Posted on 27.04.2021 by admin

Product test: engine oils SAE 10W-40 Motor oils in the test
Motorcycle engine oils put to the test
What’s the difference??
The tasks of engine oil
What is important when it comes to oil?
Castrol Grand Prix S.
Castrol Power 1 4T
Castrol Power 1 Racing
eleven Moto 4 Road
eni i ride
HEM motorcycle oil
JMC engine oil 4T GP
Motul 5000 4T
Motul 300V Factory Line
Performance 4T
Procycle motor oil
Racing Dynamic ViscOil 4T
Rowe Formula 4-T
Shell Advance AX 7
Conclusion
Oleology
Dry sump lubrication
Wet sump lubrication
FAQs about oil

fact

14th pictures

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1/14
Castrol Grand Prix S. MOTORRAD verdict: very good.

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2/14
Castrol Power 1 4T. MOTORRAD verdict: very good.

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3/14
eleven Moto 4 Road. MOTORRAD verdict: very good.

mps photo studio

4/14
Shell Advance AX7. MOTORRAD verdict: good.

mps photo studio

5/14
Rowe Formula 4-T Motor Oil TS-Z. MOTORRAD verdict: good.

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6/14
Racing Dynamic ViscOil 4T. MOTORRAD verdict: very good.

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7/14
Procycle motor oil. MOTORRAD verdict: very good.

mps photo studio

8/14
Performance 4T. MOTORRAD verdict: very good.

mps photo studio

9/14
Motul 300V Factory Line. MOTORRAD verdict: very good.

mps photo studio

10/14
Motul 5000 4T. MOTORRAD verdict: very good.

mps photo studio

11/14
JMC engine oil 4T GP. MOTORRAD verdict: good.

mps photo studio

12/14
HEM motorcycle oil. MOTORRAD verdict: good.

mps photo studio

13/14
eni i ride. MOTORRAD verdict: good.

mps photo studio

14/14
The MOTORRAD test winner: Castrol Power 1 Racing. MOTORRAD verdict: very good.

counselor

technology & future

Product test: engine oil

Product test: engine oils SAE 10W-40
Motor oils in the test

Yes, what now? Mandy (19) wants to buy oil, but she can’t decide. Mineral, partially or fully synthetic? Or maybe the cold-pressed super quality from the deli? Don’t panic, if you pay attention to a few basics, you can hardly buy wrong.

Klaus Herder

04/07/2013

Motorcycle engine oils put to the test

One can make the subject a matter of faith. Some motorcyclists approach the matter with almost missionary zeal when the gasoline (!) Conversation turns to the subject of oil. Then it can only be a very specific brand under all circumstances. And also only fully synthetic, the best is just good enough. At the other end of the faith scale, some swear stone and leg that their engine has achieved a six-figure mileage even with the cheapest car oil from the hardware store and that a liter price of over three euros is a pure waste of money.

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Before getting involved in discussions with such lubricant hardliners, it may help to acquire some basic knowledge and to clear up a few misunderstandings and prejudices. The first question that arises is: what is oil anyway? To put it simply: dead animals. To be more precise: dead microorganisms whose death occurred in prehistoric times. Chemists see things a little easier. For them, oil consists almost exclusively of the elements hydrogen and carbon.

What’s the difference??

In order for the carbon compounds to be turned into motorcycle oil, the crude oil must be broken down, cleaned and further processed in the refinery. Which brings us to the point where we can dispel the first misunderstanding: Even the most fully synthetic of all fully synthetic oils is based on crude oil. And that is like concrete: It depends on what you make of it. If a mineral base oil is refined, it becomes a so-called hydrocrack oil.

For the diverse uses of the oils, the mineral oil companies not only rely on Mother Nature and its hydrocarbon compounds, but also tinker with their own compounds. These substances, tailor-made in terms of their molecular structure, are called synthetic oils. The mixture of synthetically produced oils with mineral base oils results in a semi-synthetic oil. Important to know: All the great terms relating to refined oil (synthetic, fully synthetic, partially synthetic, polysynthetic, synthetic-based, HC synthesis and many more) are neither standardized nor capable of norms, i.e. pure marketing statements. A real indication of the real composition of an oil is not given.

The tasks of engine oil

The tasks of an engine oil are always the same: It has to lubricate, transmit forces, cool and seal. In addition, the oil is supposed to keep the oil-insoluble residues that occur during combustion in suspension until the next oil change. It has to neutralize acids, absorb water and protect against corrosion. It must only age a little, not foam and must remain flowable at all temperatures.

Such a base oil can only do this with the help of additives. These are active ingredients from the chemical kitchen that make up up to 25 percent of highly additive engine oil, consist of around ten to 15 different substances and are combined in tailor-made additive packages. These packages are mostly bought from suppliers; three major US and UK based providers dominate the market. The choice of additive packages is largely responsible for the large price differences. Are you dealing with a well-known phrase “off the shelf”, or has a lot of know-how and time been invested in a new development? These are very crucial questions for the subsequent sales price.

Buy engine oil on markt.motorradonline.de

Motul 5000 4T – Best purchase from MOTORRAD 15/2013

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Best purchase engine oil Castrol Grand Prix S

Top quality at a (Castrol) competitive price

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Herder

FT infrared spectroscopy reveals that “fingerprint” of the oils.

Which brings us to the 14 motorcycle oils for this test. The prices differ very significantly in some cases. The liter price range for the recommended retail prices ranges from 7.39 to 19.95 euros, and in practice even from 5.20 to 19.99 euros. And that under the same basic conditions, which were: Viscosity SAE 10W-40 (this is still the category most frequently recommended by motorcycle manufacturers), API SG or higher, JASO MA or higher. Whether mineral, partially or fully synthetic, MOTORRAD wasn’t interested at all for the reasons mentioned at the beginning.

Mandy (19) and all other oil buyers should also proceed in a similarly systematic manner: The viscosity prescribed by the motorcycle manufacturer is always the first and no alternative selection criterion. Then you should pay attention to the API classification. API stands for the “American Petroleum Institute”, which classifies engine oils according to letter combinations. For gasoline engines, the first is always an S, the following letter should be at least a G. The SG classification was introduced in 1989, in the meantime you have arrived at SN, but this does not necessarily mean that an SG oil for the motorcycle has to be worse than an SN oil.

What is important when it comes to oil?

Herder

The viscometer will determine the viscosity, i.e. the flow behavior of the oils.

It is possible that the oil supplier only gave himself the (expensive) testing effort to “update” his oil. In addition, the API requirements are primarily designed to meet the needs of passenger car engines. However, the API classification does give an initial indication of the oil quality. For motorcyclists, however, the JASO classification (based on the API classification) is even more important. JASO stands for “Japan Automobile Standards Organization”, and even if the name suggests otherwise, it is specifically about the demands of motorcycle engines when JASO MA (or MA1 or MA2) is on the oil can. This ensures that the oil can cope with the oil bath clutches that are common in motorcycle engines. The JASO MA marking is the only existing specification for four-stroke motorcycle engine oils and should be the most important oil purchase criterion after the correct viscosity specification.

The 14 motorcycle oils bought by MOTORRAD all meet the viscosity specifications, and the sulphated ash content, which according to JASO may be a maximum of 1.2 percent by weight, was undercut by all suppliers. But what are the differences? Unfortunately, the breakdown of the additive composition is not as easy to interpret as a chemical layperson might assume. “A lot helps a lot” does not really apply, but the reverse is also not permissible. Very roughly simplified, one can say that calcium, magnesium and boron are mainly used as detergents and dispersants, that is, they take care of keeping lubricated surfaces clean and keeping dirt particles in suspension. Zinc, phosphorus and sulfur in turn serve to protect against wear. The crux of the matter: All additive components (and not all of them are mentioned in the FAQ and Oil Science chapters) interact with one another.

So if you have not just recently completed a chemistry degree, you can confidently concentrate on reading the conclusion and otherwise shop with peace of mind. There is no real outlier among the test participants, the fully synthetic freaks should discover their favorites very quickly, and the bargain hunters will also find what they are looking for. Okay, there is no suitable motorcycle oil for three euros, but less than ten euros per liter is quite feasible. Cold-pressed, however, does not work at all.

Castrol Grand Prix S.

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Castrol Grand Prix S. MOTORRAD verdict: very good.

Specification: 10W-40, semi-synthetic, API SG, JASO MA
Providers: Deutsche Castrol Vertriebsgesellschaft mbh, 22761 Hamburg; www.castrol.com/de
Price per liter (RRP / actually paid): in a 4-liter container 9.99 euros / 7.50 euros (special offer at Polo, Stuttgart)
viscosity (mm² / s): at 40 ° C: 86.55; at 100 ° C: 13.29; Viscosity index: 155
Additives: (mg / kg): Calcium: 1199, Magnesium: 741, Boron: 60, Zinc: 882, Phosphorus: 780, Molybdenum: 45, Sulfur: 4490
Additional tests: BN (mgKOH / g): 10.35; Sulphated ash (wt%): 0.81

Conclusion: The special bottling for polo (also available as “Grand Prix” at Louis) has the age-old specification API SG. Probably also to differentiate them from the more expensive Castrol premium products. The additives are not ultra-modern, but completely okay and suitable for motorcycles – top quality at a (Castrol) competitive price

MOTORRAD verdict: very good

Castrol Power 1 4T

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Castrol Power 1 4T. MOTORRAD verdict: very good.

Specification: 10W-40, semi-synthetic, API SJ, JASO MA2
Providers: Deutsche Castrol Vertriebsgesellschaft mbh, 22761 Hamburg; www.castrolmoto.com
Price per liter (RRP / actually paid): 16.95 euros / 16.50 euros (at Polo, Stuttgart)
viscosity (mm² / s): at 40 ° C: 85.93; at 100 ° C: 13.44; Viscosity index: 159
Additives (mg / kg): Calcium: 1233, Magnesium: 765, Boron: 63, Zinc: 903, Phosphorus: 795, Molybdenum: 46, Sulfur: 4454
Additional tests: BN (mgKOH / g): 10.72; Sulphated ash (wt%): 0.89

Conclusion: If you look at the infrared spectrum of the “Power 1” and the “Castrol Grand Prix S” (see left), you will see: very, very similar. A rogue who thinks marketing. According to Castrol, the products have very different additives, of course. Is clear. The same applies here: a top oil, not quite as cheap.

MOTORRAD verdict: very good.

Castrol Power 1 Racing

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The MOTORRAD test winner: Castrol Power 1 Racing. MOTORRAD verdict: very good.

Specification: 10W-40, fully synthetic, API SL, JASO MA2
Providers: Deutsche Castrol Vertriebsgesellschaft mbh, 22761 Hamburg; www.castrolmoto.com
Price per liter (RRP / actually paid): 18.95 euros / 12.99 euros (special offer from Detlev Louis, Stuttgart)
viscosity (mm² / s): at 40 ° C: 86.53; at 100 ° C: 12.91; Viscosity Index: 148
Additives: (mg / kg): Calcium: 1197, Magnesium: 745, Boron: 66, Zinc: 880, Phosphorus: 769, Molybdenum: 43, Sulfur: 2446
Additional tests: BN (mgKOH / g): 10.43; Sulphated ash (wt%): 0.83

Conclusion: Here, too, the additive package looks somehow familiar – see “Grand Prix S” and “Power 1”. The lower sulfur content suggests that a higher quality base oil is involved. The result is a recipe perfectly matched for motorcycle use and the test victory.

MOTORRAD verdict: very good.

eleven Moto 4 Road

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Shell Advance AX7. MOTORRAD verdict: good.

Specification: 10W-40, semi-synthetic, API SL, JASO MA2
Providers: Shell Germany Oil GmbH, 22335 Hamburg; www.shell.com
Price per liter (RRP / actually paid): 15.95 euros / 15.99 euros (at Shell, Stuttgart)
viscosity (mm2 / s): at 40 ° C: 94.69; at 100 ° C: 14.59; Viscosity index: 160
Additives: (mg / kg): Calcium: 2606, Magnesium: 11, Boron: 78, Zinc: 976, Phosphorus: 852, Molybdenum: 1, Sulfur: 6679
Additional tests: BN (mgKOH / g): 11.31; Sulphated ash (wt%): 1.06

Conclusion: The dynamic packaging shouldn’t deceive you: it probably doesn’t contain a very modern oil. Should we possibly be sold the good old VSX4 with a new name? The base oil technology is quite up-to-date, but unfortunately no motorcycle oil comes out of it, rather diesel car oil.

MOTORRAD verdict: Good.

Conclusion

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The first step when changing the oil: drain the old oil.

	viscosity	Additives	Additional tests	total	MOTORRAD verdict *	Price per liter in euros
maximum number of points	30th	35	35	100
Castrol Power 1 Racing	30th	32	33	95	very good	18.95
Castrol Power 1 4T	30th	30th	34	94	very good	16.95
Motul 5000 4T	30th	32	32	94	very good	11.75
Castrol Grand Prix S.	30th	28	34	92	very good	9.99
eleven Moto 4 Road	30th	30th	32	92	very good	15.75
Motul 300V Factory Line	30th	29	32	91	very good	19.95
Procycle motor oil	30th	25th	32	87	very good	8.99
Performance 4T	30th	23	32	85	very good	8.95
Racing Dynamic ViscOil 4T	30th	23	32	85	very good	8.99
JMC engine oil 4T GP	30th	22nd	31	83	Good	8.54
HEM motorcycle oil	30th	20th	31	81	Good	12.99
Rowe Formula 4-T TS-Z	30th	20th	31	81	Good	7.39
Shell Advance AX7	30th	18th	33	81	Good	15.95
eni i ride	30th	17th	33	80	Good	12.49

* 100 to 85 points = very good; 84 to 70 points = good; 69 to 55 points = satisfactory; 54 to 40 points = sufficient; 39 to 0 points = unsatisfactory

Conclusion

Surprises and scandals? Nothing. The tested products offer consistently good and very good quality. The promised viscosity is fulfilled by everyone; in terms of base number (BN) and sulphated ash content – summarized under “additional tests” – there are also no outliers. If anything, oil experts discern differences in the additives, and infrared spectroscopy allows inter alia. certain statements about whether high-quality base oils are used in the product and whether the oil was developed very specifically for motorcycle use. The seven first placed play in the top class; it is followed by a solid midfield that can also be recommended without hesitation. The three last placed also deliver decent quality, but are not very “typical of a motorcycle”.

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Oleology

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Should always be replaced when changing the oil: the filter.

Wet sump lubrication is standard on four-stroke motorcycles today, but dry sump lubrication is still justified for certain purposes. Here is some basic knowledge about the advantages and disadvantages of both systems.

Dry sump lubrication

Supervision of the dry sump lubrication.

The schematic diagram clearly shows the advantages and disadvantages of this system. In direct comparison to wet sump lubrication, the lower overall height of the oil pan is noticeable, which increases the ground clearance – a great advantage for enduro bikes or tall engines (Harley-Davidson V2). Thanks to the compact oil tank, which is often provided with baffles, the oil is reliably available for lubrication even with high g-forces (acceleration, braking).

A second pump is required to suck up the oil from the small oil pan and transport it to the oil tank. When entering the oil tank, it is advantageous if the oil jet is swirled and thereby loosens air bubbles from the oil. The return pump (1) must deliver a significantly higher delivery rate than the pressure pump (2). This is the only way to ensure that the oil tank is sufficiently refilled in all speed ranges and that the pressure pump cannot suck in air. If the oil tank is placed above the engine housing, the oil seeps out of the tank via the oil pressure pump into the engine when the tank is idle for a long time, which is why the driver’s manuals for checking the oil level describe a certain, often somewhat more complex procedure.

Wet sump lubrication

Supervision of the wet sump lubrication

All that is required here is a pressure pump that sucks the oil out of the large and deeply set oil pan (yellow) and presses it to the lubrication points with a pressure of around 3.5 bar (red circuit). The oil is stored at the bottom of the engine, which significantly increases the overall height. If the oil pan and thus the oil level were installed too high, the crankshaft and clutch would transform the lubricant into a foamy emulsion of air and oil, which of course would drastically impair the cooling and lubricating effect.

While on motorcycles when cornering, the oil hardly escapes to the side due to the inclined position, in four-wheeled vehicles it is pushed to the outer wall of the oil pan due to the high centrifugal forces, which in long curves can cause a breakdown of the oil circuit and thus the lubrication due to insufficient oil level. With motorcycles, it becomes critical when the driver does long wheelies in a strong position and the oil shifts from the oil pan to the rear of the engine housing. In contrast to the early 1970s, when motorcycle engines often had to struggle with insufficient lubrication of the distant camshaft bearings (1) after a cold start, nowadays powerful oil pumps and sophisticated lubrication systems also reliably supply these bearing points with oil.

Engine oil change made easy – that’s how it works

Drain the old oil: To make the oil thinner, let the engine warm up or run for a few minutes. For better drainage, remove the filler plug, then open the drain plug (at the bottom of the engine) and collect the oil.

Filter change: The filter should always be replaced when changing the oil. Before installing the new cartridge filter, lightly (!) Coat the sealing ring with oil, then tighten it by hand and then with a torque wrench.

Fill in new oil: Insert the drain plug provided with a new sealing ring and tighten to the correct torque, do not jam, the thread is sensitive. Then fill in the amount of oil specified in the manual.

Control: Let the engine run for a short time so that the oil is distributed inside. Switch off the engine, wait about a minute, then check the oil level using the sight glass or dipstick according to regulations and correct if necessary.

FAQs about oil

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The most important information: viscosity (here 10W-40); the JASO specification (MA, MA1, MA2 – here JASO MA2) reveals that the oil is suitable for four-stroke motorcycles with an oil bath clutch; the API classification (here SL) should be between SG and SN.

That is often asked

The phrase “talking about gasoline” is actually completely out of the ordinary. “Talking about oil” would be much more appropriate, because discussions about lubricants are one of the most popular round table topics when motorcyclists talk about technology. Or when they request greasy answers from their trusted motorcycle magazine. The most common oil questions can be found here in quick succession:

Are motorcycle oils different from car oils??

You should at least be different, because the requirements are very different. Motorcycle engines usually achieve very high liter outputs and require much higher speeds than car engines and also get hotter. Air-cooled motorcycle engines in particular put more stress on the oil than almost exclusively water-cooled car engines. In addition, in almost all motorcycles, the oil has to supply the gearbox and clutch and is exposed to strong, shear loads. High-performance car engine oils are completely unsuitable for motorcycles, as they can contain additives that change the friction behavior of the oil bath clutches in such a way that damage can occur.

Synthetic oils are better?

Not basically. A great mineral oil can do more than a mediocre synthetic oil. High-quality synthetic oils are clearly superior to mineral oils. They are more thermally resilient, age less and ensure cleaner engines. The wear protection is also better.

Can mineral oils be mixed with synthetic oils??

Yes, all engine oils must be mixable with one another. However, the performance characteristics of the mixed product change towards the lower quality oil, i.e. mineral oil.

Does the oil paint say something about the quality?

No, because if the new lubricant turns dark brown shortly after the oil change, this only shows that the oil is doing its job, namely keeping the dirt in suspension and preventing deposits. In addition, when the oil is changed, there are always a few milliliters of used oil in the engine, which mixes with the fresh oil and immediately turns it dark.

Ages oil during the winter break?

Yes and no, of course every oil that comes into contact with oxygen ages, but a service life of up to a year is no problem for a fresh oil. You should therefore change the oil before the winter break. Fresh oil in a closed, frost-proof canister can be stored for up to three years in closed rooms without UV light – at least that’s the recommendation of the Castrol oil experts.

An annual oil change is also recommended if the annual mileage is significantly below the maintenance interval?

Absolutely, especially when the few kilometers have come together with many cold starts and short-haul operations. This means that even oils with low mileage may have reached the end of their power reserves. The oil change required by some motorcycle manufacturers annually and regardless of the mileage is therefore definitely justified.

Do you still have to warm up modern engines??

Yes, that’s better, because engine oil only “works” from around 50 degrees, and the running clearance of the mechanics only has the correct value at operating temperature. It can take 30 seconds and more under wintry conditions until the oil has reached the last engine angle. But even in summer temperatures it makes sense and is gentler on the material in the long run to cover at least the first five kilometers with a maximum of half-throttle.

What is the value of the oil control lamp?

A completely overrated. When it lights up, it is often too late. Regular classic oil level checks are irreplaceable.

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Product test: engine oil

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Product test: engine oil