Table of contents

• Change chain set Replace the pinion, toothed wheel and drive chain
• Rivet the chain

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Change chain set

Change chain set
Replace the pinion, toothed wheel and drive chain

Regular chain maintenance can delay the moment of chain change, but at some point it comes: the old chain set is through, a new one needs to be found.

04/11/2012

Chains with clip locks have no place on the motorcycle due to their low resilience, as practical as they may be.

The end of the chain’s life is indicated when the teeth of the sprockets become pointed, the chain at the rearmost point of the sprocket can be raised by more than half a tooth height or the chain tensioner is at the rear end of the scale. Usually sprockets and chain wear out at the same time, which is why you need to change them together.

Combined new and old parts wear out quickly. A well-stocked tool box and some special equipment are required to change the chain and sprockets. Depending on the motorcycle, you need: a socket for the rear axle nut, open-ended spanner for the chain tensioning screws and the lock nuts, a torque wrench up to at least 120 Nm, an Allen key, a socket for the pinion nut with an extension to the torque wrench, a socket for the self-locking collar nuts on the rear sprocket Chain cutting and riveting tool, a medium-sized hammer, a small chisel, cleaning agent (brake cleaner, WD-40), plenty of rags, roller bearing grease for the keyways of the gearbox output shaft. An impact wrench is also helpful to open the pinion nut.

A special tool is required to separate the old chain and rivet the new one. You can also cut the chain at the link plates or rivet heads with an angle grinder. When assembling the new chain, a skilled hand is required to rivet the hammer accurately. The combination tool for separating and riveting is the better choice.

If you clap your hands over your head in view of the following instructions: It’s not for nothing that there are workshops that gladly take on such tasks. And maybe the many steps outlined awaken a little understanding of the costs. Here we go! Unscrew the outer sprocket cover, remove the regulator / rectifier, short gear lever and speed sensor.

Before installing the new chain kit, remove old grease and dirt from otherwise hidden areas.

It is advisable to also unscrew the clutch slave cylinder so that the inner pinion cover can be completely removed without any problems. With the clutch slave cylinder unscrewed, secure the piston with a clamp. Take off the inner pinion cover, pull out the clutch push rod, unscrew the screws of the cover, take off the cover. Open the pinion nut with the hexagon socket and extension. Not try to open the pinion screw with an open-end wrench.

Anything but a rivet: screw links are on par with rivet locks in terms of strength and can be installed without special tools .

You are sure to slip. Lock the rear wheel with the brake. None Put in gear! If the braking force is not sufficient to counter-hold, insert the hammer handle or piece of wood through the wheel and block a spoke against the swing arm. Do not press the hammer handle onto the brake line! It is even easier to open the nut with an impact wrench. Loosen the sprocket securing nuts on the rear wheel and open two turns.

Find the rivet link, attach the chain separator, tighten the threaded bushing, insert the punch, hold the chain separator, tap the punch with a hammer: the bolt is removed. Lift off the chain. Pull off the front chain sprocket, clean the transmission shaft.

Correct riveting: In order to maintain the correct dimension, a distance gauge is helpful, which should be enclosed with the replacement chains.

Lubricate the keyways with grease. Slide on the new pinion with the label facing outwards. Attach washer; Unscrew the cleaned, lightly oiled nut hand-tight. Remove the rear wheel, unscrew the sprocket nuts, remove the old sprocket. Clean and oil the contact surfaces on the chainring carrier and the thread of the stud bolts.

Grease or oil the contact surfaces of the sprocket, attach the sprocket with the label facing outwards, tighten the nuts hand-tight. Screw the chain tensioning adjusting screws very far into the swing arm, install the wheel, push the axle forward as far as it will go. Place a new chain on the sprockets; Grease the rivet link well with chain grease, slide new O- or X-rings onto the bolts. Connect the ends of the chain with the rivet link: the chain must sit securely on the sprockets. Place new O- or X-rings on the protruding bolts of the rivet link, apply the chain link evenly, push on and press on slightly with a chain tool. Insert spacer gauges on both sides of the chain; Press on the chain link.     

Rivet the chain

The chain can be professionally riveted with such a special tool (available from around 100 euros).

Mount the riveting stud in the chain tool. Attach the chain tool and press the link plate with the threaded bushing evenly onto both bolts until it rests on the spacer gauges. Rivet overhangs. Pull out lessons; Check riveting.

Tighten the pinion nut: lock the rear wheel with the brake. If the braking force is not sufficient, insert the hammer handle against a wheel spoke under the swing arm. Tighten the collar nuts of the rear chainring mount. Adjust chain slack. Don’t forget to tighten the rear axle nut.

Screw the removed parts back on. Wipe the grease off the outside of the chain. Equipment tip: Enuma (Tel. 06245/9947910, www.enuma.de) also offers screw links for most common motorcycle chains. They can be installed without special tools, are very reliable and have a long service life. If you want to properly untie and rivet your chains, you should add a chain cutting and riveting tool (from around 100 euros) to your equipment.

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