Posted on 19.05.2021 by admin

Repair and reproduce wiring harness How are you? What to watch out for?
Create your own circuit diagram
“Stay away from cheap goods from the Far East”
Always bundle cables together in cable bundles
Use originals whenever possible for classics
Solder or crimp?
Electrician’s gloves are highly recommended
Guide values for cable cross-sections
Principles when working on the electrical system
Correct handling of the wiring harness

Schoch

41 pictures

Marcel Schoch

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This is how it is correct: The insulation must extend to the edge of the contact surface of the connector.

Marcel Schoch

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The shrink tubing is carefully heated with a small gas burner.

Marcel Schoch

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Only slide the shrink tubing over the solder joint after it has cooled down.

Marcel Schoch

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After soldering, both cable ends must form a solid bond along their entire length.

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The two cable ends are soldered by holding them parallel to each other and heating them with the soldering iron.

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The solder creates a firm connection between the individual cable strands.

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Now apply the solder to both wire ends.

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Then coat the cable ends with soldering grease so that the solder flows better.

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Then twist the cable strand with your fingers to form a firm strand connection.

Marcel Schoch

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If you have worked correctly and cleanly, the shrink tube evenly encloses the cable.

Marcel Schoch

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If cable ends are screwed together, cable end grommets must be used to protect the strands
be used.

Marcel Schoch

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Make sure that the pinch tongues of the plug firmly enclose the insulation of the cable.

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Now the cable is plugged into the connector shoe and squeezed.

Marcel Schoch

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Attention, the crimping pliers have different sized crimping teeth! The connector must fit snugly.

Marcel Schoch

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When crimping, don’t forget to pull on the shrink tubing for the insulation beforehand.

Marcel Schoch

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In the case of fabric-sheathed cables, it is advisable to burn off the protruding threads.

Marcel Schoch

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With the cable crimp variant, first strip the cable end with the crimping pliers.

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The grommet is squeezed with the stranded wire by screwing in the fastening screw.

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These are pushed onto the twisted strands of the cables.

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Before soldering, the shrink tubing insulation must be applied to the
Cable can be plugged in.

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Plastic cable ties are the classic when it comes to attaching cable harnesses to motorcycle frames.

Marcel Schoch

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In the area of the steering head you can often see cable harness holders made from easily bendable sheet metal strips.

Marcel Schoch

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When recreating a cable harness, the cable colors and cross-sections must correspond exactly to the standard specifications.

MOTORCYCLE

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These cable cross-sections must not be undercut under any circumstances in order to prevent the cables from scorching through under load.

Marcel Schoch

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When recreating a cable harness, the cable colors and cross-sections must correspond exactly to the standard specifications.

Marcel Schoch

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Model maintenance measures are often not taken into account in the circuit diagrams of many motorcycles.

Marcel Schoch

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Case in point: Here you can see the original positive cable of the alternator, unprofessionally wrapped with bandage tape.

Marcel Schoch

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Wiring harness that is too short at the factory. With the result of two broken cables to the headlight.

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Wrong cable colors and insulation – do not accept such errors when reproducing the cable harness!

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It is advisable to record all the peculiarities and information of the old wiring harness in a separate, self-made circuit diagram.

Marcel Schoch

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Cable grommets, as they were often used on classics or youngtimers, can still be bought by the meter today.

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Fabric-sheathed cables are also available by the meter in the matching colors – just like the original!

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Metal ties to fix the wiring harness maintain the original impression of a classic.

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There are special metal clamps for attaching the wiring harness to the frame.

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Always protect the wiring harness from sharp edges with rubber inserts when passing through lamp pots or fenders.

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Shrink tubing on the cable ends also protect the rear light from splashing water.

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Even if the original wiring harness did not have any shrink tubing, it is recommended to use them as permanent protection against mechanical
Damage.

Marcel Schoch

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With fabric tape, several cables can be combined into a replica cable harness.

Marcel Schoch

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Here an additional shrink tube protects the Lima cable wrapped with fabric tape at the opening in the motor housing.

Marcel Schoch

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However, modern plastic insulation is hidden under the fabric covering.

Marcel Schoch

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When Peter Steger reproduces a cable harness, he documents every single work step.

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Tips for screwdrivers Repair and reproduce wiring harness

Repair and reproduce wiring harness
How are you? What to watch out for?

Content of

In MOTORRAD Classic 09/2015 we showed how the wiring harness on the motorcycle is examined for damage. If an exchange is then unavoidable, there is a lot of work to do on the screwdriver. An expert explains what to look out for in particular.

Marcel Schoch

09/10/2015

Pulling the strings is not rocket science if you follow a few basic rules. This includes, above all, the procedure step by step. “Before starting to replicate a cable harness, it must first be determined which types of cables and plug connections are required,” says Peter Steger, vehicle restorer and co-managing director of the R company&R in Maisach-uberacker. “The decisive factor for success is that you proceed systematically and meticulously document every work step so that nothing is overlooked.”

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Of course, this only works if the old cable harness, which has been infected by the copper worm, is not forcibly torn from the motorcycle. Before even removing a cable, all the details must be recorded in writing. In addition to the cable colors and cross-sections, this also includes their lengths, connections and the associated consumers and switches. A parts list and photos of the individual sections are also helpful here. This documentation should not be dispensed with even if the original circuit diagram is still available!

Create your own circuit diagram

“It is ideal to summarize all the information collected in a separate circuit diagram,” recommends Peter. “The motorcycle manufacturers have often changed the electrical system in the course of the model upgrade without noting this in the circuit diagram in the manual or in the repair instructions.” This is why you should always use your own plan as a basis for purchasing all parts and as a guide for replicating an original one Harness serve. With one restriction: If the wiring harness has been changed by previous repairs by installing wrong color codes, different cable cross-sections or connectors, there is no other option than to determine these changes by comparing them with the original circuit diagram or by consulting with experts. “Even if the old wiring harness worked, you should never make the mistake of recreating these changes one-to-one,” warns Peter. “Because every connector and cable cross-section was once defined by the manufacturer in such a way that they could withstand the current strengths and even certain surges.”

In some cases, however, changes to the standard wiring harness must be adopted. For example, when retrofitting the oldies with indicators. The experts from the testing organizations also pay attention to this, since the electrical system is one of the safety-relevant components.

“Stay away from cheap goods from the Far East”

Marcel Schoch

When Peter Steger reproduces a cable harness, he documents every single work step

Therefore, a few rules must be observed so that the next general inspection goes smoothly. Depending on the respective consumer and the length of the cable, the appropriate cable cross-sections (important information), insulation, cable grommets, fuses and fastenings must always be used. If you don’t pay close attention to this, you will get into trouble with the examiner. In the event of a claim, the professional installation and use of the correct cable material will determine whether the insurance will pay – for example after a cable fire. If you are unsure about this, you should seek advice from a professional. Or it is best to leave the necessary work to the professional.

Especially if you have to compromise on the original condition. One reason for many classic cars can be the fabric-sheathed cables, for example. “Anyone who finds such a cable harness in their motorcycle – even if it is still functional – will sooner or later not be able to avoid a complete replacement,” says Peter.

In these cables, the current-carrying strand is only woven into fabric threads. To protect them from water, they were soaked in resin or similar substances, but over time they harden and become brittle. Then the strand is exposed and causes short circuits. Anyone who nevertheless wants to use fabric-sheathed cables for reasons of originality would prefer to choose products from manufacturers who specialize in vintage electrics, which are additionally equipped with plastic insulation under the fabric sheathing.

Such fabric sheaths are even offered by the meter with special color codes and patterns. “When buying such cables, it is essential to pay attention to quality,” says Peter. “Stay away from cheap goods from the Far East, this also applies to plugs and ordinary cables.” However, good quality cables with a fabric sheathing are not cheap because their production is very complex. But they are absolutely reliable and guarantee a smooth acceptance of the vintage motorcycle.

Always bundle cables together in cable bundles

Marcel Schoch

It is advisable to record all the peculiarities and information of the old wiring harness in a separate, self-made circuit diagram

“When assembling and installing the new cable harness, however, you shouldn’t always slavishly stick to the original,” advises Peter. “For example, if this could quickly lead to damage again because the manufacturers once chose – often for cost reasons – too tight radii, cables that are too short or cables to be laid over sharp-edged parts.” Then it is better to improve on your own. But don’t forget to describe the serial installation in the restoration report in such a way that it can be reconstructed at any time! Only in the case of museum or collector vehicles that are not driven at all or seldom is it possible to route the cables in the original way despite such inadequacies.

“As with the standard cable harness, individual cables are always combined in cable bundles when re-manufacturing,” explains Peter. “In addition to the original fabric hoses, the so-called shrink tubing has particularly proven its worth.” It is pulled over the respective cable strands and gently heated with an industrial blower or gas burner. The plastic contracts and bundles the cables into compact, flexible strands that are very resistant and waterproof. In places where the wiring harness is exposed to high mechanical loads, a second protective layer can also be placed around the wiring harness with electrician’s insulation tape. The insulating tape is also useful wherever pulling the cables into heat-shrink tubing is not possible or makes no sense. Fabric tape can also be wrapped around heat-shrink tubing without any problems. It can easily be used to restore the original look of the cable harness. Shrink tubing is best bought by the meter in various diameters. Depending on the application, they are available in different thicknesses and different degrees of shrinkage.

Use originals whenever possible for classics

The original straps, metal ties or grommets should be used to attach the wiring harness to the motorcycle, where possible and sensible. The practical plastic cable ties are also a good alternative. For reasons of originality, they are only used on many older classics where they are not immediately recognizable. “When choosing cable ties, which are supplied in different lengths, widths and colors, I advise you to choose the widths possible. With narrow versions there is a risk of damaging the insulation or the shrink tubing due to vibrations. ”Rubber ring inserts are also recommended for cable routing through fenders or lamp pots, which prevent the cables from chafing on their sharp edges.

“There are two ways to go with the connectors,” explains Peter. “For reasons of authenticity, many will initially reinstall the original plugs if possible. Nevertheless, in terms of reliability, it makes sense to use modern and particularly well-sealed plug connections, especially in the splash water area. ”As long as the changes are noted in the restoration report and the original connector can easily be exchanged, such a modification of the wiring harness is one of the most sensible Improvements.

Solder or crimp?

One of the most common questions when recreating a wiring harness is: soldering or crimping? Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages. Soldered cable connections on plugs tend to oxidize over time due to the acid contained in the solder, which negatively affects the flow of current. The cables can also break at the transition between the soldering point and the cable.

In the case of crimped (squeezed) connections, on the other hand, the cables can sometimes become loose. This has to do with a special property of the metal, especially with copper strands. “Over time, they tend to ‘run away’ to avoid the squeezing pressure,” says Peter, who has known the problem for a long time. “The result is loose cable connections that only have poor contact.” For the same reason, cable end sleeves must always be pulled over the stranded wire, even with screwed connections. They prevent the fine wires of the braid from being able to evade the screw pressure. If you are unsure about the more suitable connection method, you should use the original wiring harness to be replaced as an example. If soldering or crimping has proven itself here, the respective method can also be used again.

Electrician’s gloves are highly recommended

Important: Always think about your own safety when working on the wiring harness! The most important measure is to disconnect and, if necessary, remove the battery so that all work on the cables, plugs and consumers is free of voltage. If a single consumer or switch has to be connected to the battery for test purposes, a fuse should always be interposed. This prevents the newly laid cable harness from immediately dissolving “into smoke” in the event of a short circuit. “Electrician’s gloves are also highly recommended,” advises Peter. “They not only protect the fingers from sharp cable ends, but also prevent body fat or sweat from being transferred to the plug-in contacts.” Sweat in particular leads to corrosion, which can lead to contact problems in the medium term.

The right tool is also crucial for working on the electrical system. Only electrician’s tools may be used on live cables. It can be recognized by the DIN marking EN IEC 60900: 2004, which is suitable for live work. All other tools with such imaginative names as “electrician’s screwdriver”, “1000 volts” or “insulated blade” can safely remain on the hardware store shelf, as these names say nothing about the quality of the insulation. On the contrary, such designations are actually wrong and therefore not actually permissible!

If you follow Peter’s recommendations and don’t put yourself under time pressure, but instead acquire the necessary knowledge and proceed systematically step by step at work, you will ultimately find that the repair or even the reproduction of a cable harness is really no rocket science.

Guide values for cable cross-sections

MOTORCYCLE

The following cable cross-sections must not be undercut under any circumstances, in order to prevent the cables from burning through under load.

These rules of thumb apply:

The continuous load should not exceed a maximum of 5 amperes per mm2.
For short-term loads, a maximum of 10 amps may flow per mm2.

Principles when working on the electrical system

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Marcel Schoch

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Always disconnect the negative pole of the battery when working on the electrical system.
Anyone who installs electrical accessories such as heated grips on their motorcycle themselves must secure them with their own fuse. The fuse size must be adapted to the line cross-section and the currents flowing. Do not forget to label or label the fuses. These changes must also be added to the vehicle wiring diagram. This saves a lot of searching for later repairs.
The standard cables and fuses are precisely matched to the flowing currents and have only limited reserves. If additional consumers are connected to this, cables and fuses usually have to be replaced with more resilient ones.
If possible, all cables should be bundled into cable harnesses and only then attached. Only flexible lines are to be used.

Correct handling of the wiring harness

Marcel Schoch

41 pictures

Pictures: Repair and reproduce wiring harness

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Protect all plug contacts from splashing water. Additionally seal all plug connections with elastic silicone sealant. It reliably prevents water from entering the connector.
Never touch the contacts directly with your fingers. Sweat contains acid that can corrode the contact surfaces.
Avoid opening and closing plug contacts frequently. On the one hand, the contact pressure suffers, on the other hand, material is scraped off the contact surfaces. Even good plug connections should not be opened and closed more than ten times or so. If the pressure on the contacts is too low, one tries to carefully bend the contact with a small pair of pliers or a small screwdriver. However, this measure is to be understood as a stopgap measure. Better: Replacing the plug with a new, high-quality one.
Regularly check the fastenings of the wiring harness on the motorcycle. Defective fastenings should be replaced immediately to avoid damage to the insulation or loose plug contacts.
Check the entire wiring harness for damage of any kind at least once a year.

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Tips for screwdrivers Repair and reproduce wiring harness

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Tips for screwdrivers Repair and reproduce wiring harness