Chain locks

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Chain locks

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Chain locks

Chain locks
Chain locks

In most cases, it is a hell of a job to replace an endless chain: remove the rear wheel, loosen the shock absorber (s), remove the swing arm, remove the chain, insert the chain and put the whole thing back together in reverse order.

02/25/2003

In most cases, changing an endless chain is a hell of a job: remove the rear wheel, loosen the shock absorber (s), remove the swing arm, remove the chain, insert the chain and put the whole thing back together in reverse order. The assembly of an open chain and a chain lock takes much less time, because in principle nothing has to be unscrewed and reassembled. And if the old chain is endless, it is simply flexed or sawn through.

There are clip, screw or rivet locks to close the open chain. As a precaution, clip locks should only be mounted on motorcycles up to 34 HP, while screw locks and rivet locks can handle significantly more power. Incidentally, the patented screw locks are only available from Langenscheidt and Motorrad-Schuller. When it comes to rivet locks, a distinction is made between tubular rivet locks and solid rivet locks: The hollow rivets are spread with a mandrel, while the solid rivets are flattened – for both you need a special tool.

Clip lock


Chain locks

1. First connect the chain ends placed on the chain wheel. Then press on the tab with the pliers – don’t forget the O-rings beforehand.


Chain locks

2. When the plate is pressed on far enough (grooves become visible), attach the clip – it is essential to note the direction in which the chain runs.


Chain locks

3. The clip is now pushed on with the pliers. The pliers should be of good quality, otherwise it is easy to squeeze your fingers.


Chain locks

4th. This is how the clip sits correctly: This shows that it closes correctly on the left and that it snaps into place when it is put on.


Chain locks

Screw lock


Chain locks

1. With the screw lock, the tab is not pressed on with pliers, but with figure eight nuts. Again, don’t forget to slide the O-rings on beforehand.


Chain locks

2. The nuts are tightened until the tabs are aligned, but the O-rings are not yet squeezed – check every now and then.


Chain locks

3. After careful and even tightening, both threads are kinked at the predetermined breaking point – only shown here on one.


Chain locks

4th. Last but not least, the small O-ring is placed in the remaining groove to protect against dirt. The same procedure is then carried out on the other pin.


Chain locks

Hollow rivet lock


Chain locks

1. Here the tab is pressed on using the Gericke tool for RK chains (139 marks, as of 1995). Remember the O-rings.


Chain locks

2. The press-on plate comes off, the expanding mandrel becomes visible. This is used to pierce the hollow rivet. The tool is also good for cutting.


Chain locks

3. By piercing the rivet, it is widened – a slight widening of the rivet is sufficient for a secure fit.


Chain locks

4th. Done: The difference to the non-expanded state is barely noticeable. But it lasts, and it’s relatively easy to use.

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