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• Workshop guide Hoses and clamps
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Workshop guide: hoses and clamps

Workshop guide
Hoses and clamps

To ensure that air, fuel and coolant get exactly where they belong, hoses have to do their job in the best possible way. Perseverance is required, which in turn is part of the range of tasks of the clamps. Read here how the screwdriver handles both parts.

Klaus Herder

10/27/2010

The elementary function that a tank ventilation system that conducts air and a really closed cooling circuit have for the well-being of the engine is only noticeable when the screws are screwed incorrectly. How to avoid mistakes:

Hoses
There are many hoses on motorcycles that are laid in a visible or invisible manner. The most popular is the gasoline hose, followed by coolant hoses and hoses for tank ventilation. There are other hoses between the tank and the engine, such as B. on the intake air pressure sensor or one that connects the radiator nozzle and the coolant expansion tank. Enduros with a carburettor have a few long hoses attached to the carburetor housing to ventilate the float chamber and vent the space above the throttle valve.

• Important: All hoses, regardless of whether they transport gasoline or cooling water or are used for ventilation of the tank, the carburetor and also the engine compartment, must be “round” throughout, so they must not have a kink at any point. This is particularly important for the tank ventilation hoses. These must lead from the bottom of the tank over the engine down into the open air (Fig. A) and must not be in contact with the exhaust pipe or drag on the chain.

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Image A: Lay hoses without kinks, avoid hot components and grinding points.

• Small wire clamps are often found on petrol and ventilation hoses: press both ends together and guide them away from the clamping point, then pull the hose off the socket. The assembly is done in reverse.
• Pulling the hose off the socket: If you want to dismantle a hose and pull on it, it will be lengthened, but it will not slip off the socket for a long time because it is “glued” to it. Therefore, first push the hose off a little with a pair of pliers or a wide screwdriver (Fig. B) and thus loosen it from the seat on the socket, only then can you really pull it off.

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Image B: Loosen stuck hoses a little with a screwdriver before pulling them off.

• Cooling water hoses on old motorcycles are literally “baked up” on their sockets, this is due to the hardened limescale residue (from the “wrong” because lime-containing) cooling water: grab the hose at the connection point by hand and turn it, it cracks easily, then you can get it pull it off.
• And something else important: Please be careful which hose is pushed off which nozzle; because hoses are often of different thicknesses, so that they only fit on the nozzle intended for them. It is best to mark in color with a fiber pen before peeling off.

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Image C: Fuel hose quick coupling: Disconnect by pressing in the latch.

• Petrol hose coupling: Petrol hoses of modern motorcycles, whether with carburettor or injection, are attached to the tank with a quick coupling (Fig. C). With modern quick-release couplings, gasoline does not leak after disconnection, so they lock themselves off. However, you should not rely on this and always place a thick, absorbent cloth underneath when dismantling the tank and when disconnecting the fuel hose coupling.
• Caution: When dismantling and reassembling the tank and assembling fuel hoses DO NOT USE OPEN FIRE, DO NOT SMOKE!
• How to use a quick coupling: To disconnect, push in or pull out the latch (Fig. C / D), then pull off the coupling piece. When assembling, make sure that the coupling piece is pushed all the way together, it must click slightly.

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Image D: Quick-release coupling with which a latch has to be pulled out to disconnect.

• Hose clamps: Hoses are usually secured with so-called “hose clamps” (Fig. E). The screws in the hose clamps with which z. B. Radiator hoses are clamped onto pipe sockets, must not be tightened too much, otherwise the clamp cuts into the radiator hose and it will leak at this point. Clamp screws are tightened by feeling, but there are also regulations for this, e.g. B. in workshop manuals or repair instructions.

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Image E: When replacing clamps, ensure that they are of the correct type, do not over-tighten.

• The standard hose clamps are slightly rounded at the edges so that the cooling water hoses are not cut when tightened. If you can no longer get standard hose clamps for your (old ?!) motorcycle from the brand dealer, you can get some from the radiator manufacturer (yellow pages, telephone directory). He also has new radiator hoses in stock in all possible sizes.

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Image F: Never replace the carburetor clamps with clamps of a different type.

• If for any reason cheap clamps must be used, check that their side edges are sharp or rounded before installing. With sharp edges, there is a risk that the radiator hose will be damaged at the clamping point when tightening, which is not immediately apparent at first glance, but the hose will tear at this point over time and then burst. If you only have hardware store hose clamps on hand, then deburr the edges with emery and “round off” them.
• Clamps: Only special carburetor clamps should be used for all clamping points of the carburettor and throttle valve housing in the rubber intake manifold on the cylinder head (Fig. F). When using water hose clamps or even those from the hardware store, the intake port is squeezed away from the carburetor port when the screw is tightened, and the engine then draws in air.

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