Here’s how it works: All about chains

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Here's how it works: All about chains
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Here’s how it works: All about chains

That’s how it’s done
Everything about chains

Lighter than a cardan shaft, cheaper than a toothed belt drive – the chain still has its place. And certain claims.

08/29/2007

Chain maintenance

Regular care and maintenance guarantee a long service life for motorcycle chains. An incorrectly set chain tension – regardless of whether it is too tight or too loose – inevitably leads to increased wear and is dangerous. Chains that are too loose can jump off the sprocket, and chains that are too tight not only damage the gearbox output bearing, but can even tear due to the extreme loads, especially during compression. It is therefore very important to regularly check the chain slack in accordance with the information in the manual. Also make sure that the rear axle is not crooked in the swing arm. Otherwise the chain would have to describe an arc, so to speak, which extremely accelerates wear. It is therefore essential to use the scales of the clamping devices in the swing ends equally. One of the less popular, but very useful maintenance measures is cleaning to protect the sealing rings from damage, which can ultimately lead to the loss of the permanent grease fillings. To use: Apply the chain cleaning agent available from specialist retailers from around four euros (300 ml can), rework with a paintbrush or brush and then wipe or hose off. Under no circumstances hold onto it with a steam jet. That would rinse out the grease fillings behind the sealing rings. The chain spray should be applied at the latest when the chain is dry (finger test). When spraying the chain: plenty on the inside, moderate on the outside. In addition, it is better to apply more frequently and sparingly than rarely and thickly.


Here's how it works: All about chains


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The chain slack is always measured with the driver seated.


Here's how it works: All about chains


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When spraying chain grease, work more generously on the inside than on the outside. Much does not help much, it is better to lubricate the chain more frequently and sparingly.

Chain locks

If you don’t feel like removing the swing arm when changing the chain, you should opt for an open chain with a lock, which can be installed much faster. The clip locks, which can be installed in a few seconds with the help of pliers, are suitable for the off-road sector, where the secondary ratios are often changed, and for low-performance motorcycles. Very important: the mounting direction of the clip. The closed side must point in the direction of movement of the chain so that the lock cannot open unintentionally while driving. This cannot happen with rivet locks, as they are inseparably riveted with the appropriate special tools (from around 150 euros). Different tools are required for the two different types of rivets, hollow rivets or solid rivets. While the hollow rivet is being expanded with a mandrel, the right tool for the solid rivet simply presses the head flat. Another locking technology are the patented screw locks. Compared to rivet locks, they can be attached without great effort with a suitable small wrench.


Here's how it works: All about chains


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Clip lock, screw lock and rivet lock (from left to right)


Here's how it works: All about chains


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Solid rivet / hollow rivet lock


Here's how it works: All about chains


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No special equipment is required for clip locks and screw locks, a riveting tool helps with the others (left, around 150 euros)

Chain set change

In contrast to the oil change, there is no clear specification in kilometers for the chain set as to when it should be replaced. How do you know whether the chain has reached or even exceeded its wear limit? There are several answers to this question. On the one hand, the adjustment mechanisms for the chain tension are located at the ends of the swing arms. When the markings have reached the end of the scale, it is high time for a new set of chains. However, this is already due when the sprocket has so-called shark teeth or the chain can be lifted off the chainring up to the tooth tips (see photos). Tips for changing chain sets: Always change the complete set, i.e. chain, pinion and sprocket. If only the chain is replaced, it will lengthen extremely quickly on the more or less heavily worn sprockets and pinions. First, with the chain in place and the rear wheel brake locked, loosen the screw connections of the pinion and chain wheel. To open the old chain, either use a cutting disc (“Flex”) or a special chain cutting tool (in specialist shops from around 10 euros). Before installing the new parts, to be on the safe side, compare the number of links in the chain and the number of teeth on the pinion and sprocket with those of the old parts. Then move the chain tensioner to the foremost position in order to facilitate the installation of the somewhat shorter chain, which is not yet worn. After installing the new pinion and the sprocket (use new lock washers or screw locks), mount the chain and close it with a clip, screw lock or rivet lock. Anyone who has opted for an endless chain has to accept the very time-consuming swing arm removal. At the very end, adjust the chain alignment and chain tension and check again after the first few kilometers.


Here's how it works: All about chains


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A chain cutting tool (costs between 10 and 30 euros) for opening and shortening is faster, quieter and usually less dangerous for a hobby screwdriver than the Flex.

Time to change: The markings on the chain tensioner (at the bottom), typical shark teeth on the sprocket (center) and a chain that can be pulled off (left) clearly indicate that the chain set is ready to be replaced.


Here's how it works: All about chains


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Here's how it works: All about chains


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