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Last exit Hunsruck

Endless curves, dense forests and the oldest city in Germany ?? the Hunsruck, the low mountain range between the Rhine, Moselle and Nahe, is an ideal area for the end of the season.

Michael Moritz


Karl is in his element. And I’ve probably been the victim of a misunderstanding. Because Karl’s dream route? the approximately 140-kilometer-long Hunsruck-Hohenstrabe ?? turns out to be practically curve-free terrain. At least from my point of view. Karl’s point of view is different, comes from a “deeper” perspective, so to speak: Karl drives an Intruder. And his greed for curves is limited. Comfortable cruising is his thing. A real easy rider. Even if it goes to France and not to Mexico. Break. Karl would much rather roll a cigarette than, as he admits, scratch the asphalt in tight turns with his running boards. But he knows his way around and knows that I’m not in the mood for wide, almost dead straight streets. A second cigarette, then he fumbles a worn card out of his leather vest, and with his index finger runs a maze of routes that make me dizzy just watching. This is exactly what my dreams are made of. I should definitely drive to the 818 meter high Erbeskopf, and of course along the Moselle to Trier, from there on small, extremely winding roads to Hermeskeil. Or to the Rhine or … My initial disappointment gives way to spontaneous anticipation. I will have to spend a few days here if I want to ride all the promising routes. It’s good that Karl also has an overnight tip ready. Every evening we will meet in strategically located Morbach. In Karl’s local pub. There will be no misunderstanding here, at least when it comes to beer. While Karl is probably cruising the Hohenstrabe again, I rush towards the Moselle. Hardly out of Moorbach, I’m already on a little road on which two cars can only pass each other with a lot of luck. In endless combinations of bends, the route gradually winds its way downhill towards the river valley. Villages? Nothing. Only a yard every now and then. Oncoming traffic? Fortunately as good as none. So exactly my thing? a territory for curve desperados. The bandit only comes to rest in droning. It comes to a standstill a few bends behind the place where the Moselle valley opens deep below me. The ingenious view lets me interrupt my corner frenzy for a few minutes. It’s a shame that the B 53, which runs directly along the river on the opposite bank, is now very busy in autumn ?? You get stuck from wine tasting to wine tasting, but I’m in the mood for something else anyway: Instead of different types of wine, I’ll try a few little streets that seem all too tempting on the menu. I turn the bandit and disappear south through the Dhrontal. It goes slightly uphill to Hermeskeil, the path hardly has two lanes, but countless curves, some of which can almost be described as hairpin bends, until I hit a hook shortly after Hermeskeil and on a no less exciting route towards the northwest to Trier ride. Not on the straight B 52, but via Schondorf and Sommerau on roads of the second and third order. A good map helps immensely on these small routes. Trier, Germany’s oldest city, was built by the Romans in 180, was the capital of the Western Roman Empire in the third century and was considered the most important city of the Roman Empire up to the fourth century, along with Constantinople, Rome and Alexandria Western world was true. So I’m on historically significant ground. Trier is well attended in autumn, and of course everyone wants to see the city’s landmark: the Porta Nigra at the entrance to the old town, which is one of the most powerful city gates that the Romans have ever built and towers adorned with columns, between two arches through which one enters the city center then as now. And probably in a thousand years, too, because the dark stone gate looks like it was built to last. Just a few steps further is the main market, extremely lively and flanked by brightly painted buildings from different eras. A good place for a break that was long overdue, but soon I’m drawn out of town again. The road follows the Saar over a curved landscape, offers plenty of driving fun in the midst of the fiery glowing vines and finally leads me to Saarburg. I take a quick look at the ancient water mills on the banks of the Leuk, then I have my sights set on the extremely curvy again: the route via Losheim and Weiskirchen, which takes me back to higher regions with a few switchbacks ?? on the Hunsruckhohe. Immediately after Hermeskeil, from Borfink, I finally take a “white” side road under my wheels, which takes me straight to the Erbeskopf. When the last few kilometers to Morbach turn out to be an attractive motorcycle lane, after the misunderstanding of yesterday I am satisfied with the world again. The next morning the big disappointment ?? the view from the window does not bode well. The sky over Morbach, called the “sun parlor of the Hunsruck”, is covered with fat, dark clouds. Things only look a little better when you look to the east. Fortunately, this is exactly the direction I want to explore today anyway: the road leads through dense forest to the gemstone metropolis of Idar-Oberstein. Already yesterday I noticed the seemingly endless spruce and deciduous forests that were reforested by the Prussians in the last century on the slopes and areas that were cleared at that time. Today the Hunsruck is once again one of the most forested areas in Germany. The region with the most precious stones is the Hunsruck anyway, even if the natural resources are almost exhausted ?? in Idar-Oberstein everything revolves around precious agates, amethysts and emeralds. Countless companies deal with the trading of stones and jewelry production, the most important stone exchange in Germany and the German Gemstone Museum are based in this 40,000-soul town. Truly a very rich area. Behind the place I only drive the Suzuki off and directly along the Nahe in the direction of Bad Kreuznach. Again and again I turn on the indicator, turn left, leave the Nahe valley along with the main road and zirkle curvy through the Hunsruck mega fun park. A brief look at the ruins of the old fortress of the mighty Schmidtburg, which once served as a hiding place for the legendary Captain Schinderhannes, before I reach the pretty Bad Kreuznach, which is on a 2000 year old Roman trade route that led to Trier at the time. Nowadays the health resort is more popular with older people, so I feel a bit out of place and rush towards Bingen, where the Nahe flows into the Rhine. Here I turn the bandit north, leave the Rheinhighway B 9 on the right and get there on the smallest dream streets with steep inclines back up to the Hunsruckhohe. During my “high-altitude flight” I have the best views over the Rhine valley to the Loreley rock. Unfortunately, the rain clouds of this morning have caught up with me this morning. Via the Hunsruck-Hohenstrabe I quickly get to the quarter where I later wanted to meet Karl. But he’s already waiting for me in the restaurant. He didn’t get it off that well. Or more correctly: The rain has caught him in full and his chasm is already hanging in the drying room. His chrome bomber is also slightly defaced. Here a water stain, there a dirt sharpener. Karl is scary. And I’m amused because he actually insists on going on the next outing together. I should only come here on a decent motorcycle…


As the southernmost part of the Rhenish Slate Mountains, the Hunsruck rises up to 818 meters between the valleys of the Moselle, Saar and Rhine. Often dead straight roads lead over the plateaus, but all around offer deeply cut valleys with small winding fun streets for robbing bends.

Due to its central location, Morbach is a good starting point for a tour through the Hunsruck. The quickest way to get there is via the A 61 and aim for the Emmelshausen exit. Now just follow the B 372 in the direction of Hermeskeil to Morbach. Travel time April to October. It is particularly beautiful in the Hunsruck in spring, when the fruit trees are in bloom, or in autumn, when the trees give off a great play of colors due to their discolored leaves. A rain suit always belongs in the luggage in this region. AccommodationHotels and guesthouses can be found in every place in the Hunsruck. A good tip is the “Hotel am Kirschbaum” in Morbach, phone 06533/93950, fax 939522. 65 marks per person including half board are to be paid ?? a garage for motorbikes and a drying room for wet clothes included. In addition, the family business offers a motorcycle weekend arrangement: the price of 149 marks includes two nights with half board and elaborated route maps with beautiful routes. Further information: Verkehrsamt Morbach, Unterer Markt 1, 54497 Morbach, phone 06533/71117, fax: 06533/3003, e-mail: for 12.80 marks still offers a good overview of the region. Motorcycle-friendly route tips can be found in the »Denzel ?? Motorcycle Tours South Germany «. 67 tours are described in great detail. 39 marks, ISBN 3-85047-755-X. A good map: Mairs general map, sheet 12, “Bonn, Saarbrucken, Luxembourg” on a scale of 1: 200000. Distance covered: Approximately 450 kilometers Time required: Two days

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