spend the night in Alghero, which has an incredible old town to offer. In addition, a promenade high up along the fortress wall, peppered with restaurants and bars, from which the view of the sunset is guaranteed. Here, too, it was not always so peaceful, because in 1353, after a serious fight in Porto Conte, the Catalans took control of Alghero and exercised so much influence over the city for the next 400 years that Alghero is now also known as the “Spanish city” . What the heck, it looks great!

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Tired of fantastic roads and curves.

This also applies to the coastal road that takes me from Alghero down the cliffs to Bosa. A dream, a single 47 kilometer dream cast in asphalt. My eyes don’t know where to go anymore. Out to the sea, down the cliffs, up the mountain, or just into the next bend to hit the ideal line? Bosa is also one of the most beautiful cities in Sardinia. Smaller than Alghero and yet just as remarkable, it lies on the Temo river, leaning against a chain of hills, withdrawn from the sea.

I stay on the coast until Santa Margherita, enjoy Caribbean bays and then hit the mountains of the interior, which the Romans called Barbagia, the land of barbarians. Another world opens up: steep limestone plateaus and rock towers, jagged rock faces and deep, dark forests.

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One of the most beautiful campsites is in Palau. From there, your gaze wanders to Isola Maddalena.

Like a ring, the land of barbarians spans the mountains of Gennargentu, where Punta La Marmora also stands, the highest mountain in Sardinia at 1834 meters. Five million sheep and countless goats cavort in the mountains and make the famous Sardinian cheese. I surf for two days through this dramatic mountain world, the most ingenious road is between Desulo and Fonni. Numerous gravel paths branch off, no sign of prohibition. In order to explore it, an additional vacation would have to be submitted and, better still, a lighter motorcycle than my packed 1200 GS would have to be brought along. Should, could – there is always something to optimize, but not now. Now I am enjoying the rush of curves to the full. Then Sardinian cheese and Cannonau di Sardegna, an incredibly good red wine, which, unlike cheese, has not yet achieved such great fame. Wrong, really wrong!

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The remains of Gairo Vecchio.

Cala Gonone, located very close to Dorgali on the coast, can only be reached through a tunnel that leads to a steep, serpentine mountain road that crashes down to the water. How crazy you can drive here. I swing to Palau, enjoy the Costa Smeralda and its hinterland again. There is also some history to be seen at Arzachena. In addition to the nuraghi, the cone-shaped stone towers in the interior, which originate from the Nuragic culture that originated around 1800 BC, and the so-called Saracen towers on the coast, there is a third relic of the past that can be found all over the island. The so-called giant tombs, the Tombi di Gigante, which can also be traced back to the Nu-raghier, were previously considered by the Sardinians as the final resting place of supernaturally strong giants. In fact, however, it was graves that sometimes provided a resting place for more than 200 deceased. It doesn’t help, I have to go here again, there is still so much to experience here, and here I feel at the destination of a damned number of dreams.

Travel info

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Sardinia capital: Cagliari Area: 24 090 km². Established: 1946 Autonomy Currency: Euro Population: 1,675,411.

Sardinia is a dream destination for motorcyclists with a variety of landscapes, ingenious winding roads, Italian moments and moderate tourism, especially in the off-season.

General:
Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean after Sicily. The island is an autonomous region of Italy, has gold and silver deposits and is a nature reserve where thousands of rare animals and plants are protected. The Sardinian economy is based on tourism, petroleum industry, trade, services and information technology. Sheep and goat cheese, wine and cork are exported. With Cagliari, Olbia and Alghero, Sardinia has three commercial airports, important ferry ports are Cagliari, Olbia, Arbatax, Palau and Santa Teresa di Gallura.

getting there:
The ferry is the most popular connection to Sardinia. Otherwise, you can only fly and transport your own motorcycle to the island, information for example at www.riders projekt.de. Or fly and rent on the island. Information, for example, at motorrad-urlaub-sardinien.com or www.sardinienpoint.com. There are several options for arriving by ferry. It makes the most sense from Genoa or La Spezia, especially if you prefer to travel by DB Autozug (www.dbautozug.de). All ferry connections to Sardinia can be found at www.ferrylines.com. Moby Lines, for example, is not a bad choice when it comes to ship quality, service and prices.

Climate and travel time:
The best time to travel to Sardinia by motorcycle is in spring or autumn. It’s so hot in summer that few people enjoy simmering in protective clothing. The winter is mild, but also rich in precipitation.

Motorcycling:
Sardinia is the dream of all bikers turned into a curve. With a few exceptions, the roads are in excellent condition, and the traffic is not as hectic as on the Italian mainland.

Accommodation:
If you want to camp early or late in the year, you should look in the travel guide for campsites. From April to October enough places are open to get around the island easily. Guesthouses and hotels can always be found in the low season, in the high season it can get crowded.

Highlights:
All of Sardinia is a single highlight. It is difficult to emphasize something, when everything is worth seeing and, given the size of the island, can be reached within a short time without any problems. In terms of urban planning, at least San-ta Teresa, Castelsardo, Alghero and Bosa are recommended. In any case, the landscape of the Barbagia, the Monti del Gennargentu, the Costa Smeralda, Costa Verde and Costa del Sud is more than just what you get.

Maps / literature:
The “Sardinia” guide by Peter Hoh and Kristine Jaath from Reise Know-How (EUR 21.50) and the 1: 200,000 scale Sardinia map by Marco Polo (EUR 8.50) offer a wealth of information . The “DuMont Bildatlas Sardinia” for 8.50 euros is ideal for getting in the mood. More information at: www.ciaosardinia.com
Travel time: 8 days. Distance covered: 1200 kilometers.

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