Along the Weser

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Along the Weser
Jo Deleker

to travel

Along the Weser

Along the Weser
At that time like today

A trip along the Weser. From Hannoversch Munden in the Weser Uplands to the North Sea; with a 141 year old travelogue in my luggage.


“There is a stretch of land between the Harze and Westphalen in the middle of the Reich, but almost unknown and untouched by the large flow of traffic. It is the Weserthal that is waiting to be discovered. “

My imagination begins to rotate – the area to the right and left of the Weser as a white spot on the map, so to speak? And the river as unknown as the Nile and the Amazon? Hard to believe. I would have loved to have accompanied Robert Geissler, the author of these lines, in 1863 during his trip on a steamship from Munden to Bremerhaven. After all, he recorded his impressions in his book “The Weser”, which was published in the same year. A copy of this old rind goes into my tank bag, and I’m already on a voyage of discovery in the saddle of my old XT 500. Let’s see what has changed in 141 years.

In Munden, where the Fulda and Werra merge to form the Weser, at first glance a lot seems to have stayed the same. Around 450 half-timbered houses, one skewer than the other, take you back to the Middle Ages. Somewhere in the shadow of the gable I discover a wooden figure – the legendary Doctor Eisenbart, who 280 years ago was one of the most famous of his guild, although he went down in history more as a quack than a doctor. His motto: “The world wants to be cheated, so be it.” Even Robert Geissler immortalized this miracle healer in his work: A patient claims that he was seized by the werewolf and that he has been paralyzed since then. For Eisenbart, a clear matter: “Was it during the full moon when the werewolf grabbed you?” “Yes, it was full moon.” “Was it in spring?” “In autumn, doctor.” “And you certainly know that you Werewolf packed in your sleep? ”“ Yes, of course. He squeezed my bones and since then I’ve had a crack in my left side. ”“ Well, two elements help, fire and water, and a herb from a bush that the werewolf fertilized with blood. Hang this herb in a pot of water without looking at it, light a fire under it until it boils, drink it up, and then go to bed. But nobody says it. “What Eisenbart gave the patient was lilac tea. He was rewarded with two thalers.

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Along the Weser

Jo Deleker

Country life in the middle of the old town of Hannoversch Munden

Enough of the stories, now it is time to follow the Weser to the North Sea, because a passage in the book has completely aroused my curiosity: “Whether it would be a distant valley in Asia, what you are walking, or a river basin from the rocky west of America , it would be pretty much the same as here in the Weserthal. ”
The Weser valley in direct comparison with Asian or American landscapes – how could I have missed that to this day? I quickly set my sights on the ridges of Reinhards- and Bramwald, first of all let the XT chug comfortably down the river. Here and there black and white half-timbered houses. A stork stalks through the wet meadows.

The small street adapts to the relaxed atmosphere, there is no need to cause excitement with curves. But now I would like a little more incline. So I turn off in Hemeln, follow the route that leads surprisingly steep uphill in the direction of Gottingen. A direct hit. Two, three hairpin bends and dozens of bends circle through the dense forest. Not bad for the beginning, especially since the route next door leads just as wildly back down to the river. Which I immediately cross by ferry, because on the other side it’s straight up again. Narrow, bumpy paths run through an ancient forest, I get to the German Fairy Tale Route and promptly to Sababurg. Or better: the Brothers Grimm’s Sleeping Beauty Castle. A really enchanted place in the middle of an animal park that is over 400 years old, in which even bison cavort.

Along the Weser (2)

Along the Weser

Jo Deleker

Allee near Hannoversch Munden – one of many along the Weser.

Shortly afterwards the route meanders downhill to the Weser, and I get to Bad Karlshafen. It was from here that Landgrave Carl wanted to dig a navigable canal to Kassel about 300 years ago in order to outsmart the greedy customs officers in Munden. However, the ambitious project did not turn out to be much: Carl’s Canal ends just behind the city, and the harbor basin has never seen a real ship.

A few kilometers further I cross the Weser again on an ancient ferry, which, from today’s perspective, is somehow years ahead of its modern sisters: It works entirely without engine power. Hanging on a rope at an angle to the current, it moves solely through the force of the water, and you can reach the opposite bank of the river completely silently. brilliant.

There I discover a sunny meadow, perfect for a break. A look at my travel guide is long overdue anyway. ?? The most blissful river glory lies at my feet. Beeches and oaks still in their summer clothes, but the harvest blessing of the year has already been piled up in shiny gold fins. The fruit trees threaten to collapse, and the stream, flirting with shoreline images, rolls along as the most beautiful ornament. A wagon rattles along the riverside path. ??

Along the Weser

Jo Deleker

No, that is not the Weser, but it is also on the route.

The wagons have mutated into trucks, but otherwise little has apparently changed. An excursion steamer paints symmetrical wave patterns on the smooth water. It reminds me of the ultimate tip from a children’s game that involved the longest word: Oberweserdampfschifffahrtsgesellschaftskapitan.
The thermometer has now climbed to over 30 degrees. Too hot for me to be tempted by the admittedly beautiful half-timbered towns of Hoxter and Holzminden. Better to drive and enjoy the at least slightly cooling wind. With every gain in altitude ?? I treat myself to a detour to the Solling ?? the forest air becomes fresher. After all, shortly before Dassel the road reaches a height of almost 500 meters. To my great surprise, I discover a gravel forest path which, for once, is not closed. I’m curious what to expect, dust through a dense spruce forest. Eight wild boars suddenly cross the slope far in front of me. I could go on like this for hours, but unfortunately the next tar road is not long in coming.

Later I get back to the Weser just before Bodenwerder. Instead of driving further north, I’m aiming for the most famous motorcycle meeting place in this region, the Koterberg. In the middle of the week it’s quiet here ?? besides me, only a handful of other bikers have found their way here. Regulars, as I learn. On the weekends, they say, there is of course a lot more going on. The routes around the almost 500 meter high mountain are also a dream for every motorcycle fan. For real. One coffee later, the XT stomps on and off again. And we stroll carefree there ?? the roads are practically ours alone. The boys were right ?? Even the short stretch between Brevorde and Ottenstein turns out to be an absolute highlight: great serpentines (better than some hairpin bends in the Alps!) and a brilliant view of the Weser.

Along the Weser (information)

Those who follow the Weser experience Germany from its calm side? and will be amazed at how diverse the individual regions are.

getting there
Hannoversch Munden at the confluence of the Werra and Fulda rivers can be reached from the south or north via the A 7. From the west, the A 44 passes here.

From a simple campsite from seven euros per night and person to a five-star hotel, everything is available. By far the largest offer, on the other hand, is provided by private pensions and inns. Outside the high season (school holidays) the spontaneous search for a room is not a problem. In addition, almost every place has its own tourist office, which provides information and usually also has a website. If you are out and about in the Weserberg and are looking for a place to stay for the night, you should aim for the »Villa Lowenherz« in Lauenforde (near Bad Karlshafen), Germany’s only hotel that only accommodates motorcyclists. During the week from 15 euros per night including breakfast are to be paid, on the weekends two nights are compulsory, which cost from 45 euros including breakfast and dinner per person. Info: Telephone 05273/7567; Internet:

Worth seeing
The confluence of the Fulda and Werra rivers, which form the Weser from here, are worth a look in the lovely Hannoversch Munden. The half-timbered towns of Hoxter, Holzminden and Hameln are also great places to take a break. Further highlights: the Porta Westfalica near Rinteln with the huge Kaiser Wilhelm monument, the eerily beautiful Teufelsmoor around the picture-book farming village of Fischerhude and the artists’ village of Worpswede and finally the shipping museum in Bremerhaven. And if you are already there, you should think about a trip to Helgoland (only possible in summer).

The HB-Bildatlas »Weserbergland« is no longer completely hot off the press, but still offers a very good introduction to this region;, for 8.50 euros. The northern area is covered by “Elbe, Weser, North Sea Coast” from the same publisher. The travel description “The Weser” by Robert Geibler from 1863 mentioned in the text is of course no longer available in bookshops. If you are still interested, you have to? how the author of this story ??? search in the nearest university library. If the book is not on the shelves there, it can at least be ordered via interlibrary loan. The recommended map is the German General Map, large sheets 1 and 3, on a scale of 1: 200,000. The current MOTORRAD tour planner has proven to be ideal for planning a tour (available on CD or DVD). To order for 39.95 euros by calling 0711 / 182-2442.

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