On the move in Eastern Europe

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On the move in Eastern Europe
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On the move in Eastern Europe

On the move in Eastern Europe
Once the Baltic Sea – Aegean Sea

Adventure is only available in Africa or Asia? Are you kidding me? Are you serious when you say that! A trip from Poland via the Czech Republic, Hungary, Romania and Bulgaria to Greece is no less exciting.

Frank Wolf

10/09/2003

Patrick and I have our sights set on the Polish Baltic coast, we have been stubbornly heading north since we left our hometown Innsbruck a few days ago. Despite the good roads, the last part of our journey to the west of Poland turns out to be an extremely tough affair: we constantly have to torment the engines of our enduros to the limit in order to get past the countless stinking trucks. It is clear that our Suzuki DR 650 and DR 500 are hardly suitable for eating kilometers, but that’s not why we’re here. Our plan: to travel on country roads from the Baltic Sea through Poland, Slovakia, Romania and Bulgaria down to the Greek Mediterranean beaches.

Finally, for the first time, the sea flashes through the trees. But a little later our desire for sun, sand and waves is practically nipped in the bud: the beaches of Sopot or Kolobrzeg are in no way inferior to the Mediterranean beaches of Rimini or Lorett in terms of bath towel density. At night, the bass that emanates from the many discos hardly lets us sleep.


On the move in Eastern Europe


wolf

Eastern Europe tour, MOTORRAD 22/2003

We flee to the narrow Hel peninsula, discover a little paradise. We pitch our tent in the sand dunes right by the sea. Nobody far and wide, and while our feet are buried in the sand, the sun is just dipping into the Baltic Sea and conjuring up an orange-red play of colors on the horizon. On this evening, even the Polish canned beer tastes extremely good.

All around satisfied we go to sleep? which turns out to be a very brief pleasure. In the middle of the night we are rudely woken up by two heavily armed soldiers from the Polish Navy. We had to disappear immediately, this was a restricted military area. We have never loaded the motorcycles so quickly.

The next day we land a little tired in Gdansk, take time to stroll through the narrow streets of the medieval old town, marvel at the many splendidly renovated Gothic churches and buildings. The famous Gdańsk amber can be bought in all imaginable variations on every corner: as a lighter, paperweight, earring or key ring. Whether there is also an amber-covered gas cap?

Out and about in Eastern Europe (Info)

France, Italy and Spain are very popular when it comes to going on vacation. For good reason. You just know what to expect? in the positive as in the negative. Eastern Europe, on the other hand, is the great unknown. And stories of mafia-like conditions on the roadside persist. The East is better than its reputation. Much better if you are willing to improvise a little. Anyone who travels there now will discover an extremely interesting part of Europe.

Accommodations
Travel information about Eastern Europe is difficult to generalize, as the individual countries differ not only in terms of landscape, but especially in terms of infrastructure. In principle, Poland, the Czech and Slovak Republics as well as Hungary have an almost “western” standard. At most in very remote regions, the supply situation? like in southern Europe ?? be a little poorer. If you travel to Romania or Bulgaria, on the other hand, you should be prepared for the fact that the search for accommodation can sometimes take a little longer, despite the constantly improving infrastructure. In a simple room in a private pension, which can be found almost everywhere, you sleep from ten euros. For an overnight stay in a hotel in a big city or in touristically interesting places you have to calculate from 35 euros. Tent and sleeping bag provide more independence ?? Campsites are becoming more and more numerous, especially in the Carpathian Mountains.

Easy entry
A passport that is valid for at least six months, the vehicle registration certificate and a green insurance card for the vehicle are sufficient for the countries mentioned in the text. Waiting times must be expected at the borders; Motorcyclists are treated very courteously. For Russia or Ukraine you need a visa, which has to be applied for several weeks in advance: Consular section of the Ukrainian embassy, ​​phone 030/288870, www.botschaft-ukraine.de; Russian Embassy, ​​phone 030/2291129, www.russische-botschaft.de. You can now travel to Macedonia (see www.auswaertigesamt.de) and Albania with some restrictions. An arrival or return journey via the Balkans via Croatia is no longer excluded.

No fear!
Prejudices persist? from vehicle theft to organized robber gangs to common tricksters. The fact is: If you don’t leave your valuables lying around and always leave your vehicle in a guarded parking lot or in the hotel garage, you will almost certainly not have any problems. In addition, motorcycles are not regarded as preferred stolen goods. Greater caution applies? like everywhere ?? in big cities and on the busy transit routes. You shouldn’t be out at night because of unlit construction sites or wagons. In general, all countries can be traveled with any street motorcycle. A range of around 200 kilometers is sufficient. Unleaded petrol is available at all major petrol stations. Take the complete on-board tools, tire repair kit, Bowden cables, chain spray and clutch and brake levers with you.

No euro countries
The biggest nerve when traveling through Eastern Europe is currency exchange. The general rule is: never exchange black, but rather go to the official exchange offices at the respective borders. Hotels and banks also exchange euros. With the EC card, money can be withdrawn from ATMs in every city. Credit cards are accepted in larger hotels and shops. Tip: Spend all the money from country A before entering country B, because you are either not allowed to export it (Poland, Bulgaria) or you cannot exchange it (Bulgaria does not accept Romanian leu). Larger daily newspapers, most banks or look at www.waehrungsrechner.de for current exchange rates.

Travel in groups
“Roberts Motorradreisen” (phone 0511/876050; www.roberts-motorradreisen.de) offers guided tours through many parts of Poland, through the Baltic States and to Romania. “Hit-Motorradreisen” (phone 0911/2878505; www.hit-mr.de) specializes in the Czech Republic and Slovakia. Off-road fans should contact the former Dakar driver Michael Griep, who leads through Hungary (phone 0711/6209493; www.roadbooktouren.de). Another tip for off-road freaks: the Enduromania, an off-road rally through the Romanian Carpathians. Information under phone 069/6702652; www.enduromania.de.

Well informed
Handy and also quite informative are the 130-page Marco Polo guides for 7.95 euros each (www.marcopolo.de). The corresponding “thick” issues of Reise-Know-How provide significantly more information (www.reise-know-how.de). The Eastern European volume from the Unterwegs edition makes you want to explore this region with seven motorcycle travel stories, although it is no longer entirely up-to-date (as of 2000); 16 euros (www.motorbuch-versand.de). At the Foreign Office you can find out everything about entry requirements and any travel warnings at www.auswaertigesamt.de. If you want to travel back from Greece by ferry, you have to calculate from around 160 euros for one person plus motorcycle for a one-way passage to Venice. Bookings can be made in any travel agency or, for example, with DERTRAFFIC by calling 069/95885800. On the Internet, www.ocean24.de or www.ferriesonline.com provide information about almost every European ferry connection. The Shell Euro cards from Marco Polo cover the countries of Eastern Europe on a scale of 1: 750,000. For 7.50 euros each. From Freytag & Berndt comes to »Balkans / Southeast Europe« on a scale of 1: 2,000,000 for 9.80 euros. For a trip through Romania and Bulgaria, we recommend the Travelmag card of the same name on a scale of 1: 800,000 for 7.50 euros.

On the move in Eastern Europe (2)


On the move in Eastern Europe


wolf

Eastern Europe tour, MOTORRAD 22/2003

As attractive as this Hanseatic city is? the thought of the route that lies ahead drives us on. Seemingly endless avenues lead through the Masuria, the lake district in the northeast of the country. We rush through ancient beech forests and pass pretty little villages. We like this part of Poland so much that we spontaneously decide on a multi-day canoe tour.

The search for two suitable boats, however, turns out to be an almost detective endeavor. Only after three days do we find a rental company in Suwalki that gives us two ancient and not very trustworthy canoes with which we want to explore the Elk for almost 100 kilometers. In the upper course of the river, the narrow body of water, interrupted by many idyllic lakes, meanders through untouched, wildly romantic landscapes. Alaskan feeling arises. We camp in small bays and feed ourselves with fish that we have caught ourselves. Except for the sore muscles from the unfamiliar paddling, we just feel good. Only mosquitoes disturb this idyll.


On the move in Eastern Europe


wolf

Eastern Europe tour, MOTORRAD 22/2003

The picture changes drastically after the Elk has flowed through the town of the same name. For two days we row through a dirty broth. The impression of the famous Masurian lake landscape is extremely ambiguous. We’re drawn back to motorcycles.

Back in the saddle of the enduro bikes, we are now heading south. On the transit routes, however, the traffic density is enormous and the road condition is sometimes miserable because the heavy trucks have dug deep ruts into the already poor pavement. And when it rains, the dirty streets quickly turn into dangerous slides. The side streets, on the other hand, turn out to be a positive surprise: hardly any traffic and an astonishingly good surface. These routes would even be feasible for street motorcycles. We pass Warsaw and arrive relatively relaxed in Zakopane, located on the northern edge of the High Tatras.

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