Table of contents

• With the motorcycle on Heligoland A crazy idea
• First pushed MOTORCYCLE comparison test
• That “Biker’s Inn” in Ramsloh
• “The last pub before New York”
• “Shit sat nav – just turned wrong in Cuxhaven”
• Heligoland’s fauna – original and fake
• Info

Dentges

30th pictures

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Information: At www.helgoland.de there is a great Helgoland catalog.

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Heligoland’s mayor Jorg Singer (right) takes the keys from the MOTORRAD troop.

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The term “ship equipment” is interpreted very generously in Heligoland. Duty free!

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Wolfgang and Jurgen (left) take care of the island. If necessary also with motorcycles.

Dentges

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Rarely here: pushed 125cc in Heligoland’s pulsating main shopping street Lung Wai.

Herder

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Dream bikes for boys from Heligoland: Malte, Paul, Louis and Tomke – all 12.

Dentges

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The three-kilometer-long cliff path repeatedly confronts man and machine with almost insurmountable tasks. Oncoming pedestrians, for example. But MOTORRAD managed that too.

Dentges

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Lange Anna, Heligoland’s 47 meter high landmark.

Breakable

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Original northern gannet …

fact

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… and forgery.

Blacksmith

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Original gray seal …

dpa

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… and forgery.

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Helgoland: Landkreis Pinneberg, area: 1.0 km² + 0.7 km² of the neighboring island of Dune, population: 1500, special feature: duty-free and VAT-free.

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Travel time (Helgoland): 2 days …

Dentges

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There is nothing to get excited about. We stay on the roads, the engines stay off.

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Captain Horst Brey fights with five knots against six winds. And wins.

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Paragraph 50 of the road traffic regulations is clear: “On the island of Helgoland, motor vehicle traffic and cycling are prohibited.”? …

Dentges

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… A crazy idea.

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The Hummling, which is up to 73 meters high, separates the wheat from the chaff.

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Warning: The products of this company can cause wild creativity.

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The Clemenswerth hunting lodge proves that the Emsland was not a poor house for everyone in the past.

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Peat is mined north of the coastal canal and driven off-road.

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The skyline of Bremerhaven is impressive. and Bremen 60 kilometers away.

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In the North Sea resort of Tossens: a must for lovers of neat maritime kitsch.

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Meeting point at Kaiserhafen in Bremerhaven: almost certainly the last pub before New York.

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Five men are waiting for delicious matjes with fried potatoes. And someone has to take pictures.

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An unwanted opportunity to think about breakfast again.

Herder

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Pouring rain during loading in Cuxhaven. Two containers for five 125cc. And of course a lot of lashing straps.

Herder

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The MS “Helgoland”, built in 1964, reaches the inland port of Helgoland after five and a half hours with the last rifle light.

Breakable

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… Pushed distance: 3.8 kilometers.

to travel

With the motorcycle on Heligoland

With the motorcycle on Heligoland
A crazy idea

Paragraph 50 of the road traffic regulations is clear: “On the island of Helgoland, motor vehicle traffic and cycling are prohibited.” So what? A crazy idea.

Klaus Herder

07/28/2014

The ancient Roshe is to blame. The fine stuff from Haselunne’s oldest grain distillery was actually only intended as a distributor. But now we’ve been sitting a little longer in the “C’est la vie”, Haselunne’s leading “Bistro Cafe”. One 38 percent follows the next, and the day-to-day planning of a normal 125 comparative test becomes a crazy idea. “Where are we going tomorrow?” – “To Cuxhaven.” – “And then?” – “Well, somehow back again.” – “And why not further?” – “Because after Cuxhaven only Helgoland comes.” – “Great, let’s go to Heligoland, too!” Two laps of Rosche Uralter later, four MOTORRAD editors, a MOTORRAD logistician and an unwilling MOTORRAD student assistant agreed: “Yeah, we’ll do the thing on Helgoland!”

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A crazy idea

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Germany’s only offshore island is not necessarily one of the hottest motorcycle hotspots. Which could have something to do with the fact that Paragraph 50 of the Highway Code has banned all motor vehicle traffic on the island since 1970. For good reason: The island, which is only one square kilometer in size, simply has far too little space to be able to expect the 1500 islanders and their guests to have vehicles that travel much faster than walking pace.

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Aprilia RS4 125, Honda CBF 125, KTM 125 Duke, Yamaha MT-125 and YZF-R 125

125cc in comparison test

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First pushed MOTORCYCLE comparison test

The Rosche victims also like the idea of ​​extending the comparison test on Heligoland the morning after. You can try it – let’s call the mayor. Bingo! Mayor Jorg Singer (48) has absolutely nothing against it: “You are welcome to come here. But of course you are not allowed to drive – I will take the keys from you as a precaution. ”No problem, then there is the first pushed comparative test in MOTORCYCLE history. He also has a tip on how we can get our five small calibers to the island: “Try it at Karl Meyer Inselentsorgung GmbH. Not only do they dispose of things, they also take care of us and maybe they can take you with them. ”Half an hour and three phone calls later that would also be resolved. Meyer authorized officer Jurgen Jagdhuber (46 and Harley driver on the mainland) reserved two containers for us and asked us to arrive in Cuxhaven on time for loading 24 hours later. What was a real crazy idea one night ago is slowly picking up speed.

So we have a day to get with motor power from Haselunne in Emsland to Cuxhaven, around 220 kilometers away on the North Sea. Sounds feasible, but it turns out to be not that easy when saddling the eight-liter hump. Because the “grain and Hanseatic town” Haselunne, with almost 13,000 inhabitants, holds on to how charming the picturesque old town is. And besides that, the little town, somewhat disrespectfully dubbed “Fuselunne” by people who blaspheme, has, in addition to its historical building structure, something to offer that will make friends of spirituous beverages open: a centuries-old schnapps distilling tradition that is still upheld today. As part of measures to maintain a driver’s license, however, we refrain from tasting at Berentzen, Heydt and Rosche (we already had that yesterday …) and leave Haselunne heading north.

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That “Biker’s Inn” in Ramsloh

Just 20 kilometers later, the 125cc singles have another break. On the eastern outskirts of Sogel, the Clemenswerth hunting lodge proves that even in the middle of the Emsland, which was once considered the “poor house of Germany”, baroque splendor could arise. The main castle and eight surrounding pavilions impressively show what princes have started with too much money and time, while the subjects were allowed to hunch their backs while mining peat in the surrounding moors. Sogel and Clemenswerth Castle are located on the southern edge of the Hummling, a Geestrucken, which, at up to 73 meters above sea level, does not place any increased demands on the oxygen supply, but in our 125s it separates the sausage chaff from the wheat that has passed through – the test field is very stretching apart.

Which does not stay that way for long, because when the Hummling, which slopes steeply on the northern edge – at least for northern German standards – reveals the view of the moor areas around Sater Ems and Leda, a colleague from Papenburg (name known to the editors) overwhelmed with native feelings. He lets himself be carried away to an abrupt stop and the magic words “Look, over there on the horizon – the roofs of the Meyer shipyard!”. We have to disappoint him bitterly, because this time our tour does not take us through Papenburg (which is well worth seeing). After a photo stop in the peat mining area north of the coastal canal, our next destination is Saterland. The smallest recognized language minority in Germany lives in the municipality, which has around 13,000 inhabitants. The Sater Frisians, who live on a sand island in the middle of moors, speak – surprise – Sater Frisian, which does not necessarily catch the ear of the traveler, but immediately catches the eye: the place-name signs are bilingual. Fortunately, our lunch order in the nicely made “Biker’s Inn” in Ramsloh is completely in High German.

“The last pub before New York”

Via Westerstede, the “rhododendron town in the Ammerland” with lots of tree nurseries, it goes through Varel (“the town between forest and sea”) to the eastern bank of the Jadebusen. On the right stately individual farmsteads defy the wind; the dike on the left ensures that Blanke Hans stays outside. By far the highest elevation in the area can be climbed every few kilometers with an official motorized vehicle to get even more fresh air and a view of Wilhelmshaven opposite and the still rather under-employed JadeWeserPort container terminal. We continue north until a “Frisian department store” on the Butjadingen peninsula in the North Sea resort of Tossens gives us maritime overkill: This is how the southern German tourist imagines life on the coast – wonderfully kitschy. And also with an impressive selection of teas. We turn hard to starboard and reach the Weser ferry in Nordenham’s northern district of Blexen. For a fair 3.90 euros per man and machine, the 59 meter long “Bremerhaven” takes us to the other side of the Weser.

The twelve-minute crossing is very impressive, because whoever thought that Bremerhaven was just the small port of the large (and at least 60 kilometers away) Hanseatic city of Bremen is mightily mistaken: The skyline is impressive, and the subsequent tour through the port area makes it clear that you need a lot of space to treat more than two million vehicles per year and thus to be the most important vehicle transshipment point in Europe. In addition to lots of new cars, there are also some old-timer treasures to be discovered behind the high fences: DeLorean gullwing in a double pack or a full dozen shiny silver Airstream caravans. The highlight in the spacious port area is, of course, the “meeting point Kaiserhafen”, which it says is “the last bar before New York”. For us, the very quaint restaurant, visited by many locals, is after all the last supply station before Cuxhaven and a real recommendation when it comes to matjes with fried potatoes. We enjoy the remaining 40 kilometers to Cuxhaven in the warm summer evening light on the westernmost of all country roads leading through the Wursten region. Off to the hotel, one or two quick welcome pils and then another ten hours until our Heligoland trip really begins.

Dentges

The three-kilometer-long cliff path repeatedly confronts man and machine with almost insurmountable tasks. Oncoming pedestrians, for example. But MOTORRAD managed that too.

Markus won. Or lost – that depends on whether you see a rocky sea voyage as a maritime pleasure or as an unwanted opportunity to think about breakfast again. Markus can / must ride on the MS “Helgoland”, the small freighter that, in addition to alcohol, other food and building materials, will also bring our 125cc to the island of the same name around 65 kilometers away in five to eight hours. Captain Horst Brey (64) and his two Filipino deckhands Billy and Alex ensure twice a week that up to 400 tons of cargo are brought to the island and, if necessary, back again. The rest of the MOTORRAD testers will be taken by the MS “Atlantis”, a classic seaside resort ship that covers the route in just under two and a half hours and can accommodate up to 1000 passengers.

Our four-man vanguard – we left the helpless student assistant Franz lonely in Cuxhaven – uses the time advantage to explore a suitable circuit on the Unterland and Oberland for the pushed comparison test. What is not overly complicated: Heligoland is wonderfully clear. The approximately three kilometer long cliff path on the Oberland is set. Finally we want to go to Long Anna, the 47 meter high, free-standing rock and landmark at the northwestern end of the island. Of course, the start of the tour must be the jetty in front of the lowlands. The Borteboats also arrive there. These are the ten-meter-long and three-meter-wide wooden boats that bring visitors to the island from the ships lying in the roadstead. The “Lung Wai”, the main shopping street in the lowlands, is of course also set.

“Shit sat nav – just turned wrong in Cuxhaven”

Shortly before 10 p.m. and with the last daylight, the MS “Helgoland” arrives in the inland port. Our colleague no longer looks very fresh, but gets a decent assessment from Captain Horst: “Has held up very bravely.” Our motorcycles can only be unloaded from three o’clock in the morning at the earliest. Not for the bar, however, and so it happens that Heligoland’s first motorcycle get-together is established in the legendary “Cohibar” in Lung Wai. The supplier and supplier Jurgen has brought along a few (on the mainland) motorcycle-riding colleagues, our captain of trust also drops in for a nightcap, and even Markus is receptive again – a very good sign.

The next morning there are two blue containers on the pier in front of the customs office, and only now do we really realize what we have done: Five motorbikes are waiting to be pushed around the island. Before that, however, Mayor Singer is waiting for us. As agreed, we hand him the ignition key and make a big promise not to do any nonsense. Well, and then it actually starts. The day guests who come in from twelve o’clock are offered the unique spectacle of five men pushing five motorbikes around and over Heligoland. The landing of a space shuttle on Potsdamer Platz would probably hardly be noticed anymore. The reactions of the audience are almost without exception positive. When asked why, at some point our answer is only: “Shit sat nav – just turned the wrong way in Cuxhaven.” You can tell that a few people affected by the profession would like to get upset. But there is nothing to be excited about: we stay on the roads, the engines stay off, and of course the freighter would have driven without us.

When the last day guests left the island at 5 p.m. and we finished the first MOTORCYCLE comparative test drenched in sweat, we finally knew for ourselves what the campaign achieved besides the realization of a crazy idea: We have become Helgoland fans! Air, light, all of nature – simply wonderful. In addition, lots of nice people and, from late afternoon onwards, slow motion and calm that guarantee relaxation. Even without motorcycles.

Heligoland’s fauna – original and fake

Blacksmith

Original gray seals.

Watch out, trap!

Helgoland offers a fauna that is unique in Germany. Since 1991 the northern gannet has been one of them – with a wingspan of 1.75 meters, it is the largest seabird in the North Atlantic. In 1993 only two breeding pairs nested here, today the colony already includes around 1200 of the elegant birds that hunt for fish while diving. Seal populations have also only existed on the offshore island of “Dune” for around 20 years: around 400 seals and 600 gray seals come ashore here. Around 5000 pairs of birds breed on the Heligoland bird cliffs in spring and summer, including guillemots, razorbills, fulmars and kittiwakes.

Info

Breakable

Travel time (Helgoland): 2 days, pushed distance: 3.8 kilometers.

Getting there: In the main season (April to October), Helgoland is called at by conventional sea-port ships from Wilhelmshaven, Bremerhaven, Cuxhaven and Busum (two connections). The ships anchor in the roadstead in front of the island, and the passengers are disembarked by boat. The “Halunder Jet” catamaran, which runs from Hamburg via Wedel and Cuxhaven, plows through the North Sea at almost 70 km / h and docks directly in the southern harbor (information www.helgoline.de) offers a particularly fast connection. In the low season from November to March there is a daily boat connection from Cuxhaven (except on Sundays). There are daily flights to the island from Bremerhaven and Busum all year round. Anyone who wants to bring larger items (for example motorcycles) to Heligoland is in good hands with Karl Meyer Inselentsorgung GmbH. In addition to the MS “Helgoland”, the MS “Bjorn M.” also calls at the island regularly. Transporting a container (maximum of three motorcycles) there and back costs around 800 euros (info: Tel. 04725/417, www.karl-meyer.de).

Traffic: The aforementioned § 50 of the StVO prohibits vehicle and bicycle traffic on Heligoland. There are a few exceptions, however: Fire and rescue services are allowed to use diesels, and tractors are available for transporting very large loads. The daily supply and disposal business is carried out by over 110 electric carts, which are officially allowed to run at a maximum of 10 km / h, but are usually faster in practice. Bicycles are prohibited, but there is an exception for local children up to the age of six. The up to 14-year-olds are allowed to ride their bikes to school in the winter months. The scooter, which is also used by adults, has established itself as a year-round alternative to the bicycle. On October 18, 2014 there will even be a scooter marathon on the island (info: www.helgolaender-botschaft.de).

Shopping: There are no customs duties or VAT when shopping on the island. Cigarettes and schnapps are significantly cheaper than on the mainland, and you can save 20 percent and more on jewelry and watches. Of course, there are allowances: per person (aged 17 and over) 200 cigarettes, one liter of alcohol (over 22 percent by volume) and souvenirs up to a maximum of 430 euros. Helgoland is a shoppers’ paradise especially for whiskey lovers – the selection is gigantic.

Stay: A day on Heligoland is far too little, you should definitely plan at least one overnight stay, because Heligoland only shows its true character when the day guests have left the island. There are around 2,600 guest beds. Private rooms are available from 25 euros, hotel accommodation costs from 50 euros. There are two bungalow villages on the neighboring island of Dune, and there is also a campsite there.

Information: There is a great Helgoland catalog at www.helgoland.de.

Breakable

Heligoland.

Heligoland

district: Pinneberg

surface: 1.0 km² + 0.7 km² of the neighboring island of Dune

population: 1500

Specialty: duty and VAT free

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