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Germany: Moselle
Germany: Moselle
Color frenzy
A tour along the Moselle thrives on its infidelities. The romantic valley offers culture and history, the numerous side valleys the best routes for motorcycling.
Joachim Deleker
05/12/2006
To be in the right place at the right time – in autumn everything is a question of perfect timing. Sounds easy, but it’s not. At least not for the last outdoor activities of the year. Because then there is a third component – the right weather. Poking through the Moselle valley in the cold November fog is doable, but not very satisfying. Because only the autumn sun turns such a tour into a mega-experience. If everything fits together – time, place and light – late autumn days in some places in Germany offer real cinema at its best.
Today is such a day! With an unbelievable 21 degrees and a sparkling blue sky. All senses will have to work again today. Even Voxan, who was actually slumbering back to winter under a warm woolen blanket, cannot be asked twice. After a few bursts of gas, the fat two-cylinder runs smoothly and trumpets its muffled V2 bass in the crystal-clear November air.
Birgit and I leave the Rhine Valley in Koblenz and want to follow the Moselle, which joins the Rhine at the Deutsches Eck, upstream. At first not exactly exciting, because the federal road 416 rolls wide, curve-free and flat through the valley. There is hardly any driving fun. Maximum calm gliding is possible.
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But the Voxan Street Scrambler is not a cruiser, but wants to be moved in a species-appropriate manner every now and then. A look at the map reveals countless possibilities for this. Again and again yellow and white lines curl out of the valley, curve right up into the Eifel or around left onto the plateau of the Hunsruck. In Alken, directly below the two-tower Thurant Castle, the former mountain race track lures you to Nortershausen. 19 curves and hairpin bends wind through the bright yellow vineyards and accompany the total change of program from the idyllic river valley to the bare, windy plateau.
We roll straight for a few kilometers, then it’s at least as entertainingly downhill to Boppard on the Rhine. Barely 15 minutes separate the two rivers here. But the fling to the neighboring river only lasts for a short time. The Voxan is already showing him the taillight and thundering up the next small road and almost parallel to the Alken hill climb back to the Moselle. At Brodenbach, the narrow strip of asphalt ropes down into the valley. This time, however, in such tight turns that the Voxan needs almost the entire steering angle and clearly shows its limits. A nimble single cylinder would feel more comfortable in the switchbacks.
It quickly becomes clear that such affairs are the icing on the cake of a Moselle tour. Because only these little miracles of curves bring the exciting variety, ennoble the tour to a mountain-and-valley ride, to the constant change between romantic valley and challenging mountain routes. So now cruise a bit again, relaxed and straight on to Cochem, the most popular motorcycle meeting point on the Moselle. Fifty bikes are still parked on the market square on this picture-perfect Saturday. There are also busloads of day trippers. The narrow streets of the old town almost overflow, there is little left for Moselle romance. But a cappuccino in the street cafe is still a must. Enjoy the sun, watch the motorbikes and be happy that it is as warm again at the beginning of November.
The Reichsburg, the most beautiful castle on the Moselle, towers high above Cochem. The over 1000 year old complex was destroyed in 1689 by the troops of the French king Louis XIV, but rebuilt as a multi-tower fairytale castle in the 19th century by a Berlin manufacturer. Incidentally, the best view of the historic walls is provided by the B 259, which meanders through the coniferous forest high above Cochem.
Between Cochem and Bernkastel-Kues, the Moselle valley pulls out all the stops, one postcard idyll chases the next. All cliches of German romanticism are fulfilled here. Harmonious landscapes, painted thousands of times and nostalgically transfigured, crammed full of history from two millennia since the Romans left their multiple traces between Trier and Koblenz. Viewed from high up from the edge of the valley, the autumnal scenery looks beautiful. At the same time, however, the places down by the river are overrun by tourists, and on sunny weekends like now, the riverside road often only progresses in stop and go.
In Bruttig-Frankel we have had enough of the crowd and dare to venture into one of the valleys again. Immediately the traffic tends to zero and the Voxan burns uphill through the bends and bends. Maria Engelport – Mittelstrimmig – Liesenich and back down to Beilstein. Constant grin under the helmet. In Beilstein, however, we simply have to park the motorcycle, because the character of the place only becomes apparent when you stroll through the narrow streets. The village is a total work of art, a living open-air museum. Picturesque half-timbered houses crowd close together, prominently overlooked by the Metternich castle ruins. Ornate inscriptions on the framework testify to the godliness of the house owners and the year of construction of the old walls. Geraniums in front of almost every window, grapevines climb the facades. Everywhere people are invited to wine tastings, kitsch and postcards populate the shops. It wouldn’t be surprising if the Japanese or Americans had recreated the 700-year-old place as a prime example of a German village somewhere overseas. Beilstein has what it takes.
Enough culture and history for today, a few nice streets should still be inside. Shortly before Ediger-Eller, verifiably one of the most beautiful places on the Moselle, a narrow path leaves the valley and circles high into the Eifel. He soon dives into the old beech forest. A light wind picks the brown-yellow foliage from the branches and causes the typical autumn leafing, which finally ends as a colorful, soft carpet on the street and is only whirled up again by the blast of air from the Voxan. A risky slide when wet, but when dry it is a child’s pleasure to sweep through the mountains of foliage. And first the scent! The smell of withered leaves and damp earth wafts under the helmet and brings the typically musty autumn breath. The afternoon sun flashes warm and powerful like a stroboscope through the trees.
Grevenich, Urschmitt, Kliding. Villages in which a tourist rarely gets lost. Why should they, after all, they can’t keep up with the famous wine towns anyway. Before the road descends again into the valley to Bremm, we turn onto a field path that ends directly above the Calmont, the steepest vineyard in Europe at 65 degrees and at the same time a starting point for paragliders. Direct hit. We instantly choose this vantage point as the most beautiful on the Moselle. Almost 300 meters below us, the river makes a picturesque 200-degree turn. On the peninsula in the inner curve, the roofless monastery ruin Stuben protrudes from the strictly geometrically laid out vineyards. A coal freighter pushes itself boldly drifting through the bend, making use of almost the entire width of the river and painting long wave patterns on the previously mirror-smooth surface of the water. Two-way traffic would not be a good idea now. The shadows of the setting sun creep over the valley. As beautiful as the days can be at this time of year, they are so short. 5 p.m., high time to look for somewhere to stay for the night. A little later we punch holes in Punderich.
In contrast to many other Moselle locations, Punderich is almost idyllic. The main road leaves the place on the left, and the railroad pushes its way into the mountain to avoid noise. Tourists are rare and prefer to head for Zell or Beilstein. On the old ferry house from 1621, markings with dates provide information about the maximum height of the respective flood. The second-highest is only 13 years ago, 1993. But one calibration line rises above all others by more than a meter, that of February 28, 1784. Marking of a flood catastrophe that was preceded by an extremely severe winter at the time, the Moselle frozen rock-hard. Then suddenly there was a sudden burst of heat with heavy rain, which washed the snow from the slopes and caused the water level to rise rapidly. The ice broke apart, drifted downstream and wedged into huge barriers behind which the water stagnated. Ice floes and water shot over the dams, flooded the villages and tore entire houses with them. Many people drowned. Never again did the Moselle grow beyond itself.
Over night, thick fog has collected in the valley, typical for autumnal inversion weather. “Completely normal,” says our host, “either you wait until eleven o’clock or go up into the mountains.” Waiting is a shame, especially if the sun is really shining in the heights. So we roll to the old car ferry that is supposed to take us to the other side of the river. The ferryman could have sprung from a North Frisian homeland film: gray beard, sailor’s hat, blue-striped shirt. A real captain. He likes the Voxan, but he can hardly believe that it – like the Moselle – comes from France: “As Italian as it looks.”
The short ferry ride is hardly enough to satisfy his curiosity about the Gallic V2. Especially since he also provides us with the best tips in between: “Have you been to Calmont?” Sure. “But you have to see Vierseenplatz near Merl. And the cafe at the Grevenburg ruins. “We’ll try. First, however, we feel our way from the ferry in the thick fog and follow a narrow path through the vineyards, where we may meet a winemaker with a museum-quality Porsche (always in red) or Fendt tractor (always in green) from the 1950s.
In fact, the gray soup is thinning just before we reach the highest point at the Marienburg. Above the clouds of fog, the view is almost limitless, to the east to the Hunsruck, to the north over the Moselle valley near Bullay, which was spared from the fog. Even over the wide loop of the Moselle from Punderich, the white wadding slowly dissolves, revealing the gentle slopes in the intense yellow of the vines. Like almost everywhere along the river, Riesling mostly grows, for which the slate soil is ideal. Nothing works on the Moselle without wine. The grape juice determines the life of the Moselans, shapes culture and landscape. The many creative names are an expression of this culture, regardless of whether Piesporter Goldtropfchen, Zeltinger Himmelreich or Krover Nacktarsch.
It’s noon already and we haven’t come ten kilometers yet! It’s just too beautiful up here at the Marienburg. But now further. Alf-Bad Bertrich, left up to Bonsbeuren and finally down again to Reil. What a street, what an affair! Barely three meters wide, constantly up and down, right and left through bright orange beech forest. Zero traffic, infinitely good to drive. In Reil over the Moselle bridge to Enkirch and straight back up to Starkenburg. The road prances right along the abyss, offering great views of the valley again and again. Carefully, however, because driving and looking can hardly be combined.
A last handful of hairpin bends and then up to the Grevenburg ruins with a 20 percent gradient with the most promising cafe far and wide. The ferryman from Punderich did not promise too much. In front of the meager remains of the castle, which was blown up by the French in 1735, there are a few tables and chairs – wonderful, you can even sit outside. A wonderful place high above the Moselle loop, in which the houses of Traben-Trarbach nestle, embedded in the orange-yellow sea of the vineyards. T-shirt weather, and the sunglasses can be on your nose again. We absorb every ray of sunshine, every bit of warmth that is now available for free.
We actually wanted to go to Trier, but now we can no longer find a reasonable reason why we should do that. “May I have another cappuccino?” The attentive waiter joins our thoughts. Definitely! We are postponing Bernkastel and Trier until next week. Or next year. Because the time to enjoy what may be the last warm November sunshine here and now is just perfect. And correct timing is known to be everything. Especially in autumn.
The Voxan Street Scrambler – The Voxan Street Scrambler
The French manufacturer Voxan is one of the exotic in this country. Three
Models are powered by a water-cooled 1000 cc V2, the
Voxan has developed itself: Street Scrambler, Black Magic and Cafe Racer.
In the € 12,000 Street Scrambler, the four-valve engine has 94 hp
and 90 Nm. The powerful engine shovels plenty in the speed cellar
Power to the rear wheel, does not complain even when the pace is slow. The relaxed, slightly forward-leaning seating position means longer ones
To master routes in the best way.
Compared to the first Voxan scrambler the front wheel shrank from 19 to a sporty 17 inches. Instead, the width of the tires grew to 120/70 at the front and 180/70 at the rear. The Street Scrambler is in its element on good roads with wide curves and can be moved with clean lines. Higher speeds are annoying in the long run due to the lack of wind protection. But the tighter the radius and the worse the asphalt, the less comfortable it is
the French woman. Bumpy curves bring unrest to the chassis, tight ones
Serpentines are hardly playful anymore, although the Voxan
only weighs 210 kilos.
14.5 liters of tank capacity should be enough for extended tours, if it weren’t for the V2’s drinking pleasure. Consumption can only be reduced to less than six liters with an extremely economical driving style; in the winding country roads during the Moselle tour, the Voxan consumed around 6.5 l / 100 km. A traveling Yamaha XT 660 R was satisfied with three liters less. More information about Voxan is available
it is expected to start in January 2007 at www.sidam-sas.com, test the Black Magic in MOTORRAD 10/2005, the first Scrambler model in issue 18/2001.
Info
A tour along the Moselle thrives on its infidelities. The romantic valley offers culture and history, the many sides-
valleys are the best routes for motorcycling.
D arrival
Coming from the north or south, follow the A 61 to Koblenz, where the Moselle flows into the Rhine. If you prefer to start the tour in Trier, coming from the northeast, follow the A 48 to Trier and then the river to Koblenz. The A 6 leads from the southwest,
A 62 and A 1 to Trier.
D travel time
Autumn begins in the heights of the Eifel and Hunsruck as early as mid-October. On the Moselle, on the other hand, it takes two weeks longer for forests and vineyards to reach the peak of their riot of colors. The most colorful days there usually fall in the first week of November.
D accommodation
The places in the Moselle valley live from tourism and accordingly offer rooms to everyone
Category. Even in autumn it can be
Weekends can get surprisingly crowded, so reservations in advance are advisable. The week is around this
Season, however, as good as nothing going on. The easiest way to make room reservations is via the Internet, see below for addresses. Nice campsites there
it theoretically also and often directly on
Flow. Most of them are closed in November or are at most suitable for cold-resistant guests.
D worth seeing
The entire lower course of the Moselle, which rises in the Vosges, forms a series of sights.
Almost every place between Trier and Koblenz
has a historical core of half-timbered houses. The most beautiful are Bernkastel-
Kues, Beilstein, Ediger-Eller and Punderich.
There are also numerous castles and ruins, among which are the castle fortifications
Eltz (www.burg-eltz.de) and the Reichsburg
above Cochem (www.reichsburg-
cochem.de) are particularly impressive.
The numerous wine tastings and wine cellars are worth an evening visit. Or the wine festivals, which usually take place in September and October. But then the places are bursting at the seams.
D literature
The motorcycle guide is recommended
»Mosel« from the Highlights publishing house for eleven euros, the ten detailed tours in the
Describes region. To get in the mood too
The HB-Bildatlas Mosel are suitable for home use
for 8.50 euros or the picture guide “Die Mosel” from Schoning Verlag for 8.90 euros.
The best orientation is provided by the large sheet five of the German general map on a scale of 1: 200000 or sheet 12 of the MOTORRAD general map based on it with its extra information for bikers. The ADAC leisure map “Eifel, Mosel, Hunsruck” is even more detailed at a scale of 1: 100,000.
D Information:
The easiest way to do this is over the Internet. When searching for “Moselle”, Google spits out 187,000 hits. In our opinion, the best tips are available at www.mosel.com, www.
die-mosel.de, www.mosel-reisefuehrer.de
and www.mosella.de.
About the website can not
just get all kinds of information, but also get in touch with the local ones
Establish tourist information or reserve rooms.
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