Table of contents

• Motorcycle tour in southern Norway Lots of quiet streets and few people
• Instagram highlights Kjeragbolten and Preikestolen
• Wild camping on steep walls
• Cruising through southern Norway’s lake landscape
• Info

Dirk Schafer

18th pictures

Dirk Schafer

1/18
There quickly: via Hirtshals / Denmark to the Norwegian ferry port Kristiansand.

Dirk Schafer

2/18
Excellent in southern Norway: cruising through the lake landscape on narrow roads.

Dirk Schafer

3/18
Where to go in this terra incognita?

Dirk Schafer

4/18
Locals give the tip: Always along the wall to the Jøssingfjord.

Dirk Schafer

5/18
Berg ahoy: The way to Kjeragbolten is no walk in the park.

Dirk Schafer

6/18
International screwing: The Czech XTs need an intensive treatment.

Dirk Schafer

7/18
German cosiness with a sheltered evening camp.

Dirk Schafer

8/18
Forget every burger – fish sandwiches at its best!

Dirk Schafer

9/18
Long days make you thirsty and often end in long nights. It’s been light outside for a long time.

Dirk Schafer

10/18
A steep path leads up to the north side of the fjord origin.

Dirk Schafer

11/18
We are deeply impressed by the southern Norwegian landscape.

Dirk Schafer

12/18
We were out in the last week of May and had mild weather almost constantly.

Dirk Schafer

13/18
At high altitudes it was sometimes very cold.

Dirk Schafer

14/18
Rainproof clothing and changing gloves should be in your luggage.

Dirk Schafer

15/18
Real buddies take care of each other: Without a chain, you travel much more slowly.

Dirk Schafer

16/18
Wooden hut instead of cloth hut: There is more space for socializing in the holiday house than in our cramped tents.

Dirk Schafer

17/18
Before crossing to Denmark, we rented a hut for a permanent roof over our heads in front of Kristiansand in Søgne.

Dirk Schafer

18/18
Check out from the north, shortly before the crossing back to Denmark.

to travel

Tour tips

Motorcycle tour in southern Norway

Motorcycle tour in southern Norway
Lots of quiet streets and few people

In Norway there are only 14 inhabitants per square kilometer on average. Although the south is much more densely populated, you will find many quiet streets there. Let’s go to southern Norway.

Dirk Schafer

06/19/2021

In the annual search for a destination for our Father’s Day venture, thoughts plunge into a great void. Where else should you go? No, not because of Corona. This story takes place before the big C. But let’s be honest: At some point you saw all seven wonders of the world! So where to go?? “What about Norway??” An embarrassed silence takes hold.

Buy complete article

Motorcycle tour in southern Norway
Lots of quiet streets and few people

6 pages) as PDF

€ 2.00

Buy now

“Norway?” Several faces form into question marks and unfurl into states that tend either in the direction of Mr. Spock’s raised eyebrow or total relaxation. I object to being more of the southern type. Others awaken from their delirium: “That’s terribly expensive, isn’t it?” But for reasons that are no longer comprehensible, the concerns are thrown overboard. Almost like when we crossed the Sahara, when we didn’t care about navigation skills and just drove off. None of the dear friends suspects that this excursion will offer more surprises than desired. Especially with regard to undiscovered maintenance deficiencies …

Instagram highlights Kjeragbolten and Preikestolen

So now there: A Swiss cheese is a laughing stock, measured against the holes Norway has drilled in its mountains. Since we rolled off the ferry in Kristiansand, we have just passed tunnel number six. High time to let daylight on the pupils again in the long term. Past fjords that will be exchanged for lakes at some point, Wolfram, as a personified compass needle, points north to reach a fjord again. The Lysefjord. If I knew Norway as well as the south of France, I would know that apart from this fjord, Norway’s absolute Instagram highlights Kjeragbolten and Preikestolen are also ahead of us. But we are on the wrong side of the water for the monster rock face of the Pulpit Rock. But the trapped rock of the Kjeragbolten would be within reach. Although: you have to hike there. Several hours.

26 switchbacks later

Dirk Schafer

A steep path leads up to the north side of the fjord origin.

Patterned like a cow’s skin, the landscape spreads out on the fell in front of the Lysefjord. Stately snow remnants and opal blue lakes exude the spirit of an impressive wasteland. Then the arid street with the telegraph line squeezes into a ravine. Before we can see the route further, the telephone wires plunge into the vertical. And we afterwards. I am sure there is a breathless one behind every helmet visor “Whoa!” listen. Old Norwegian! You knocked something out of the earth! The Arctic Ocean flows 42 kilometers into the country and divides the country into north and south, above and below. We are up. 26 switchbacks later below. Welcome to Lysebotn. The few lights go on in the tiny place. All accommodations are occupied. But we’ve always had tents with us since the Sahara times. The only thing missing is a smart place.

Wild camping on steep walls

But where in this world of steep walls? A steep path leads up to the north side of the fjord origin. From here we can see the hairpin bends like on Google Earth 3-D. Only better. We set up the tents in a stony niche in the rock. The cookers hiss the dinner right. Mountains of clouds rumble over the gray-blue fjord, the 26 hairpin bends of yesterday tower in front of us. The temperature stays in the single-digit range. I have just warmed up the tires in the snappy bends when I see Ralfs 701 turn into the Kjeragbolten parking lot next to the cafe of the same name. The others are already standing next to their carts and fidgeting with their clothes. “How, already a break?” “No, we want to go to the Kjeragbolten.” – “Really? I guess I missed something yesterday. How far should that be?” – “About four hours.” It starts to drizzle. “Did I mention being more of the southern type?”, I mumble into my helmet without waiting for an answer. In my opinion, it’s already raining. Do the others not notice? Or are they already in the Kjeragbolten Instagram fever? None of us has regular hiking clothes with us. But whatever? Coarse shoes are not wrong when hiking, rain suits replace the Gore-Tex fumble. Since we are standing on a plateau, no one expects extraordinary gradients. First mistake. Or rather: the second. Because the waterproof, but also air-impermeable rain protectors make us sweat like ocelots in the sauna.

Dirk Schafer

Coziness with a sheltered evening camp.

After an hour I’ve had enough, I join Felix, who is starting the early way back. The others go on alone, as in Amundsen’s and Scott’s polar expeditions. Let them take their photos on the ball. I’m just the southern type. Accordingly, when I get back to the parking lot and the cafe, I just can’t get past a cappuccino. I get to know the Norwegian price landscape once again. There would have been three in Germany for this cappuccino. Six in Italy.

Cruising through southern Norway’s lake landscape

We have got used to cruising through the lake landscape and the narrow streets. The view goes far into the country, the German haste is gone. No wonder that Guido is not the only one to notice the two ancient Teneres in a parking lot, one of them torn like a chicken with digestive problems. We stop and meet two Czechs who want to go to the North Cape. However, the condition of the chicken raises doubts as to its success. Despite the knowledge and tools that have been gathered, the poor thing cannot be breathed into life. The Czechs take it easy. Somehow it will go on. Shortly afterwards we can’t go any further.

In Åmot, an inconspicuous place whose most important characteristic for the time being is the existence of a gas station, we turn to Rauland. When I check the rearview mirror to see if everyone is still there, I note two things that are missing: Ralf on the old BMW F 650 GS and Klaus on the almost new Honda Africa Twin. I count to ten in my head. The two do not appear, so U-turn. A few hundred meters behind the intersection is the F with a broken chain. Ralf cannot explain the wear and tear. The other experts do and suspect the end of the service life. But what Ralf brusquely rejects: “Oh, the few ten thousand kilometers!” And now?

Breakdown 1: chain

The next day goes by with Ralf and I’s unplanned trip to Skien. 260 kilometers to get a new chain. 24 hours later, the small municipality of Åmot had a snow shower and the F had new chain links. Now we are heading for the coast south of Stavanger. Proudly weathered landscapes and unfathomable lakes slide past. At Jøssingfjord we see the sea water again, and the road washes from a hill through rock walls down to the fjord. Only a small one among thousands of fjords. But with a special story: This is where a chase ended, which had started somewhere between Uruguay and South Africa during the Second World War in the South Atlantic. The German supply ship “Altmark” had 299 captured seamen from caper voyages on board. The Royal Navy knew about it, and eventually tracked down the ship in the Jøssingfjord in Norway, which was neutral at the time, freed the prisoners and left them “Altmark” back with the astonished Germans.

Dirk Schafer

Real buddies take care of each other: Without a chain, you travel much more slowly.

Breakdown 2: battery

The North Sea flashes through the sunny mountains of Åna-Sira. We follow Lake Lundevatnet to the mouth of the Sira and stay longer. Not just because of the beauty of nature. Klaus ’Africa steamer reports that the battery has boiled over. He cannot explain the damage to the accessory battery. The other experts do and suspect incompatibilities between the lithium-ion pack and the rest of the bike. What Klaus brusquely rejects. And now?

Breakdown 3: oil leak

The 701 Husqvarna from the second Ralf has the fewest kilometers on the clock and comes to the start as a battery supply vehicle. We sunbathe by the water for three hours. Then the sun will rise again for Klaus and the Africa-Twin. But shortly before the ferry port, the asphalt darkens under Felix ’Dominator, born in 1988, first series. Felix cannot explain the oil leak – the bike is young, just over 30. The other experts are. And now? Better to get on the ferry quickly while it still works!

Info

Arrival / season: The shortest way to reach the destination is via the ferry connection from Hirtshals in northern Denmark to Kristiansand in southern Norway. 520 kilometers run through the meter from Hamburg to Hirtshals. It is 790 kilometers from Berlin and around 840 kilometers from Dortmund. We were out in the last week of May and had mild weather almost constantly. At high altitudes it was sometimes very cold. Rainproof clothing and changing gloves should be in your luggage.

The distance: You can make good progress on the main routes, although many roads near the coast require an extra time due to bypassing the fjords. Many inland routes are winding, the road conditions are good. Sometimes they have the character of a single trail. There are alternate points at regular intervals. The way to Kjeragbolten and on to Lysebotn by the Lysefjord leads to a dead end. Unless you take the ferry that runs there twice a day. The routes to Lysebotn and from there to Rysstad / Valle via Fv 337 are particularly attractive. We covered a total of 940 kilometers in Norway. The extra stage to get a new chain, however, was not included.

Dirk Schafer

Before crossing to Denmark, we rented a hut for a permanent roof over our heads in front of Kristiansand in Søgne.

Accommodation: In Åmot we have each other “Groven Camping & Hyttegrend” granted a cozy hut. The smallest was available from 56 euros. Before crossing to Denmark, we also rented a hut for a permanent roof over our heads off Kristiansand in Søgne. For six people it costs from around 100 euros. The remaining nights were wild camping.

Activities: There are several photogenic highlights of Norway at the Lysefjord. On the one hand, there is the spectacularly trapped rock of the Kjeragbolten. You should plan five hours for the hike there. A similar highlight is the Pulpit Rock with a fantastic view over the fjord. Those who are physically fit can try their hand at Flørli’s 4,440-step wooden staircase. Once at the top, breathing hard and sweaty, you can see the magnificent Lysefjord again.

Map: The southern Norway map from freytag & Berndt shows everything between Oslo, Bergen and Stavanger on a detailed scale of 1: 250,000. This good orientation aid is available for 11.90 euros.

Related articles

• Norway in midsummer by motorcycle

  Lohse 12th pictures Lohse 1/12 With a motorcycle through Norway in midsummer. It burns here for weeks “eternal light”. Lohse 2/12 On the way to Å, the…

• Motorcycle tour Panamericana part 1

  Army car 27 pictures Army car 1/27 A MOTORRAD volunteer fulfills a lifelong dream: from Alaska to California on a motorcycle. Army car 2/27 Pure nature:…

• Motorcycle tour – the north of Chile

  Markus Biebricher 14th pictures Markus Biebricher 1/14 Communicative: break at the trucker bar in the middle of nowhere Markus Biebricher 2/14 Evening…

• Motorcycle trip – season finale in southern France

  Dirk Schafer to travel Motorcycle trip – season finale in southern France Motorcycle trip – season finale in southern France In the slipstream of summer…

• Motorcycle trip – Norway in summer

  Joachim Deleker to travel Motorcycle trip – Norway in summer Motorcycle trip – Norway in summer Weatherproof Norway in summer, time of light, time for a…

• Motorcycle tour – border between Sweden and Norway

  Deleker 22nd pictures Jo Deleker 1/22 On all fells – on the move in Sweden. Jo Deleker 2/22 Swedish moments: curious moose. Jo Deleker 3/22 Swedish…

• Motorcycle tour in Scotland

  Breakable 22nd pictures Breakable 1/22 Island happiness: The slender streets of the Isle of Mull enchant especially around the highest mountain Ben More…

• Motorcycle tour Himalaya Ladakh

  Photo: Lohse 32 pictures Lohse 1/32 Lohse 2/32 … must not rely on perfect conditions. But a lot can be mastered on the Enfield. Lohse 3/32 Lohse 4/32…

• Motorcycle tour Greece Ionian Islands

  Dirk Schafer 21 pictures Dirk Schafer 1/21 Ithaca: Sure, Odysseus wanted to come back here! The bay of Filiatro invites you to take a spontaneous swim….

• Motorcycle tour through Bolivia

  Daniel Lengwenus 29 pictures Lengwenus 1/29 Experienced globetrotter takes on a young student for her first tour of South America. An adventure in itself…