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Guide: Stand damage and what it costs
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Stand damage and what it costs
Follow-up costs due to damage to the booth quickly turn a used bargain into a money grab. An overview shows what to expect.
Thorsten Dentges
05/01/2010
Exhaust system:
While rust film on the bends is usually only visually disruptive, bulges along the baffle plates are evidence of severe corrosion damage. If a knocking test also reveals rattling noises, the silencer can hardly be saved. A retrofit damper with an operating permit costs between 200 and over 1000 euros, depending on the model.
Battery and electrics:
If the battery was not stored in a dry and cool place during the winter break or when it was not used for a longer period of time (ideal: on the freshness device), there is a high risk that the battery will have to be replaced. A new quality battery costs between 40 and 120 euros. Brittle cables, oxidized plug connections and porous insulation also often cause problems. Although they are inexpensive to replace, the search for the electrical worm can cost time and nerves.
Brakes:
Very bad: heavily rusted brake discs, stuck pistons, all rubber parts and seals hardened and the calipers corroded. In such a case, the brake is ready for scrap. Sometimes a repair kit can save, including wages and costs of around 100 euros per brake. The replacement of old brake fluid with fresh one is less dramatic (workshop: around 50 euros; do it yourself: fluid for a few euros and an hour of work). Brake fluid should always be changed every two years.
Spring elements:
Even if the metal surfaces on the fork and suspension leg (s) look great, hidden damage to the stand can tear a hole in your wallet. For example, when the seals are brittle and oil leaks. Replacing fork seals is a challenge for hobby screwdrivers, but it is feasible. For professionals, repairs can easily cost over 150 euros. Damage to original struts that cannot be dismantled usually require the purchase of a retrofit part (several hundred euros expensive depending on the model).
Rubber and plastics:
When standing outside for longer periods of time, the UV radiation and the ozone cause rubber and plastic parts to become brittle in a hurry. While a faded fitting is only considered an annoying blemish (replacement can be terribly expensive depending on the model), porous brake lines and intake manifolds must be replaced immediately. If the engine draws air due to cracks in the nozzle and the mixture becomes lean, there is a risk of engine damage. With tires you should pay attention to the identifier. Rule of thumb: The tires should not be more than six years old and free of fine cracks (signs of ozone breakdown) in the sidewall.
Frame / attachments:
If the rust is too deep, a surface treatment, for example with polishing agents such as Autosol or Nevr-Dull, is not enough. When inspecting the machine, you should therefore make the effort to look for corrosion damage even in inaccessible places such as under the tank. While a rusty lamp holder can be replaced relatively easily with an inexpensive second-hand spare part, the renovation of a heavily corroded frame is a major project and is only worthwhile for collector’s items.
Tank:
Do not be blinded by the good general condition of the offered machine. Damage to the tank is not uncommon even with motorcycles that are just a few years old. Strong temperature fluctuations lead to the formation of condensation, which in turn can cause a sheet steel tank to bloom from the inside – the nasty rust inside (flashlight test!) Not only looks ugly, particles and crumbs also clog the holes and prevent the correct flow of fuel. A professional renovation costs between 50 and 200 euros, depending on the effort. A new tank is more expensive, even as a well-preserved used part.
Carburetor:
Even shorter periods of time such as the winter break can damage the carburetors. Deposits are the most common annoyance if the (previous) owner has not emptied the chambers before permanent parking (actually no effort: close the fuel tap, run dry). An ultrasonic bath from the carburetor, dismantled into individual parts by hand, costs around 30 euros, a complete service including adjustment work between 70 and 150 euros. In the case of longer idle times, porous carburetor membranes often have to be replaced. The prices for the spare parts vary greatly depending on the model: from 25 to 150 euros per carburetor.
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